Tim Atkin MW

The La Tâche was the palest of all the DRC 2017s, almost to the point of transparency. This is a floral, open knit expression of the monopoly Grand Cru, which is very far from being a blockbuster this year. Scented and appealing, with notes of avatar of roses, fresh leather and peat smoke on the nose, lots of whole bunch spice and structure, racy acidity, a hint of salinity, succulent red berry fruit and remarkable palate length. A layered, understated red.

2001 Gran Reserva from Maques de Caceres, this is a nicely mature cuvee of Tempranillo with 15% Garnacha and 5% Graciano from one of the great post-war vintages. Perfumed, lightly balsamic and well structured, with toast and black fruit flavours and savoury tannins. 2022-28.

2007 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Reserve, Kremstal / This brilliant biodynamic estate is based in the Wachau on the “wrong” side of the Danube, but this wine hails from vineyards in neighbouring Kremstal. It’s an incredible Riesling: intense, focused and minerally with remarkable texture, density and concentration. Honey, white flowers and a stony undertow, with spice, creamy lees and a finish that lasts for minutes. The wine will develop for at least another decade in bottle.

2016 Torre Muga is the most "international" in style of the bodega's reds - controversially so when it was first released in 1991 - and is a cuvée of Tempranillo with 20% Mazuelo and Graciano, aged in 100% new French wood. Using fruit from the "magic triangle" between Villalba, Haro and Labastida, it's plush, aromatic and finely judged with subtle wood, violet top notes, sculpted tannins and the depth and concentration to age.

Clos des Lambrays 2017 / "Produced from what is nearly a monopole grand cru - Domaine Taupenot-Merme owns 0.004ha - Clos des Lambrays is always marked by its 90% whole bunches, but the style is very well done in 2017 under new cellarmaster, Boris Champy. With 50% new wood framing the palate, this is subtle, nuanced and focussed, with polished tannins and bright acidity. Drinking Window: 2025-2035.

Domaine Jean Grivot, Richebourg GC  -98 points / Almost as good as the 2015 - and that's saying a lot - this hails from a 0.32-hectare plot, ranging in age between 60 and 80 years' old. This is a stunning Grand Cru that's already a pleasure to drink but needs at least a decade in bottle. Svelte, sensuous and very attractive, it's a diva of a wine with intricate, finely balanced flavours and chalky precision. 2026-40

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Conti 2016 / 99 points / Just a point away from perfection in 2016, but what a wine this is, even at this young age. Serious, dense, complete and self-assured, it's a Grand  Cru that knows where it's going and will age effortlessly for 30 years or more. Liquorice, tobacco pouch and wood bark aromas segue into a palate that's sweet and complex, with tarry tannins and a core of glorious red fruit sweetness. 2036-50

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, La Romanée GC Monopole 2016 / 98 Points / One of only five monopoly Grands Crus In Burgundy - unless Bernard Arnault manages to buy the missing sliver of Clos des Lambrays - this has vines that are more than a century old. It's always a powerful wine, but one with considerable freshness too. 20% whole bunches add some spice, with flavours of tobacco, black cherry and chalky zip complemented by aromatic oak. A superb expression of this special vineyard. 2026-40

Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet 2016 - 98 points / Domaine Leflaive doesn’t show its Montrachet to visiting wine writers - and it didn't make any under its own label in 2016 - so this is nearly always my favourite wine to taste in the cellar. Reflecting its higher position on the slope, the resulting Grand Cru is very fresh, almost bracing, with notes of white pepper and lemon zest, stylish oak and amazing palate length. 2021-35

Best of 2016 White Burgundies Part II - 97 points: Joseph Drouhin, Montrachet GC Laguiche
Half a dozen producers of Montrachet had so little crop in 2016 that they made a co-operative bottling, but the Drouhins' holdings in the north side of the Grand Cru were less devastated. The result is a majestic white, with spicy intensity, stylish oak and rich, palate-coating texture leavened by acidity. 2020-30