The Domaine was estalished by Georges Roumier in 1924, who went on to instigate the practice of domaine bottling his family’s wines in 1945. Today the Domaine has been expanded to 11.8 hectares over 9 appellations and is run by Georges Roumier’s Grandson, Christophe.
Christophe makes the wine as naturally as possible, vines are hand-tended, the wine undergoes a controlled fermentation with maceration before and after, and the wines rest sur lie in barriques for as long as possible, usually 16 to 18 months. The long slow ageing enables these wines to be bottled without filtration. 15-25% new oak is used for the village appellations whilst 40-50% is used for the 1ers and Grand Crus. The result is intense, noble red Burgundy.
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We inched into the reds with a 1937 Haut Brion. While the 1930s is generally considered a lost decade when it comes to Bordeaux, this HB showed admirably. It had a complex nose with aromas of caramel, bookshelf, mocha and some forest. Its palate was creamy and lush, fresh yet mature. There were candle wax kisses to its palate and nice leather on its finish, along with a touch of signature gravel. Secondary flavors of celery soda and molasses rounded out this toasty Haut Brion (94).
”3m 19d ago
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The 1964 Dom Perignon was a touch pinchy and weedy at first, but the bread, butter and honey came and joined the party shortly. No bubbles but great White Burgundy, Bernard insisted. There were citrus, dust and straw edges and a touch of the cat’s meow (pee) that crept out in the glass. It was still excellent, but definitely better a decade prior when it blew me away after being re-released, or perhaps that was just this bottle (94).
”6m 9d ago
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Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romanée 2017 / This Intense almost opaque dark ruby coloured wine offers a beautiful range of aromas – ripe dark berries, wild strawberries, blueberries, brambles, violets and spices such as anise.
Mouth-filling, rich elegant texture formed by ripe tannins and intense fruit. Fruit intensity is generous but not over-extracted. Oak adds extra complexity to the wine’s flavour profile in a very elegant way. Long finish with concentration. 97p
6m 24d ago
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Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, 1999 Comte Georges de Vogué / Given that the Domaine de Vogué owns over 7 hectares of the 10.65 extent of Le Musigny and 56 ares of the 5 hectares Les Amoureuses, not to mention 2.7 hextares of Bonnes Mares, we are among one of the greatest domaines in the Côtes d'Or. Since the mid-1980s this estate has hardly put a foot wrong. Here in 1999 we are at the very highest Burgundy can achieve.
This is a very lovely wine. Full, rich, powerful, yet with the usual Chambolle delicacy and spectacular concentration of fruit. It apears to be only just ready, but seemingly there is a lifetime ahead of it. Brilliant!
”9m 15d ago
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The DRC 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru had not been racked and so I was able to taste this from barrel, unlike the Romanée-Conti. It has haunting precision on the nose, introverted at first, dark berry fruit like the Grands-Echézeaux but with more complexity. The palate is very pure with a granular texture on the entry, immense depth and precision, a killer line of acidity with a very sapid finish. Quintessentially La Tâche. If only there were a time-machine so I could fast-forward and taste this exquisite La Tâche in bottle. 97-99
”1y 5m ago
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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares 2018 is very deeply colored, in fact so much so that it would make a young port blush! The ripe aromas of red and blue berries, spice and earth display a mentholated top note. The dense, powerful and mouthcoating broad-shouldered flavors possess evident muscularity while delivering excellent length on the youthfully austere finale. This isn't refined, indeed it's borderline rustic, but it's a dramatic and impressive wine that should live for decades.
”1y 5m ago
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The 1995 Petrus Magnum was much bigger and full of youthful fruit. It was so much more adolescent out of magnum. I was all about its deep purple and iron as the wine continued to reveal its rich, exceptional sexiness that only grew with air. A touch of banana skin added complexity. This was still elegant but sturdy and fresh in its youth. It was much wealthier than the 1985. Its meat was dripping off the bone; this was an exceptional Petrus, and an undervalued one (96+M).
”1y 7m ago
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Alión 1994 / Production was much smaller then than now. All bought in fruit of course. There are different phases for ageing of Ribera. After bottling it is depressed and then the wine starts to develop. After 8 months some reduction but not a problem because reduction protects the wine against ageing.After 7-10 years there will be light reduction. This is the 1994 stage currently. Some people will call this brett butit’s not because we have analysed all our wines. We have observed that the 1994 is leaving the reductive phase but the 1996 is approaching it. This is why these are the two wines from the whole set that are more difficult than most to understand. We prefer not to decant.
