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  • Country ranking ?

    436
  • Producer ranking ?

    2
  • Decanting time

    2h
  • When to drink

    Now

The Story

Of all the villages of the Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis is one of the most fruitful in terms of the number of its Grands Crus. The Clos de Tart, which remains a solely-held entity, was founded by the Cistercians of Tart in 1141. Since that date, it has been owned by only three families. The Clos Saint-Denis came on the scene in the 11th century, thanks to the fortress of Vergy. The Clos de la Roche and Clos des Lambrays are both semi-monopoles and both have long histories which have involved some adjustment of boundaries between Climats. The Clos de la Roche and Clos Saint-Denis were awarded their Grand Cru appellations on 8 December 1936, Clos de Tart on 4 January 1939, and Clos des Lambrays 27 April 1981.
Facing east or slightly south of east at around 250 metres above sea-level, these Climats may be seen as a southerly extension of the Grands Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin. First comes the Clos de la Roche, then Clos Saint-Denis followed by Clos des Lambrays, and finally Clos de Tart leading to Bonnes-Mares.

 

Limestone dominates in the Clos de la Roche where the soil is barely 30 cm deep with few pebbles but with large boulders which give the climat its name. In the Clos de Tart, scree-derived soils 40-120 cm thick cover the underlying limestone. The Upper part of the Clos des Lambrays is marly with claylimestone soil further down. The Clos Saint-Denis at the foot of the slope has pebble-free brown limestone soils which contain phosphorus (like Chambertin) and clay (like Musigny). 

Diversity is to be expected as each Grand Cru has its own personality. To the eye, this wine is plain ruby, sometimes a bit darker. Veiled in strawberry and violet, the Clos de Tart offers both robustness and charm. Quite tannic when young, it softens with age while gaining in complexity. The Clos des Lambrays is a true aristocrat, fully rounded in youth and with added depth and gravity as the years go by. The Clos Saint-Denis impresses by its finely–tuned nuances – this wine is the Mozart of the Côte de Nuits. The Clos de la Roche is firmer, deeper and more serious, closely akin to Chambertin. Aromas of humus and truffle are often precursors to notes of small red or black fruits. A small part of the BONNES-MARES appellation lies in this commune, but the greater part is in Chambolle-Musigny. (See Fact-sheet No. 5).

Intense and full-bodied when fully mature, these wines have a densely tannic texture and an aromatic richness which makes them a fitting - and equal - partner for feathered game. They are perfect, too, with a rib steak and, for lovers of Asian cuisine, adapt well to the aromatic intensity of glazed poultry. Their supple but virile tannins go well with veal (braised or in sauce) and with roast or braised lamb. One must also not forget their invaluable affinity for strong-flavoured soft-centred cheeses.

Serving temperatures : 12 to 13 °C for young wines, 15 to 16 °C for older wines.

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Written Notes

The 1978 Dujac Clos de la Roche was the best of the flight for me.  There was sweeter, purple fruit with many shades of that purple and a creamier personality.  There was nice earth to its finish, and while all three had this similarity, I found the sweetness and balance of the CdR superb and a notch up.  Its richness and length were stellar as well (98).

  • 98p

The bouquet is a delightful medley of Asian spices, soy, dark fruit, game and some autumn leaves. It has a ravishing “mouthfeel” and I can taste it still. Herbs, cedar, black cherry, potpourri, cloves, at the mid palate you are taken aback by the dance between fullness and elegance, depth, length and vibrancy abound. The bright core of acidity comes forth as it approaches its finale, notes of game, vivid dark fruit laced with cinnamon, pepper and some gently wafting smokiness, in the midst of the low yield driven intensity which is a signature of the vintage, all orchestrally marshaled: a simply stylish beguiling symphony on the palate. 97 Points+

  • 97p

Information

Origin

Morey Saint Denis, Burgundy

Other wines from this producer

Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers

Charmes-Chambertin

Clos St-Denis Grand Cru

Echézeaux

Gevrey-Chambertin aux Combottes

Marc de Bourgogne

Morey Saint-Denis Aligoté

Morey-Saint-Denis Les Monts Luisants

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes

Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts

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