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  • Country ranking ?

    1 312
  • Producer ranking ?

    14
  • Decanting time

    2h
  • When to drink

    now to 2035
  • Food Pairing

    ROAST CHICKEN

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The wood is now much more modulated than it was last year though not invisible on the expressive and complex nose of very ripe aromas of earth, mocha and fresh tobacco. There is equally good complexity to the notably ripe yet solidly energetic big-bodied flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration and a firm tannic spine on the mildly austere finish. This has turned out much better than I originally foresaw as the jammy character is now less obvious.

Score: 93 Allen Meadows, Burghound.com (45), January 2012

The 2009 Clos de Vougeot is totally elegant, striking and pure. In 2009 the wine has a level of elegance and pure sexiness that is unbelievably rare for Clos de Vougeot. Sweet red berries meld into flowers, mint, licorice and spices as this refined Burgundy continues to open up in the glass. The intense salinity and energy of the finish is striking. This is another dazzling wine from Arnaud Mortet. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.

Score: 96 Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate (200), April 2012

There's no denying the quaility or ambition of the wines from this revitalised domaine. This is a very powerful Pinot, closer to a top Gevrey than a Clos de Vougeot. There's a lot of oak on the wine at the moment, but this is a wine that is built for bottle age. The underlying fruit is excellent, just waiting to strut its stuff in five years or more.

Score: 94 Tim Atkin MW, timatkin.com, October 2011

Notably dark crimson. Jewelly rather modern fruit. Sweet and flattering on the palate. This might not be the most appetising example. But it’s charming in a candied cherry sort of way. Firm finish.

Score: 17 Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com, October 2011

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The Story

The Clos de Vougeot in the heart of the Côte de Nuits occupies most of the vineyard area belonging to the commune of Vougeot. Vougeot's neighbours are Chambolle-Musigny, Flagey-Échezeaux and Vosne-Romanée. On the slopes at the upper end of the Clos, it abuts on the vineyards of Musigny and Grands-Échezeaux.
Founded around 1110 AD by the monks of nearby Cîteaux, who remained its owners until the Revolution of 1789, the Clos de Vougeot is a Burgundian icon. Its 50.59 hectares have never been broken up and it retains its identity intact within the walls which were built to enclose it 5 centuries ago. Its wines are among the finest of the Grand Cru reds and it has held Grand Cru status since 31 July 1937. 
The château, (which adjoins the cellars and the winery with its giant presses dating back to the 12th and 14th centuries), is built in the Burgundian Renaissance style and is open to visitors. The Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin holds its meetings or « chapters » here and therefore it is no surprise that the finest food and wine in France is found here.

The diversity of soils within the Clos de Vougeot makes up a sort of needle-point tapestry. At about 255 metres above sea-level, its upper end is gently sloping, with soil only some 40 cm deep, coarse-grained and gravelly over a limestone base. In the centre, at about 250 metres of altitude, the soil is still shallow (45 cm), brown, more clayey, overlying broken limestone. The lower portion (around 240 metres) has a brown soil which is deeper (90 cm) and lies on a layer of marl, rich in clay and alluvium. The rocks belong to the Jurassic period (175 million years BC). 

 

« Here's presence ! » exclaims Hugh Johnson's Wine Guide. Nowadays the vineyard is divided among numerous owners and for this reason no single description can be applied to the reds wines. There are, however, common features : very intense colour ranging from strawberry red to deep garnet ; a suave bouquet, redolent of springtime of blown roses at dawn, of violets in the morning dew, of moist mignonette... Add to these blackberry, raspberry, wild mint, liquorice and truffle... On the palate, the taste is masterful, rich, succulent and mellow, combining elegance and delicacy with meaty fullness. A long finish in the mouth and long aging potential (anything from 10 to 30 years and sometimes even more).

This mouth-filling and noble wine demands to be matched with food that is equally as rich, smooth, opulent, and complex. The emphasis therefore will normally be on musky and marbled meats: forerib of beef, braised lamb, roast veal with mushrooms or a nice game-bird (in sauce or simply roasted). The meat must not be too firm, thus allowing the tannins of the Clos de Vougeot to envelop it without being over-dominant.

Cheeses: preferably soft-centred cheeses such as Époisses, Langres, Soumaintrain, Saint-Florentin, and not forgetting Cîteaux, whose monks first established this famous vineyard.
Serving temperatures: 12 to 13 °C for young wines, 15 to 16 °C for older wines.

 

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Vintage 2009

A warm spring with some hail in the northern part of the Côte de Nuits. After an even flowering and a warm June, the summer arrived with variable July weather. Fortunately August was fine with a period of hot weather in the second week. September started with some rain, then became fine and warm again. A harvest of healthy, ripe grapes followed. The 2009s have all the structure packed in with rich, luscious fruit. Comparable to the 2005s. Great wines.

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Written Notes

There’s no denying the quaility or ambition of the wines from this revitalised domaine. This is a very powerful Pinot, closer to a top Gevrey than a Clos de Vougeot. There’s a lot of oak on the wine at the moment, but this is a wine that is built for bottle age. The underlying fruit is excellent, just waiting to strut its stuff in five years or more. 

  • 94p

Bright ruby. Scented, vanilla, spices, red berries and some darker fruits. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins, fresh, fruity, elegant but a bit up front oak, lots of spices, bit woody, peppery finish. Long. 91

  • 91p
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Information

Origin

Beaune, Burgundy

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