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Wine Description
The Story
Formerly named Château Laville Haut-Brion, Château La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc is produced in such extremely limited quantities that it is confined to the initiated. Its make-up almost 85% of Semillon, 14% Sauvignon Blanc and a pinch of Muscadelle ? also makes it unique. When young it possesses the characteristics of a premier Gewurztraminer. With time it trades its Alsatian color for the amber of the great Sauterne wines. Then this dry white wine expresses all the particular traits of a great syrupy Graves wine that are specific to the Semillon grown in famous terroirs.
More details
Surface area planted: 2.55 hectares (6.30 acres)
Planted grape varieties: 85% Sémillon, 14% Sauvignon Blanc, 1% Muscadelle
Fermentation in oak casks
Length of initial maturing period in oak casks: 9-12 months in 40-50% new wood
Average production: 500 to 700 cases
Wine Information
Winter was marked by relatively low temperatures and heavy rainfall. Budbreak occurred in mid-March. The rainy weather and rather warm days encouraged the vine to grow continuously, at a frantic pace. The teams had to be on the alert, relentlessly observing the vineyard to prevent any risk of disease and to be able to step in rapidly. The advantageous position of the vineyard, where air circulates well, which limits the length of time leaves retain moisture and the constant watchfulness of the winegrowers in the vineyard made it possible to prevent the development of diseases, in particular mildew, the pressure of which was extremely intense.
Flowering and then the formation of clusters occurred in excellent conditions, promising an abundant harvest of grapes. Throughout the whole season, green work, so necessary in this year, was stepped up. In half of the vineyard, leaf-thinning was done on the sunrise side. Green harvests were increased, whereas trimming was restricted to maintain the coolness of the soils and to protect the grapes from the risk of sunscald damage, by enabling them to benefit from the shade provided. Harvests of white grapes began on 24th August, in sweltering heat. As in previous years, the grapes were only picked in the morning and transported in refrigerated vehicles, to protect the aroma precursors.
This special care was combined with meticulous sorting in the vineyard and on arrival at the vat house. The first juices of white grapes promised a fresh vintage, with lovely crisp liveliness. Harvests of red grapes started on 6th September, in good weather conditions, although very hot. The grapes were ripe and concentrated for all the varieties, with an abundance in phenolic compounds rarely seen before and a very good content of sugar. As for the juices, they were fresh and fruity. The bountiful harvest stretched out over 20 days for all of the plots and in weather conditions that remained summery.
Vintage 2023
Challenges and triumphs: the 2023 vintage in Bordeaux
The Bordeaux wine region has long been revered for its exceptional wines, shaped by a delicate dance between nature and human skill. However, the 2023 vintage was proof of the resilience and adaptability of winegrowers in the face of difficult weather conditions. From the relentless weather conditions to the current activity in the vineyards in November, this year has been a rollercoaster ride for Bordeaux winemakers.
One of the most important events that shaped the 2023 vintage was the unpredictable weather. Unpredictability prevailed: early warmth was followed by atypical cold spells, accompanied by sporadic and often intense rainfall. There were several periods of frost during the budding period, a danger that sent shivers down the spines of the winegrowers. Spring frosts, especially after the first budding, can be devastating for the sensitive vines and affect the yield and possibly also the quality of the grapes.
The summer months brought with them a number of challenges. Unusual heat waves and prolonged drought put the vineyards under additional stress. A lack of water can affect the quality and yield of the grapes, which can lead to smaller berries and an imbalance between sugar and acid content. But the winegrowers in Bordeaux have always been resilient and have used their expertise to adapt to these adversities.
There has been much speculation and hope about the quality of the 2023 harvest in the Bordeaux region. Despite the stormy weather conditions, we are cautiously optimistic about the overall quality of our harvest. Initial tastings and assessments suggest that the grapes that have weathered the storms, while yielding less, show promising complexity, concentration and a balance of sugar and acidity – a possible testament to the craftsmanship and expertise - a vintage that could surprise with its quality and character.
Suckling, the first major critic to publish his views on Bordeaux 2023 vintage, is ebullient about the quality of the vintage. "In many ways, I like them better than many of the highly touted 2022s", he begins, "because they are so Bordeaux in their nature with their tensioned mouthfeels and energetic finishes. Many 2022s are very powerful and rich, highlighting the extremely hot and dry grape-growing conditions of the vintage. Some are almost international in their essence."
According to Suckling several senior chateau prefer 2023 to the widely celebrated 2022s, including L'Eglise Clinet's Noemie Durantou Reilhac, whilst Pierre-Oliver Clouet sees 2023 as "much more Cheval Blanc".
Like Jane Anson, he also notes that this is a heterogeneous vintage that favours "top terroirs and top winemakers", where you can find "terrific-quality wines, but they are different than 2022. I would compare these 2023s to 2019 or 2001 – even 1990 – for their freshness and balance of ripe fruit."
Suckling's top scoring wines include Canon (99-100), Le Pin (99-100) & Pavie (99-100), whilst value picks include Haut-Brisson (95-96) and de Ferrand (94-95).