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- 95p by David Schildknecht
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Smoky tobacco, hazelnut, orange zest, quinine and buddleia add pungently bittersweet appeal to scents and succulence of ripe quince, white peach and mirabelle. Lush, full, and palpably high-extract, yet infectiously juicy, the palate boasts seductive inner-mouth perfume and benefits from the stimulating counterpoint supplied by peach fuzz and peach kernel as well as from alkaline, stony and mouthwateringly saline mineral nuances. This finishes with terrific vibrancy and dynamic complexity, not to mention sheer persistence. And although glowing with intensity, it remains heat-free. As Bodenstein is fond of pointing out, it isn’t just the unique genetic mix of ancient vines that distinguishes this parcel; its soil exhibits a very different structure and geological origin than that which prevails in most of the Achleiten.