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Wine Description
The Story
The Corton and Corton-Charlemagne vineyards are situated in one single block, though they straddle the notional border between Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. They stretch between ‘En Charlemagne’, next to Pernand-Vergelesses, and ‘Le Charlemagne’, towards Aloxe-Corton. To have a plot of vines of this size in one contiguous block is unusual in the extreme, but that it should be the original plot, owned by the Emperor Charlemagne, is absolutely extraordinary.
Bonneau du Martray’s Corton-Charlemagne is a difficult wine to describe. This is particularly true when it is young. It can take a decade before it will say something more than “Stony. Wait.” But even with age it does not bloom in the same manner as the Montrachets do. In a way, it tastes like theoretical astronomy: we know that black matter exists, we can sense it, but we have no manifest proof of it. It’s a very beautiful agony.
In Making Sense of Burgundy, the best modern prose written about Burgundy, Matt Kramer is similarly cryptic: “Corton-Charlemagne is a wine of texture. It should give the sensation of heaviness without actually being heavy. Each mouthful is its own universe of flavor, never capable of being fully explored… Although Chardonnay has proven the ideal vehicle, one is not drinking Chardonnay with Corton-Charlemagne: One is drinking terroir.”
Even Jean-Charles, who has been at the domaine for every harvest but one since 1969, struggles to explain the mystery of his vineyard. “Something in Corton-Charlemagne fills your palate, but it changes very quickly into something impalpable. What is it made of? It’s difficult to qualify. It doesn’t saturate, it doesn’t blanket, nothing occupies a space of overt power, yet, at the same time, it is incredibly intense. It’s a very real sensation, but it doesn’t fit with the usual descriptions of wine… It is equally as impressive as the Montrachets. But it is of a different order.”
For lack of words, Jean-Charles has turned to painting: “Montrachet reminds me of Veronese: sumptuous, full, but at the same time balanced. Rubens comes to mind for Bâtard-Montrachet: the sensuality. But when I think of Corton-Charlemagne I have to go to a very different place. I find that Vermeer expresses it perfectly. His subjects are modest, nothing really: a girl with a turban, a woman reading a letter. And what is revelatory is only the light. That’s what is happening, I think, in Corton-Charlemagne.”
There’s more to it than analogy. With its west-facing slopes, Corton-Charlemagne is actually —physically— a wine born of unusual light. “I don’t know what effect it has on the vines”, Jean-Charles says, “but they function by photosynthesis. If they are getting good light, there’s a good chance that they are responding sympathetically.”
Vintage 2000
The 2000 vintage in Burgundy, France, is generally considered a very good to excellent vintage for both red and white wines. It was a year marked by favorable weather conditions, which allowed grapes to ripen well and produced wines with good structure and aging potential. Here are some key characteristics of the Burgundy wine vintage 2000:
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Quality: The 2000 vintage is highly regarded in Burgundy and is often praised for its overall quality. It is considered one of the standout vintages of the early 21st century.
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Weather Conditions: The weather in 2000 was characterized by a warm and dry growing season, which was particularly beneficial for grape ripening. This allowed for optimal maturity and concentration of flavors.
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Red Burgundy: Pinot Noir is the primary grape variety for red Burgundy wines, and in 2000, it produced wines with ripe fruit flavors, balanced acidity, and good tannin structure. These wines are known for their elegance and finesse.
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White Burgundy: Chardonnay is the dominant grape for white Burgundy wines, and in 2000, it yielded wines with good acidity, freshness, and a balance of citrus and mineral notes. White Burgundies from this vintage have aging potential.
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Aging Potential: Both red and white Burgundies from the 2000 vintage have shown good aging potential. Many of these wines have evolved gracefully and can still be enjoyable today.
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Availability: While some of the top Grand Cru and Premier Cru Burgundies from 2000 may be scarce and expensive, there are still excellent village-level and lesser-known producers' wines available that offer value and quality.
Overall, the Burgundy wine vintage 2000 is remembered for producing wines that showcase the elegance and terroir-driven character for which Burgundy is known. It remains a sought-after vintage among wine enthusiasts and collectors.
Here are some of the top Burgundy wines from the 2000 vintage, though availability may vary:
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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC): DRC is one of the most prestigious producers in Burgundy, and their wines, including Romanée-Conti and La Tâche, are highly sought after and regarded as some of the best in the world. The 2000 vintage from DRC is exceptional.
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Domaine Leroy: Leroy is another renowned producer known for producing exceptional Burgundy wines. Their 2000 vintage wines, particularly those from vineyards like Richebourg and Romanée-Saint-Vivant, are highly regarded.
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Domaine Armand Rousseau: This producer consistently creates outstanding wines, and their 2000 vintage Clos de la Roche and Chambertin are among the top choices.
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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé: Their Musigny wines from the 2000 vintage are often praised for their elegance and complexity.
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Domaine Georges Roumier: The 2000 Bonnes-Mares from Georges Roumier is highly regarded for its concentration and structure.
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Domaine Dujac: Dujac's wines from the 2000 vintage, including Clos de la Roche and Clos Saint-Denis, are known for their finesse and balance.
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Maison Louis Jadot: Jadot produces a range of Burgundy wines, and their 2000 vintage offerings, particularly from the top Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards, are worth exploring.
Remember that the availability of these wines may be limited, and prices can vary significantly depending on the producer, vineyard, and current market conditions. It's advisable to consult with wine specialists, retailers, or collectors to find specific bottles and recommendations based on your preferences and budget. Additionally, personal taste plays a significant role in wine appreciation, so what is considered the "best" can vary from person to person.