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    BEST OF THE 2016 WHITE BURGUNDIES

     

    98

    Domaine Leflaive, Chevalier-Montrachet GC

    Domaine Leflaive doesn’t show its Montrachet to visiting wine writers - and it didn't make any under its own label in 2016 - so this is nearly always my favourite wine to taste in the cellar. Reflecting its higher position on the slope, the resulting Grand Cru is very fresh, almost bracing, with notes of white pepper and lemon zest, stylish oak and amazing palate length. 2021-35

     

    97

    Benjamin Leroux, Bâtard-Montrachet GC

    Served last at the Leroux cellar - I felt there should have been a crash of cymbals to announce its arrival - this is always quite a reductive wine, ruling out bottling under screwcap, apparently. But the leesy richness and latent power of this wine are remarkable, with smoky minerality and struck match complexity. 2022-30

     

    97

    Bouchard Père et Fils, Montrachet GC

    Bouchard's production of Montrachet, made with purchased grapes, was way down in 2016, but at least the négociant made some. And what a wine it is, unfurling flavours of cream, baking spices and brioche in the glass, with a twist of ginger and cinnamon spice and a focused, energetic, electric finish. 2021-30

     

    97

    Domaine Bernard Moreau, Chevalier-Montrachet GC

    Another Moreau wine that was made with (small quantities of) purchased grapes, this was restricted to a single older barrel in 2016. Showing the classic Chevalier combination of raciness and understated concentration, it's a remarkable Grand Cru that electrifies the palate with creamy lees, lime and clementine notes and nuanced oak. 2021-30

     

    97

    Domaine de la Vougeraie, Charlemagne GC

    Made with grapes from the Le Charlemagne and En Charlemagne lieux-dits (which entitles the wine to be called Charlemagne as opposed to Corton-Charlemagne), this is a superb expression of the Grand Cru. Chalky, taut and appealingly gunflinty, it has saline, oyster shell notes and understated oak. 2020-28

     

    97

    Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault PC Les Genevrières

    Invariably one of the white wines of the vintage in Meursault, this comes from a single parcel of 0.5 hectares, three quarters of which is over 75 years' old. It's a very complete, self-confident wine, showing crunchy, citrus-edged fruit flavours, subtle toasty oak and a long, refreshing finish. 2021-30

     

    97

    Domaine. des Comtes Lafon, Meursault PC Les Perrières

    Another comparative rarity at Domaine Lafon in 2016, in that it wasn't hit by the frost at all, this needs more time, first in barrel and then in bottle, to digest its oak. But what a wine it is: yeasty and slightly reductive, with classic struck match notes, notes of pink grapefruit and pear and wonderful length. 2022-30

     

    97

    Domaine. François Raveneau, Chablis GC Les Clos

    Even in a so-called "tricky vintage", Raveneau's Les Clos bottling is one of the great wines of Chablis and the world, still available at reasonably affordable prices. This is very youthful, but what potential it shows: complex, powerful, patrician, saline and layered with incredible levels of dry extract and a fine finish. If you're going to buy only one 2016 Chablis, this should be it. 2024-36

     

    97

    Domaine Jacques Carillon, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet GC

    Just a single, two-year-old barrel in 2016 - there are usually two and a bit - but what a wine this is, showing no evidence of the brutal frost. Fresh, zesty and effortlessly concentrated, this has remarkable finesse, drive and focus with grapefruity acidity and chalky precision. 2021-30

     

    97

    Domaine. Jean-Noël Gagnard, Bâtard-Montrachet GC

    From vines on the Chassagne side of the Grand Cru, this yielded only a third of a normal crop because of the April frosts, but what's left is superb. Exotic, glossy and honeyed with pineapple and mango fruit, dense, mouth filling flavours, stylish oak and a powerful, concentrated finish. 2020-27

     

