So, how is the Bordeaux 2024 red vintage? It is better than I expected. Regarding weather challenges, it is similar to 2013, but 2024 was saved by modern technology, the dry and sunny month of August, and a long ripening process. Adjectives such as fresh, elegant, delicate, lively, gentle, and silky characterize most wines. Many wines, especially from properties that couldn't afford treatment costs against mildew, etc., deviate from this description by being over-extracted, green, unripe, and showing dry flavors. In my view, the Right Bank slightly outperforms the Left Bank in terms of wine quality.

The second part of the primeur tasting was held in Essen. A number of Châteaux have sent their samples and were tasted on arrival. The trend of wines with a lot of fruit in a slightly lighter style yet with very good persistence on the palate which was already observed during the primeur tasting in Bordeaux was confirmed.

Château Suduiraut 2010 /Super nose with some exotic pineapple/mango/passion fruit undertones mixed with Vouvray-like blossom-tree and quince jelly, enormous body, but incredible purity and crystal-like transparency, great length, a masterpiece! Drink 2020-2070.

2024 Vintage Pessac-Léognan Whites / 2024 Domaine de Chevalier blanc / Pale lemon yellow. Apples, citrus, fruit forward, nuanced, lemons, detailed and elegant nose, tight. Fresh acidity, apples, rounded, detailed, nuanced, juicy, refreshing, wonderful intensity and balance, gorgeous. 98

Best of the latest Burgundy vintages: The 2023 Musigny from Joseph Drouhin is a wine of rare grace and grandeur — a majestic interpretation of one of Burgundy’s most hallowed terroirs. From the first swirl, the bouquet is utterly enchanting: a symphony of ripe red cherries, wild strawberries, violets, and rose petals, layered with subtle hints of sandalwood, white pepper, and crushed stone.

On the palate, this wine is the very definition of finesse and power in harmony. Silky and seamless, it unfolds in waves of pristine fruit, vibrant acidity, and ultra-fine tannins. There is an almost weightless intensity to its structure, as flavors of red berries, orange zest, Asian spice, and a whisper of earth dance across the tongue with remarkable precision.

The finish is extraordinarily long and poised, echoing with floral and mineral notes that seem to resonate endlessly. Joseph Drouhin’s Musigny 2023 is a tour de force — a wine of noble character, inner luminosity, and profound aging potential. A true jewel of the vintage.

2024 – back to the essentials.

This year again the “en primeur week” started with an excellent report of Prof. Axel Marchal, University Professor at the Oenological Research Unit of the Institute of Vine and Wine. The report was not only high lightening the challenges of the vintages but also the positive aspects.

The year started with an exceptionally rainy winter with mild temperatures and little sunshine, which delayed bud break and limited the access to vine plots. Then a rapid early phenological development was significantly slowed down to cool and again wet weather from mid-April onwards. May was rainy and rather cool, lacking sunshine and resulting in a slow and irregular vine growth. Rain continued in June and caused a difficult flowering in the context of a high mildew threat. A fairly dry summer turned to a more positive side, but important water reserves in the soil led to a late and spaced-out version. The ripening period was from August onwards, before the sudden arrival of autumn in September. A spell of rain from September 20 disrupted the harvest schedule. However, in Sauternes, alternating dry and wet weather conditions were propitious to the onset of Botrytis cinerea and the concentration of the grapes.

Vintners had to react and so it is rather a vintner’s vintage than a terroir vintage, although a great terroir was very helpful to get excellence. In some moments of the tasting there was a reminder of the vintages in the 1980s and 1990s, which were lighter in alcohol as during the decades of the 2000s. But there is one big difference: the last three decades have seen a lot of positive changes in viticulture and vinification. Attention to the environment, harvest by smaller plots, extensive selection processes, a different approach on fermentation and maceration have led to upgraded precision, impressing elegance and in a lot of cases a very convincing persistence. This work has to be recompensated and therefore the ratings are not at the very top but on a quite upper level. It was a wise decision of a lot of Châteaux to put an accent on the purity of fruit rather than on massive extraction. Since a long time, alcohol levels have not been that low, although chaptalization has been used to be more precise in the fermentation process and get balanced wines. This « lighter style » has not to be a disadvantage. 2024 is not a great vintage but a vintage offering some great opportunities in a style of refinement and elegance. One could say we are back to the classic vintages with wines guaranteeing an excellent drinking pleasure. Interesting to observe, that the number of attributes used for the flavour profiles is lower than in previous years and is more focussed on fruit, floral components and aromatic herbs, complex spiciness and toasting components are less prominent. This might be caused by the lower extraction levels and the vintners focus on fruit promoting the varietal character. Some wonderful wines with stunning purity can be found in Sauternes and Barsac. Also, the dry white wines have generally performed better than the reds, although the aromatic profile of the different wines is much closer and uniform this year with an accent on citrus fruits and aromatic herbs.

How does Axel Marchal conclude his presentation: “It is clear that 2024 will not be remembered as an exceptional vintage for Bordeaux wines. Nevertheless, thanks to the considerable efforts undertaken in the vineyards and the technical progress that winegrowers now benefit from, the quality of the wines produced this year bears no comparison to the rainy vintages of the past. While it was obviously easier to make very good dry and sweet white wines, it would be a mistake to systematically overlook the red wines.”

Axel Marchal is right, a good number of high-quality wines can be found in 2024, one only has to look out for them.

Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1990 / Big, ripe expression with gingerbread, roasted hazelnuts, straw, green apple and sea notes, complemented by gunpowdery complexity. Broad, almost oily textured yet fresh palate, with the softest mousse. Mature but healthy and fruity. Disgorged 2007.

Barolo 2019 is an excellent vintage—classic and balanced. It shows great structure, freshness, and aging potential, with refined tannins and vibrant acidity. One for the cellar.

Screaming Eagle 2021 / The aromatics on this are stunning, offering black cherries, blackcurrants, lead pencil, spearmint, Spanish cedar. and wild roses. It’s medium-bodied and starts slowly on the palate and then takes off with muscular tension. Nicely chewy, toned and firm. Goes on for minutes. Flexing and showing its propensity for longevity. Rock on. Best after 2028 and beyond.

QUINTA DO NOVAL VINTAGE PORT NACIONAL 1963 – This is the Vintage Port which most people would like to take to their lonely island. High-scores everywhere and so much life ahead that it almost frightens you: The colour is easily 10-20 years younger of what you would expect. Deep, dark-red colour with lots of reflections. Perfectly balanced bouquet with finesse and intensity. Long and multi-layered aftertaste. Tasted last year at the Quinta. Port-Heaven! 100

The 100-Best Champagne 2024 Finalists reviewed!

Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1929 / An absolutely sensational bottle—youthful, highly elegant, and perfectly balanced between acidity and sweetness. Delicate, slightly salty caramel, malt, dried figs, and molasses weave together in a masterpiece of flavor. Simply brilliant—off the charts! 20+ points