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The Marchese's first vintages were not warmly received by critics, who were accustomed to the light, local wines made to be consumed by the March after harvest. Between 1948 and 1960, the vineyard's tiny yield of barely 2 hectolitres a year was either consumed only by the family or left forgotten in the cellar.
In the early 1960s, a few of the Marchese's well-versed colleagues tasted some of the older bottles. They expressed such enthusiast...