    97

    Domaine Leflaive, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet GC

    Yields were super low at around 10 hectolitres per hectare in 2016, but what survived the frost is delicious, showing impressive focus, line and palate length. There's plenty of fruit weight here, with nectarine and tangerine to the fore, underpinned by chalky acidity. 2021-30

     

    97

    Domaine. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Bâtard-Montrachet GC

    Sourced from the Chassagne side of the Grand Cru - very few growers in the village have vines in the Puligny part - this comes from an 80-year-old parcel that supplied all of 110 litres in 2016. It's another amazing white Burgundy from this über-talented winemaker, with focus, elegance, restrained power and enticing flavours of tangerines, digestive biscuits and warm stones. 2021-30

     

    97

    Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Chevalier-Montrachet GC

    Fans of this wine will have to make do with just a single barrel this year, made with purchased grapes. But what a Grand Cru it is: complex, harmonious and refreshing with remarkable focus, minerality and weight. There are more famous white wine producers in Burgundy, but few who are better. 2022-31

     

    97

    Domaine Roulot, Meursault PC Les Perrières Dessous

    The top Roulot wine in 2016 - as it was in 2015 and 2014 - comes from a 0.25-hectare parcel and is a quintessential expression of the domaine's style: taut, crisp, elegant and refined, with nuanced 25% new oak, some wood smoke and struck match aromas, sappy acidity, pear and citrus fruit depth, cinnamon spice and minerality that's like licking a piece of chalk. 2022-35

     

    97

    Etienne Sauzet, Montrachet GC

    There was so little Montrachet in 2016 that six producers decided to pool their grapes, but Etienne Sauzet was not among them. Yields were a meagre eight hectolitres per hectare, but this isn't over-concentrated in the slightest. Complex, focused and very attractive, with orange zest and citrus notes and beautifully integrated oak framing the underlying power. 2022-30

     

    97

    Joseph Drouhin, Montrachet GC Laguiche

    Half a dozen producers of Montrachet had so little crop in 2016 that they made a co-operative bottling, but the Drouhins' holdings in the north side of the Grand Cru were less devastated. The result is a majestic white, with spicy intensity, stylish oak and rich, palate-coating texture leavened by acidity. 2020-30

     

     

    2016 REDS

     

    99

    Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin GC

    Regular readers of this report will know how much I love this wine, sourced from four separate parcels amounting to 2.55 hectares. Aged in 100% new oak, it's a Grand Cru red that will age for two decades or more. Harmonious, complex and racy, with notes of orange zest, black cherry, forest floor and clove spice. Fine, nuanced and almost outrageously long on the palate. 2028-40

     

    99

    Domaine Armand Rousseau, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze GC

    Generally shown last in tastings at the domaine because it's a bigger, darker more concentrated wine than Chambertin, this comes from a 1.5-hectare holding and is even better than the 2015 in my view. It's a firmer, more tannic wine that needs a little more time in bottle than its neighbour. Spicy, textured and pleasantly meaty with remarkable precision and vivacity. 2030-42

     

    99

    Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Conti GC

    Just a point away from perfection in 2016, but what a wine this is, even at this young age. Serious, dense, complete and self-assured, it's a Grand  Cru that knows where it's going and will age effortlessly for 30 years or more. Liquorice, tobacco pouch and wood bark aromas segue into a palate that's sweet and complex, with tarry tannins and a core of glorious red fruit sweetness. 2036-50

     

    99

    Domaine Georges Roumier, Musigny GC

    Quantities of this world-famous Grand Cru bottling are always tiny, but in 2016 there will only be 240 bottles, alas, aged in a specially commissioned new barrel. Lucky the people who will get to drink this in the future, because it's one of the greatest wines of the vintage. Ethereal and almost weightless, it's an angel that floats across the palate with lacy tannins, Asian spices and a sweet, chalky core. 2030-42

     

