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Born out of the old the Clair-Dau estate, Bruno Clair’s wings are spread widely over the Côte d’Or covering nine appellations in total. Bruno, fi rst and foremost, is a vigneron and, with the help of winemaker Philippe Brun, produces some of Burgundy’s purest examples, adopting an approach that involves back-breaking vineyard work and minimal intervention winemaking, using a mixture of large old wooden foudres and smaller barriques for the long slow ageing process. The estate is renowned, in particular, for its excellent value Marsannays, stunning Gevreys and old vines Savigny Cuvées.
Difficult to see how this wine could be improved. It is as high-toned and vivid as ever combined with a generosity of fruit, without losing
its finesse and classicism. Sensational haunting, velvety flavours of victoria plum, damson and bright red cherry fruits. Very intense yet with nothing out of place. Stunning. One of Gevrey’s great Premiers Crus situated high up on the slope, many believe it to be more deserving of Grand Cru status than a number of Gevrey’s more dubious Grands Crus. This high situation and red clay-based soils make for wines of freshness, tension and well-defined structure.
2012 was beset by unusual weather that didn’t spare the vines! A mild winter, spring-like March, cool spring with frosts, summer-like May, cooler, wetter June, a variable summer with heatwaves, hail and storms… Because of the cold damp spring, some of the vine flowers didn’t set and form fruit, there was millerandage (where the flowers aren’t fully fertilised and give small berries) and high pressure from mildew and odium. Temperatures went right up during the short periods, over-heating and scorching the berries. This weather caused a significant fall in yields, without, however, impacting on the quality of the grapes, as well spread out bunches with small berries guarantee concentration and intensity.
All in all, the grapes achieved good ripeness in aromas and good sugar to acidity balance. The white wines are characterised by their finesse and concentration. The reds set themselves apart with their lovely colours, ripe and silky tannins and their harmonious mouthfeel