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With 30% of Cabernet Franc, Château Canon’s planting is characteristic of Saint-Emilion. The limestone soil reveals the full character of Cabernet Franc, which is a perfect complement to Merlot. The two varieties have long been used together. Cabernet Franc brings freshness, delicacy and structure to Château Canon wines. It makes subtle wines with fine acidity. It gives them great aromatic persistence with varied and complex smoky, roasted and mineral notes
The Merlot grape variety reigns supreme in Saint-Emilion. Its name comes from the local patois and means petite merle (small blackbird) because of its dark colour similar to that of the bird. Restructuring Château Canon’s vineyard has made it possible to plant it 65% to Merlot, bringing it in line with the estate’s original planting scheme. Their wide, dark green leaves are highly indented. They provide shelter for large, long, open clusters of grapes. The small, round grapes are bluish black when ripe and their juicy flesh is particularly sweet. Although hardy, Merlot vines are sensitive to spring frost as they develop early. They thrive in this clay and limestone soil which stays cool even in summer. These engaging Merlots are smooth on the palate, mellow and supple; they have presence and offer roundness in the mouth. Their aromatic complexity is characterised by aromas of red and dark summer fruit. On aging they develop woody and spicy notes. These subtle and refined Merlots with delicate, silky tannins bring smoothness and charm to Château Canon.
Early, uniform flowering, a hot but unspectacular summer and an exceptionally hot period at the end of August 1990 and the first half of September. It was this heat that allowed the record harvest not only to fully ripen, but also to concentrate the fruit. Harvesting began on September 14 and was completed before the start of heavy rains on October 2. Another reason for the success of the vintage was that most châteaux had invested in their cellars and were able to work with such a large and hot harvest. It was now possible to control fermentation temperatures better than in previous warm vintages, such as 1947. The grapes produced wines with such a high level of natural alcohol that chaptalization became unnecessary. They showed deep color, high and unusually sweet tannin levels and better acidity than expected, as well as great concentration of fruit. The hype was great, particularly thanks to the advent of new wine magazines - this was the vintage that cemented Robert Parker's reputation. Prices rose quickly and haven't looked back since. I remember that all Premiers Crus (including Pétrus) were offered to end consumers for around 50 euros en primeur in 1983.
The scene of the arrival of the 1990 vintage was quite different. There was a surplus of very good to great wine on the market – for the first time, there was talk of three great vintages in succession. This led most châteaux to drop their prices by around 20% from their 1989 prices, even though the quality was exceptional. There had been a steady increase in prices during the 1980s, but they had now more or less returned to the opening prices of the 1982s. This was again a record harvest, but as most châteaux had already introduced a "second wine" and were more selective regarding quality, there was actually less wine bottled under the name "Grand Vin" than in 1982.
We have been following these two vintages since they were young, as they were both precocious and easy to drink from the start. The best wines from both vintages are spectacular, but the overall quality is much higher in 1990. Here, the wines have been equally successful on both sides of the river, and even the small châteaux have produced something special. We always found most Right Bank 1982s to be overly alcoholic and lacking in structure; Indeed, many age quickly.