    99

    Joseph Drouhin, Musigny GC

    As it was last year, when I went out on a limb and awarded it a perfect 100-point score, this is the best Drouhin wine of the vintage. Sourced from a parcel of 0.5 hectares, it's the quintessence of fine red Burgundy from one of the greatest vineyards on the planet. Silky, velvety and pure, it's a wine to wallow in, or wear as a perfume if you can afford it. Such finesse! Such grace! Such delicacy! 2026-36

     

    98

    Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin PC Clos-St-Jacques

    One of five owners of this prestigious Premier Cru, the domaine has one third of the Clos, with most of it in the sunniest and warmest spot against the wall. This is fresh and vivacious, with plenty of energy, fine-grained tannins, dense underlying fruit and excellent ageing potential. 2026-38

     

    98

    Domaine Armand Rousseau, Ruchottes-Chambertin GC

    Reflecting the high percentage of active limestone in the soils and the comparative altitude of the vineyard, this is generally the most elegant and ethereal of the Rousseaus' mouth-watering line up of Grands Crus. That's certainly the case in 2016, with freshness and zip, subtle tannins and crunchy red berry fruit. 2026-38

     

    98

    Domaine de la Vougeraie, Musigny GC

    The transparency and purity of this wine are something to behold and wonder at. Light and almost weightless on the palate, yet with thrilling grace and elegance. Spicy, floral and sweet, with notes of liquorice and wild strawberry. The finish of the wine lasts for over a minute on the tongue. 2022-35

     

    98

    Domaine Denis Mortet, Bonnes-Mares GC

    Not quite as brilliant as my 100-point 2015, but not far behind it in quality, this comes from an old vine 0.35-hectare vineyard that used to belong to Domaine Newman and is planted on a combination of red and (mostly) white soils. It's the sort of Bonnes Mares you dream of drinking in 20 years' time: subtle, polished and layered, with a ferrous undertone, lovely whole bunch spices and textured, nuanced, fine-grained tannins. 2028-40

     

    98

    Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Chambertin Clos de Bèze GC

    One of the greatest wines to emerge from this difficult vintage, the Drouhins' Clos de Bèze comes from a 1.5-hectare parcel that was planted in 1938. It's the kind of red Burgundy that you fantasise about owning and drinking: fragrant, polished and very fine with chalky freshness and layers of liquorice and black cherry. 2026-40

     

    98

    Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanée GC Monopole

    One of only five monopoly Grands Crus In Burgundy - unless Bernard Arnault manages to buy the missing sliver of Clos des Lambrays - this has vines that are more than a century old. It's always a powerful wine, but one with considerable freshness too. 20% whole bunches add some spice, with flavours of tobacco, black cherry and chalky zip complemented by aromatic oak. A superb expression of this special vineyard. 2026-40

     

    98

    Domaine Dujac, Clos Saint-Denis GC

    The domaine's 1.17 hectares are divided between two parcels - one in Clos St-Denis itself, the other in Les Chaffots. Racy and complex, this is silky, scented and spicy, with perfectly judged new oak, white pepper, peat and clove notes and palate-caressing tannins. One of the wines of the vintage. 2026-40

     

    98

    Domaine Georges Roumier, Bonnes-Mares GC

    Christophe Roumier prefers the grapes he gets from white soils, which is just as well given that they dominate this four-parcel cuvée, only one third of which comes from red clays. This always has more power than his other three Grands Crus, but it's still a very hedonistic wine, with fine tannins, supple red berry flavours and a fresh, chalky finish. So good you want to drink it from barrel. 2028-40

     

    98

    Domaine Georges Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny PC Les Amoureuses

    After losses of 50% because of frost, there are only three barrels of this much-coveted wine for the entire world, which made it a privilege to taste it in the cellar. With two-thirds whole bunches in 2016, it’s a compelling wine of remarkable focus, precision and diaphanous grace. A Pinot lover's Pinot, this has emerged with honour from the devastation of the vintage. 2028-40

     

