x
  • Country ranking ?

    955
  • Producer ranking ?

    41
  • Decanting time

    45min
  • When to drink

    2020-2025

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The Story

Lying in the heart of one of Barolo’s most famous vineyard’s Cannubi in the village of Barolo, this small, traditional, 5th generation family-owned cantina (winery) dates back to 1897, and to Cavalier Francesco Borgogno. More recently it was his descendants, brothers Serio and Battista Borgogno who set about developing the cantina during the 1960s and ‘70s when the emphasis was largely on quantity not quality, buying in fruit/wine to fill their outsized winery. Today the baton has been passed to Serio’s daughters Anna (Bolla) and Paola (Boffa) and in turn their offspring Emanuela and Federica respectively. Anna’s husband Marco is making the wine, aided by Emanuela and since 2012 by enologo Luca Sarotto. These days the focus is increasingly on their vineyard holding of Cannubi, with plots facing south, north/east and west, while they continue to buy some fruit in for a separate white label range.
 
Vinification is traditional, fermenting in large wooden vats, before racking to Garbellotto and Veneto slavonian oak botte of up to 52hl for traditionally long affinamento/elevage. Bottling takes place without fining or filtering. They also release a long aged Riserva in good years.

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Latest Pro-tasting notes

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Written Notes

The Borgogno 2015 Barolo Cannubi is a low-key wine with a very low threshold for aromatic intensity. You can't just sell Cannubi on the reputation of the vineyard alone (I suppose you can, but this is not a long-term strategy) without making sure that yields and the overall winemaking philosophy is geared to making sacrifices. It is hard to understand why this wine from the well-received 2015 vintage falls short. It is one of the least intense wines from a vintage that was prized for just that: intensity. The wine ends with bitter and sour fruit.

Given the general excellence of both the 2015 and the 2016 vintages across the region, I am disappointed by these new releases from Borgogno. The estate's full name is Giacomo Borgogno & Figli, but the bottle label just reads Borgogno in big print, and that's the brand name I have used here. These new releases taste watery, muddled and over-cropped, falling short of my expectations.

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Information

Origin

Barolo, Piedmont

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