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reimal Weiß aus vier Magnums war als Start angesagt. Gleich zweimal war die 2011 Hermannshöhle GG von Dönnhoff angesagt. Zweimal deshalb, damit die nacheinander eintreffenden Gäste auch alle etwas abbekamen, eine sehr kluge Entscheidung. Ob man diese Hermannshöhle jetzt trinken sollte, darüber kann man natürlich streiten. Ein großartiger Wein mit großer Zukunft, der aber wie viele 2011er jetzt etwas im „11er-Loch“ hängt. So blieben die unerhörte Brillianz, die messerscharfe Präzision und die intensive Mineralität dieses Weines zumindest stückweit hinter einem dezenten Schleier verborgen. Wann sich das ändert, ob schon in einem halben Jahr, nächstes oder gar übernächstes Jahr, lässt sich schwer vorhersagen. Das hängt auch von der Lagerung ab. Bernds Keller ist wie meiner sehr kalt. Da dauert eine solche, verschlossene Phase etwas länger. Dafür altert der Wein besser und macht erheblich länger Freude. Deshalb Jammern auf hohem Niveau und nur WT93+.

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