    98

    Domaine Jean Grivot, Richebourg GC

    Almost as good as the 2015 - and that's saying a lot - this hails from a 0.32-hectare plot, ranging in age between 60 and 80 years' old. This is a stunning Grand Cru that's already a pleasure to drink but needs at least a decade in bottle. Svelte, sensuous and very attractive, it's a diva of a wine with intricate, finely balanced flavours and chalky precision. 2026-40

     

    98

    Domaine Perrot-Minot, Chambertin Clos de Bèze GC

    If you're going to buy grapes from anyone in the Clos de Bèze, it has to be Pierre Damoy, who is the Grand Cru's biggest landowner as well as a brilliant vigneron. This is a stunning wine that shows the concentration and density of old vines and the magic touch of a talented winemaker. Layers of sweet fruit caress the tongue here, with Asian spices and vanilla oak adding more complexity before the wine finishes with a fresh, minerally flourish. 2026-40

     

    98

    Domaine Perrot-Minot, Chambertin GC

    Choosing between this and the Perrot-Minot Clos de Bèze isn’t easy in 2016 - if I had the money I'd buy both - as they are both amazing wines. This is slightly lighter and more refined perhaps, showing the Grand Cru's inherent style and strut. Subtle reduction, caressing tannins, velvety fruit flavours of red cherry and raspberry, a hint of pepper spice and a finish that lingers and lingers. Superb. 2028-40

     

    98

    Domaine. Robert Groffier, Bonnes-Mares GC

    Sourced from a mixture of white and (mostly) red soils on the Chambolle side of the Grand Cru, this shows the effortless concentration of an 80-year-old vineyard. Fermented with 100% stems, like most of the top Groffier reds in 2016, it's silky and elegant yet with considerable underlying punch and power. One of my favourite wines of the vintage. 2026-36

     

    98

    Domaine. Robert Groffier, Chambolle-Musigny PC Les Amoureuses

    The Groffiers' five parcels of Les Amoureuses escaped the frost in 2016, which is fortunate for the many devotees of this wine. Made with less (15%) new oak than the 2015, and only 60% whole clusters, it's a Premier Cru Pinot that's driven by acidity, with delicate rose petal aromas, fine tannins and a long, effortlessly classy finish. 2026-36

     

    98

    Joseph Drouhin, Griotte-Chambertin GC

    This rare Grand Cru only covers 2.3 hectares, split between five producers, but can yield some of the sleekest, most nuanced red Burgundies of all. This is every bit as delicious as the 2015, with slightly less fruit concentration but more vivacity. Racy and fine, with notes of sweet spice, mint and red cherry. 2026-36

    Read the full report:

    http://www.timatkin.com/reports/2016-burgundy-special-report

     

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    Me

    Tim Atkin MW is a UK wine journalist with an international following. He writes for Harpers, Decanter, Gourmet Traveller Wine, Jamie Magazine and Imbibe and has own, award-winning website, timatkin.com. He also has a second career as a photographer whose photos have been published in The Guardian, The Daily Telegraph and the World of Fine Wine and exhibited in London, Provence, Poland and Lebanon. 

    Tim is the winner of many awards, including the Glenfiddich Wine Writer Award in 1988, 1990, 1993, 2004 and 2006 and the Wine Guild of the United Kingdom’s Wine Columnist of the Year in 1991, 1992, 1994 and 1996. In 1994, he was the first recipient of the Wines of France Award. The following year he was the co-winner of The Bunch Award, described by Auberon Waugh as the “Booker Prize of wine writing”, and the winner of the Waterford Crystal Wine Correspondent of the Year Award. In 1999, 2002, 2003 and 2004 he was named Lanson Wine Writer of the Year. Also in 2002, he was highly commended in the PPA Editor of the Year (Business and Professional Magazines) category for his work in transforming Harpers, the UK trade magazine he edited between 2000 and 2003. In 2005 he won the inaugural Wines of Portugal Award. In 2007 he was named Communicator of the Year by the International Wine & Spirit Competition and Best Drink Journalist in the World Food Media Awards. In 2009 he was highly commended in the Columnist of the Year (Business Media) category in the PPA Awards and named Louis Roederer International Wine Columnist of the Year. In 2011, he won the first Born Digital Award for editorial content on timatkin.com. At the 2011 Louis Roederer Awards, his website was named International Wine Website of the Year, an award he won for a second time in 2013. In 2012 he was named as one of Wine Intelligence's 10 for 10 (the people who had made a positive and lasting impact on the wine industry). In 2014 Tim won the Online Drink Writer of the Year Award at the Fortnum & Mason Awards, the Louis Roederer Online Communicator of the Year Award and the Harpers' French Wine Awards Best French Wine Writer/Critic Award. In 2015, he won the Louis Roederer Feature Writer of the Year Award. In 2016, he was given the Premio Memorial Víctor de la Serna by the Real Academia de Gastronomía for his services to Spanish wine. In 2018, he won a sixth Roederer Award as Online Communicator of the Year. 

