Chardonnay 2017

From Shaw + Smith’s prospective project to consistent quality wine in the space of just a few vintages – the Tolpuddle Vineyard has come a long long way. The Chardonnay, in particular, is so very good every year that I could just phone in the review for a new vintage and then finish my beer. High scores, thanks for coming,

Actually, the biggest improvement has been seen in the Pinot Noir. Some of the early vintages looked a bit herbal and hard, but the ’17 is anything but. Evolution in practice.

The only odd thing about this pair is the price difference. Why is the Pinot $10 more per bottle? Is it because of the trophy win and the 98 point score?

Last year’s wine was exquisitely pure and finessed, this years version is bolder, with less whipped butter and more butterscotch. It’s probably a better wine too. Complexity is the key – a second glass gives a mandarin tang and the oak is cleverly understated, with a medium bodied, delicate, acid-shaped style that takes more from Chablis than Montrachet (sorry for the French benchmark cliche), Again, a perfectly formed cool climate Chardonnay of the top echelon (and so refreshing), if still a little on the lean side.

Best drinking: I’d prefer to drink it next year, when that sprightly acid folds in more. Then it will hold for at least five years after, probably more. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13%, $73. Would I buy it? 1er Cru quality Chardonnay, for half the price. A no-brainer.