100% Chardonnay from the prime, Grand Cru villages of Cramant, Oger and Mesnil sur Oger, the 10 years it spent gently maturing on its lees has imparted a finesse of mousse and intensity of flavour that are captivating.
With a fine, toasty, lemon-scented bouquet, the palate is tightly knit, rich and full of energy, the mousse being mouth-coating and creamily textured. Pull the cork on this now to enjoy it at its most vivacious, fragrant and uplifting; cellar some bottles for 5 years for to allow the body to broaden and the layers of flavour to emerge.
A great example of how large yields do not necessarily mean poor quality in Champagne. As a reaction to the previous year's low yields, the vines produced one of the largest crops on record. The growing season proceeded without major difficulties but the bumper crop called for bud thinning. August brought about cooler weather and some rains, increasing the risk of rot. The massive crop, averaging 13,990 kg/ha, was picked from September 18th onwards. The quality was a pleasant surprise; vibrant wines with appropriate intensity, refined charm and refreshing lightness. This vintage impresses me more and more, and I feel tempted to give it the full five stars. It comes with a rare balance of freshness, lightness, yet fine aromatic intensity. Post-release, this vintage has proven to be slow to age, and elegant wines are likely to keep on ageing gracefully. Dom Pérignon and Louis Roederer Cristal both excelled.