x
  • Decanting time

    -
  • When to drink

    2020-2035

The Story

The flagship grape of Austria, Grüner Veltliner is a natural cross of Traminer and St. Georgen. Grüner accounts for almost 30% of all grapes planted with around 13,500 hectares under vine in the country. The Austrian native has become an international sensation amongst sommeliers worldwide as the perfect food wine due to its high acidity. In Austria it is prized for the easy drinking wine it produces but can also wow the palate with complexity in the right winemaker’s hands.

Knoll’s Vinothekfüllung bottling combines selected fruit from their Kreutles, Loibenberg, and Kellerberg plantings of Grüner Veltliner, resulting in a particularly intense, earthy expression of Austria’s favorite grape.

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Written Notes

This reflects an upper area of Loibenberg whose vines were left hanging until last and picked up some botrytis, perhaps in part on account of the proximity to humidity-trapping woods. It conveys a wonderful sense of richness, yet with the fresh juiciness and subtly cooling herbal inflections that are features of so many 2016s, as well as fruit pit piquancy supplying welcome counterpoint to succulent, ripe white peach and mango. Just as strikingly, this entire performance seems to be headily draped in wisteria. Not only is there abundant glycerol on the palate, but there is also underlying polish, botrytis having worked its charms stealthily and with restraint. A sweet-saline, iodine-laced evocation of lobster-shell reduction lends mouthwatering savor to the superbly sustained finish. This blows past the corresponding 2015 – though not in the sense of being more powerful. I sometimes find the designation “Vinothek bottling” misleading in that the Knolls’ wines so labeled often strike me as significantly less suited to long-term cellaring than other wines from this estate. But in the present instance I have no such reservations.

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Information

Origin

Unter-Loiben, Wachau

Other wines from this producer

Grüner Veltliner Auslese

Grüner Veltliner “Kreutles” Smaragd

Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibenberg

Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Schutt

Grüner Veltliner Vinothekfüllung Smaragd

Kreutles Gruner Veltliner Smaragd

Loibner Riesling Federspiel

Loibner Riesling ‘Vinothekfullung’ Smaragd

Pfaffenberg Riesling Selection

Riesling “Kellerberg” Smaragd

Riesling “Schütt” Smaragd

Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese

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