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  • Country ranking ?

    139
  • Producer ranking ?

    2
  • Decanting time

    10min
  • When to drink

    now
  • Food Pairing

    Enjoy without food

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Bollinger is to auction a 102-year-old bottle of 1914 Champagne at Sotheby’s in New York, part of a 600-strong collection of vintage cuvées discovered in a secret room within its labyrinth of cellars.

In 2010 Bollinger staff were clearing out their cellars in Aÿ when a rack of wines was removed from a darkened arch. Behind it the team was astonished to find a hidden room which had remained untouched and hidden for decades, containing around...

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The Story

The underground world of the House’s cellars reveals the full importance of time at Bollinger’s. After primary fermentation in small stainless steel or wooden casks the wine is bottled in the spring and taken down to rest in the pervading silence of the chalk cellars; Special Cuvée champagne will remain there for at least three years and vintage cuvees for much longer. It is this long period of rest that develops the extraordinarily delicate a...

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Wine Information

The final wine in our tasting was from 1914. “This was harvested by women and children,” Descôtes said, as the men of Ay had been mobilized for the start of World War I. The wine was amazingly fresh, like a fine Sauternes with a slight effervescence. (Champagne was sweeter back then.) More than any particular flavor, I tasted the anticipation and dread of a doomed generation, from a time when the Marne was still a river and not yet a battle, w...

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Tasting note

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Written Notes

Bollinger Vintage Champagne 1914 / One of the most impressive Champagnes I've come across. The color is still light and the mousse weak. The bouquet is hardly grand with its bready, chocolaty, slightly smoky preamble. On the other hand, the accelerating, stony, and immeasurably vigorous and dryly stringent palate is out of this world.

  • 98p

Until 1962 the name Renaudin (a local winemaker) was on all labels of Bollinger. Young Josef Bollinger was a salesman from Germany who married the daughter of Champagne nobleman Villermont. 
Orange, gingery, root vegetable – radish? Still wine! Amazing impact of fruit. Hardly any oxidation and hardly any mousse but still quite amazingly lively. Dosage just 5 g/l when it was ‘refreshed’ in the 1970s. Presumably at the time, when all the men when to war, it was picked by women? Tastes almost like a liqueur. So complete. Dry finish, but so beautiful! Light smokiness. Almost incredibly, it got better in the glass. What an experience to be lucky enough to taste this wine. But how on earth does one put a drinking window on this?!

  • 100p

Budding was average to good. Flowering was long, leading to serious coulure in some places. Average date of harvest in Champagne: 28 September. The quality was excellent. Average yield of the harvest was 2,200 kg/ha – very low. Wine comprised 23 crus, including principally: Bouzy (18%), Aÿ (11%), Verzenay (9%) and Cramant (9%). Disgorged in 1969 (during the restoration campaign of Madame Bollinger’s personal wine cellar) with a dosage of just 5 g/l.
Tasted blind. Deep, deep gold. Cardamom and sweet baking spice. Floral, honeysuckle notes – typical of the vintage according to Richard Juhlin (he must be one of the few people to be able to claim familiarity with this vintage). On the palate a spice-and-toast tertiary character but the most amazing freshness and silky viscous texture caressing the mouth. No noticeable mousse. More like a sweet wine in texture though the dosage is so low. A slight mintiness. Rich but so fresh. Lavender appears from nowhere, then apricot returns – these heady waves of flavour with such concentration. As it opens up in the glass, it becomes spicier still. Unspittable deliciousness. (JH)

  • 100p
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Information

Origin

Ay, Champagne

Vintage Quality

Excellent

Value For Money

Very good

Investment potential

Good

Fake factory

Be Cautious

Glass time

15min

Drinking temperature

8

Other wines from this producer

B13 Blanc de Noirs

Bollinger Collection

Bollinger Special Cuvée

Coteaux Champenois La Côte aux Enfants

La Côte aux Enfants

La Grande Année

La Grande Année rosé

PN TX 17

PN VZ15

PNVZ16

R.D. Bollinger

RD Collection

Rosé

Special Cuvée

Verzenay Réserve

Vieilles Vignes Françaises

Vieilles Vignes Francaises Collection

Vins Clairs Cramant Vinifié en Fût

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