x
  • Country ranking ?

    863
  • Producer ranking ?

    7
  • Decanting time

    2h
  • When to drink

    2020-2035

The Story

Unlike most Burgundian estates, whether they have been bottling for a number of decades or only embarked on this path recently, the Domaine Dujac is a recent creation. It dates from 1968. Jacques Seysses, the founder, is in his early 70s, and has now taken a back seat in favour of his sons Jeremy and Alec and Jeremy's wife Diana, a trained wine chemist (oenologue). They have been working as a trio now for a few vintages. Have things changed? Should we expect more radical differences in the wines to come compared with the Dujacs of old? I went up to Morey-Saint-Denis to find out.

 

In the Morey-Saint-Denis appellation, Clos Saint-Denis is sandwiched between Clos de la Roche to the north and Clos des Lambrays to the south.

The Clos Saint-Denis vineyard is divided among four Lieux-dits: Clos Saint Denis 2.18 ha (5.4 acres); Calouere 1.29 ha (3.2 acres); Les Chaffots 1.33 ha (3.3 acres) and Maison Brulee 1.82 ha (4.5 acres) and is centered at about 951 feet in elevation. It is one of 5 Grand Cru vineyards in the appellation. Only Pinot Noir is planted.

Around 1015, Lord Humbert de Vergy, a rich landowner, took holy orders and later became the Bishop of Paris. In 1023, he founded a Canons Chapter in his castle in Vergy where he had a little church built in honor of Saint Denis, the first bishop of Paris. In 1609, the Canons were granted by Nuits-Saint-Georges to build constructions in the surroundings of the Notre-Dame Chapel. They constructed Clos Saint-Denis.

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Written Notes

This was the second time that I have had a magnum of 1985 Dujac Clos St. Denis this year, one in HK and now one in NY. It is easy to see why I spend so much time in these two cities. My first comments were ‘wow again, fabulous nose, see JAN HK notes.’ This magnum was served a bit colder and was not quite as opulent as in HK, but its aromatics slowly unveiled and revealed an S on its chest, just the same. Leather, zip, sauce and a hint of September marked this long, fine and superb red (97M).
  • 97p

The one “Clos St. Denis” outlier we had here, you have soy, cherry, some sous bois and nutmeg on the enticing nose. You get the bigger St. Denis aromatic flair here, and the softer silkier enticements on the palate opening. Plums first, then chocolate, laced with spices, relatively full without any undue weight, nicely enlivening acidity, clear soil signature, finesse and harmony throughout. Past the mid palate, its relative lightness dueling in palate perception with the flood of Clos de la Roche, there is nevertheless a lovely ethereal, licorice-touched textural beauty, with delicious sweetness on the nicely lingering finish. 94 Points

  • 94p

Medium-full colour. Fully mature. Aromatic nose. Fresh and concentrated. But gamey nonetheless. A fullish wine which is a little less fresh and has a little less acidity than the 1990. But it is sweeter and more seductive. Splendidly classy and harmonious. Very lovely.

 

Information

Origin

Morey Saint Denis, Burgundy

Other wines from this producer

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers

Charmes-Chambertin

Clos-de-la-Roche

Echézeaux

Gevrey-Chambertin aux Combottes

Marc de Bourgogne

Morey Saint-Denis Aligoté

Morey-Saint-Denis Les Monts Luisants

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes

Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts

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