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- 94p by David Schildknecht
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This represents 900 liters from the nine terraces and their unusual old vines described in my introduction to the current collection. Ripe quince, mirabelle and pineapple signal on the nose that this performance will be a riot of fruit. That is confirmed on a palate of sumptuous lushness and palpably high extract – a description I arrived at prior to learning the astonishing facts. Against a background of drought that overwhelmingly and quite predictably resulted in wines with low levels of dry extract, this one inexplicably boasts 35 grams per liter, which would count as high in any vintage, and represents easily a third more than that of the other Prager 2015 Grüner Veltliner. For all of its richness of fruit, the superbly sustained finish of this beauty also incorporates peat-like smokiness, mouthwatering salinity and an undertone of wet stone. My prognosis of ageability may well prove to have been stingy. But given the nature of these vines, this wine is virtually without precedent.