    Tim has contributed to a number of books on wine, including the New World of Wine, as well as writing two of his own - Chardonnay and Vins de Pays d’Oc. He was also the co-author with Anthony Rose of five editions of the annual consumer guide, Grapevine.

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    Pro Me

    He has judged wines in the UK, France, Italy, the United States, Argentina, Spain, South Africa, Chile and Australia and is co-chairman of the London-based International Wine Challenge, the world’s biggest and most rigorously judged blind tasting competition. He is also the chairman of the Wines from Spain Awards and the Languedoc-Roussillon Top 100. In 2010 he was the international judge at the Melbourne Show and the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition. He is also a member of the panel that chooses the annual Top 50 Italian Wine Awards and judges the Cellars in the Sky Awards, assessing the wines listed by airlines in First and Business Classes.

    Tim is widely respected for his amusing and often controversial presentational style. In 2010 he was the keynote speaker at the Fine Wine Conference in Ribera del Duero and moderated a panel on emerging markets at the Masters of Wine Symposium in Bordeaux. Over the years, he has lectured to banks, firms of solicitors, singles’ evenings and numerous wine associations and clubs, specialising in the wines of France, Spain, Italy and the New World. He is also one of the Three Wine Men (with Olly Smith and Oz Clarke), co-hosting half a dozen consumers weekends each year in the UK. 

    Tim enjoys collecting and taking photos, golf, running, singing, reading and cooking and speaks fluent French and Spanish. He holds a BA from Durham University in Modern Languages and a Masters (with distinction) from the London School of Economics in European Studies. In 1993 he was a European Union fellow on the Paris-based Journalists in Europe programme. In 2001 he passed the notoriously difficult Master of Wine examination at the first attempt, winning the Robert Mondavi Award for the best set of theory papers. He is a Caballero del Vino, a Chevalier du Tastevin and a member of the Ordre du Bontemps in Bordeaux and the Cofradia de Rioja. 

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Wine Moments

Here you can see wine moments from tastingbook users. or to see wine moments from your world.

Tim Atkin MW, Wine Writer (United Kingdom)  had a wine moment

“If I had to choose just one Blanc de Blancs Champagne to lay down on a regular basis, this would be it. It’s hard to believe the wine is 10 years’ old, given its freshness and perky acidity. Floral, understated, citrus and brioche aromas sashay into a pure, focused, beautifully defined palate showing flavours of citrus, fresh bread and lighty grilled nuts. The finish on the wine goes on for a minute. Great now, but tuck some away if you can keep your hands off it. ”

12d 54min ago

1 Wines 1 Producers

Tim Atkin MW, Wine Writer (United Kingdom)  had a wine moment

“If I had to choose just one Blanc de Blancs Champagne to lay down on a regular basis, this would be it. It’s hard to believe the wine is 10 years’ old, given its freshness and perky acidity. Floral, understated, citrus and brioche aromas sashay into a pure, focused, beautifully defined palate showing flavours of citrus, fresh bread and lighty grilled nuts. The finish on the wine goes on for a minute. Great now, but tuck some away if you can keep your hands off it. ”

