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In our Tokaj vineyards harvesting begins at the end of October or latest by mid-November and is divided into two distinct operations. The vines grow on volcanic soils very rich in minerals.
First the mature botrytized shriveled grapes (‘aszú’ in Hungarian) are handpicked one by one off the vine. Afterwards, the less botrytized clusters are harvested whole. After fermentation, wine (and base wine) is placed into 136 liter barrels, known as ‘...
When I read my note of the first impression of this wine – the smell of roast cabbage – I wondered if I should keep it. Most people would do a double take and think, 'ugh'. But the smell of roast cabbage can be delicious: the Maillard reaction giving it savoury, caramelised sweet-vegetal notes. And in this case, this is what I mean. Not the usual 'apricot jam' Tokaj sweet. This has savoury layers, like dark golden buttery pastry, baklava, roast macadamia nuts. All undercut by an intense, scythe-sharp lemon syrup. Great thrust of fruit on the finish.
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