Blackish crimson. Slightly cheesey on the nose – even a bit dusty. A more traditional style than many – hint of burnt toast. Really interesting and logn – complete. Thick and sweet. Dusty finish. Rich but with lots of very firm tannins.
1y 8m ago
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Chapoutier Ermitage De L'Orée 2016 / Intense, golden yellow, with hints of green and gold.Very intense, hot shingles, toffee, and very ripe lemon with floral overtones of
Well-rounded start, full bodied, very complex with overtones of ripe fruits, spices and roasted flavors. Very long on the palate, with a fresh finish.
De L'Orée is always a critic's favorite with, at best, only 600 cases produced per year. It is Marsanne, so intense due to low yields and high ripeness, that handles barrel fermentation without leaving overt oak tones. The site is the alluvial Coteaux des Murets in the eastern part of the Hermitage hill. It is one of the longest-living dry white wines in France.
”1y 8m ago
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Domaine Dugat-Py Chambertin Grand Cru 2019/
The 2019 Chambertin Grand Cru is the usual solitary barrel this year, incorporating 80–90% whole-bunch fruit. It does have difficulty following the stellar Mazis-Chambertin, coming across a little straightlaced by comparison, though attractive pressed flower and marine scents emerge with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with bold, firm tannins. This is where the wine steps up a gear, offering intense red and black fruit laced with white pepper and clove, and delivering a crescendo that brings to mind the thunderous piano chord that finishes the Beatles' "A Day in the Life." Very persistent and grandiose, this deserves several years in bottle. 95-97p
2y 3m ago
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Telmo Rodríguez Lanzaga 2009 / Bushvine Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha from the village of Lanciego. Planted at 500-600 m on a sandstone plateau. Flat shallow soils, stony, calcareous and silty textured. Low fertility and low water retention capacity. Some fruit from own biodynamically farmed vineyard, some bought in. 40,000 bottles. Fermented with native yeasts in cement tanks, matured 14 months in big oak casks and smaller barrels. Bottled June 2012.
Intensely dark crimson with black core. Smells immediately sweeter and riper and more intense than the LZ, with some oak sweetness. Very dark fruited and more spice too. Even with that extra fruit intensity there is still a graphite/mineral dimension. On the palate, the tannins are dense but somehow silky at the same time, giving a wonderfully dry finish, the same effect as 70% dark chocolate but with a different flavour. Still pretty closed up on the palate, dark and savoury and firmly mineral. Super-dry, long finish. So much more to come. Stunning wine. A little more luscious than the 2010 Alto Lanzaga. (JH)
2y 7m ago
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The half-bottle pair of 1945 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé was part of an extraordinary private dinner that focused upon 1945 clarets. I did not mind the brief detour into Burgundy. Our generous host wanted to compare two bottlings of this legendary Burgundy, one bottled at the domaine and the second an “Avery of Bristol” bottling acquired at the auction of the much-missed John Avery MW. First and foremost, for all those half-bottle naysayers, after 74 years both showed extremely well, and according to a fellow guest they were as good as a 750ml bottle. They revealed no signs of fatigue, nor did they exhibit any excessive vigor that would have raised suspicions about their authenticity. The domaine bottling came with a neck label stating that the wine was bottled in August 1947 and the quantities produced, although I did not take a note at the time. It demonstrated bricking commensurate with a Burgundy of this age. It is blessed with a heavenly bouquet of astounding precision, extant red fruit laced with camphor, jasmine tea, loam and, with aeration, a splash of balsamic. The bouquet seemed to gently intensify with aeration but always remained somehow languid. The palate comes across as extremely harmonious, exuding that sense of Pinoté. I noticed some distant similarity to a mature Rioja Gran Reserva toward the finish, but if anything, with aeration it reverts back to quintessential mature Musigny, developing a discreet gamy note that I absolutely adore. This is a magnificent wine that lived up to expectations. 98/Drink 2020-2035. The Avery bottling was very similar in appearance to the domaine bottling. Likewise, the aromatic profile bore many similarities, albeit with perhaps even more precision. That sweet core of red fruit is present and correct, laced with similar tertiary and gamy characteristics. The main difference was on the palate, which was texturally slightly more honeyed by comparison and consequently shaved away a little precision on the finish. It is still a gorgeous wine, but in the end I decided that the domaine half-bottle just had the edge. 97/Drink 2020-2030.
”2y 9m ago
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