12d 54min ago

1 Wines 1 Producers

Tim Atkin MW, Wine Writer (United Kingdom)  had a wine moment

“If I had to choose just one Blanc de Blancs Champagne to lay down on a regular basis, this would be it. It’s hard to believe the wine is 10 years’ old, given its freshness and perky acidity. Floral, understated, citrus and brioche aromas sashay into a pure, focused, beautifully defined palate showing flavours of citrus, fresh bread and lighty grilled nuts. The finish on the wine goes on for a minute. Great now, but tuck some away if you can keep your hands off it. ”

12d 54min ago

1 Wines 1 Producers

Tim Atkin MW, Wine Writer (United Kingdom)  had a tasting of  27 Wines  from  9 Producers 

Clos des Lambrays 2017 / "Produced from what is nearly a monopole grand cru - Domaine Taupenot-Merme owns 0.004ha - Clos des Lambrays is always marked by its 90% whole bunches, but the style is very well done in 2017 under new cellarmaster, Boris Champy. With 50% new wood framing the palate, this is subtle, nuanced and focussed, with polished tannins and bright acidity. Drinking Window: 2025-2035.

25d 5h ago

Tim Atkin MW, Wine Writer (United Kingdom)  had a tasting of  6 Wines  from  4 Producers 

Domaine Jean Grivot, Richebourg GC  -98 points / Almost as good as the 2015 - and that's saying a lot - this hails from a 0.32-hectare plot, ranging in age between 60 and 80 years' old. This is a stunning Grand Cru that's already a pleasure to drink but needs at least a decade in bottle. Svelte, sensuous and very attractive, it's a diva of a wine with intricate, finely balanced flavours and chalky precision. 2026-40

1y 2m ago

Tim Atkin MW, Wine Writer (United Kingdom)  had a tasting of  8 Wines  from  5 Producers 

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Conti 2016 / 99 points / Just a point away from perfection in 2016, but what a wine this is, even at this young age. Serious, dense, complete and self-assured, it's a Grand  Cru that knows where it's going and will age effortlessly for 30 years or more. Liquorice, tobacco pouch and wood bark aromas segue into a palate that's sweet and complex, with tarry tannins and a core of glorious red fruit sweetness. 2036-50

1y 8m ago

Tim Atkin MW, Wine Writer (United Kingdom)  had a tasting of  6 Wines  from  5 Producers 

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanée GC Monopole 2016 / 98 Points / One of only five monopoly Grands Crus In Burgundy - unless Bernard Arnault manages to buy the missing sliver of Clos des Lambrays - this has vines that are more than a century old. It's always a powerful wine, but one with considerable freshness too. 20% whole bunches add some spice, with flavours of tobacco, black cherry and chalky zip complemented by aromatic oak. A superb expression of this special vineyard. 2026-40

1y 9m ago

Tim Atkin MW, Wine Writer (United Kingdom)  had a tasting of  8 Wines  from  7 Producers 

Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet 2016 - 98 points / Domaine Leflaive doesn’t show its Montrachet to visiting wine writers - and it didn't make any under its own label in 2016 - so this is nearly always my favourite wine to taste in the cellar. Reflecting its higher position on the slope, the resulting Grand Cru is very fresh, almost bracing, with notes of white pepper and lemon zest, stylish oak and amazing palate length. 2021-35

2y 2m ago

Tim Atkin MW, Wine Writer (United Kingdom)  had a tasting of  7 Wines  from  7 Producers 

Best of 2016 White Burgundies Part II - 97 points: Joseph Drouhin, Montrachet GC Laguiche
Half a dozen producers of Montrachet had so little crop in 2016 that they made a co-operative bottling, but the Drouhins' holdings in the north side of the Grand Cru were less devastated. The result is a majestic white, with spicy intensity, stylish oak and rich, palate-coating texture leavened by acidity. 2020-30

2y 2m ago

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