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Viinin Kuvailu
The Story
This parcel was planted in three different stages, the oldest by Auguste Morey, the next by Pierre Morey and the third by Dominique Lafon. Very well situated in the upper part of 'Les Charmes', the last vines at the south of the appellation next to ' Puligny Combettes'. It faces due east, is relatively deep clay and limestone (argilo-calcaire) with very crumbly rock deep down. The grapes ripen well and the wines are always powerful though never falling into the heavy wine bracket. Production is even, between 40 and 50 hl, accidents excepted
| Appellation | Meursault Charmes Premier Cru |
| Parcel | Charmes du Dessus |
| Exposure | East |
| Surface area | 1 ha 71 ares |
| Gradient | 0 à1% |
| Plantation dates | 1946, 1963, 1996 |
| Rootstock | 161-49 |
| Graft | Mass selection and clones (CL 117, 95, 119, 124, 548) |
Wine Information
Lafon Vintage 1990
The Weather
A very mild winter, vegetation started very early (March) followed by cold weather in April which slowed down growth . There was a risk of frost in the spring but there were no problems after all. Fruit set was very heavy, which forced us to remove part of the crop in the spring. Flowering went reasonably well and we discovered a lot of millerandage when it came to harvest-time, (Perrières, Genevrières, Charmes, Montrachet, Santenots, Santenots, Champans). No sanitary problems throughout the entire period. Summer was very dry, probably the driest over the last three years: no rain from 15/07 to 30/08. Botrytis presented no problem. At the end of August the excessive drought blocked ripening. Fortunately, 3 consecutive days of rain, followed by continuous sunshine up until the harvest started vegetation up again. Grapes were healthy on the eve of the harvest
The Harvest
It started on September 18th for the reds and September 21st for the whites. The entire period was sunny and the harvest lasted quite a long time (until September 28th). Despite the presence of millerandage and the fact that we had reduced the number of grapes, yield was extremely high:
* 50 to 55 hl/ha for whites (except Montrachet 30 hl/ha)
* 40 to 45 hl/ha for reds
The analyses were superb, 13° to a potential 13.7° for both reds and whites with acidities even better than in 1989.
Vinification
Presented no problems in particular. Fermentation was regular but not too fast (temperature controlled). No chaptalization was necessary.
Charmes
This parcel was planted in three different stages, the oldest by Auguste Morey, the next by Pierre Morey and the third by Dominique Lafon.
Very well situated in the upper part of 'Les Charmes', the last vines at the south of the appellation next to ' Puligny Combettes'. It faces due east, is relatively deep clay and limestone (argilo-calcaire) with very crumbly rock deep down. The grapes ripen well and the wines are always powerful though never falling into the heavy wine bracket. Production is even, between 40 and 50 hl, accidents excepted
Appellation Meursault Charmes Premier Cru
Parcel Charmes du Dessus
Exposure East
Surface area 1 ha 71 ares
Gradient 0 à1%
Plantation dates 1946, 1963, 1996
Rootstock 161-49
Graft Mass selection and clones (CL 117, 95, 119, 124, 548)
The Wines
The reds are superb, the colour intense and true, the degrees around 13.5, the pH before malo around 3.30, the total acidity 4.90 which should bring us up to a pH of around 3.45 and to a total acidity of 3.80 to 4.00g at the end of malo. The tannins are high in quantity but very fine. They seem to be very balanced with a lovely density, definitely destined to be another great vintage, a little softer than in 1988 and 1989.
The whites are difficult to assess at this stage. The degrees are around 13.5 pH, and a 3.20 pH before malo with a total acidity of 4.90. When malo ends the wines should be around 3.30 pH with an acidity of 4.00g, which is better than in 1989. The wines have a lovely density and one would assess that 1990 will be somewhere between 1988 and 1999.
Text written 21th July, 1992
MEURSAULT PERRIERES 1990 From 40 year old vines, an exceptionally high but regular yield this year: i.e.: all the vines had grapes and these lovely clusters were constituted of small, very ripe and very healthy, golden berries, with a good acidity. This, therefore, explains the very high quality of this vintage in spite of the high yield. Ageing in new barrels until the first racking (April 1991), returned to older barrels, a second racking in April 1992 followed by fining and bottling without filtering (July 1992).At present this wine is a superb golden colour and the nose is typical of a Meursault which has reached maturity (toasted bread and hazelnut). On the palate it provides great power and fleshiness sustained by good acidity. Perfect to accompany some shellfish or white meat flavoured with truffles!
Vuosikerta 1989
1989 VINTAGE in Burgundy
Weather conditions were exceptional which led to a notably early harvest with perfectly ripened grapes in both colours. The reds with their velvety tannins have a fine colour, showing softer more elegant tendencies than the 88?s. They make a wonderful choice to drink on a special occasion. The whites in general were very precocious; ripe, powerful, rich, generous and well rounded; most should already have been drunk but the Grand Crus are superb for drinking now and over the next few years.
As regards the style of the 1989's, we now have one or two general impressions. The white wines are of great class. The Chardonnay in Burgundy has produced wines with ripe, powerful aromas and rich, generous body tending, in certain cases, almost to unctuosity. Initial comparisons have been drawn with 1971 and perhaps 1964.
The ripening of the Pinot Noir crop was somewhat hindered in several areas by unexpectedly large quantities of second generation grapes and extremely dry conditions. The resulting natural sugar levels were slightly lower than the recent yardstick year, 1985, but the fruit was in perfect condition. Overall quality will be good to very good.
The red wines have fine, deep colour and quite vinous, concentrated fruity aromas. They are well constituted and round and should be capable of ageing well. Initial comparisons have been drawn with 1966 and 1979.
In the Beaujolais, the Gamay has yielded powerful, fleshy wines lacking perhaps the charm of textbook Beaujolais. The wines are reminiscent of the 1978's.
