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  • Country ranking ?

    256
  • Producer ranking ?

    26
  • Decanting time

    2h
  • When to drink

    2020-2035

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The Story

Many of McLaren Vale's vineyards are on free-draining soils underlain with limestone, formed by the calcareous remains of the local marine fauna. One such creature was the Hermit Crab, a reclusive little crustacean that inhabits the cast-off shells of others. The Osborn family thought the name appropriate for this, McLaren Vale's first ever blend of Viognier and Marsanne. "Hermit" is also an abbreviation for the French appellation of Hermitage, where the Marsanne grape variety dominates.

 

A wine that really does offer something for a large array of individuals, from someone purely interested in a nice drink to those seeking to explore the nuances of these “alternate” varieties. The Viognier certainly takes centre stage on the nose in the guise of stone fruits, candied ginger and florals. In the background for those keen on honing their senses, Marsanne adds slightly more exotic notes of green mango, hay and almond. The palate has a lovely medium bodied weight to it, without any of that oiliness that over ripe Viognier can deliver. Precise acid throughout and a mild pithy texture on the finish ensure freshness and spice to keep the sweetness of the fruit in check. Fruity and spicy yet dry make this an all occasions wine.

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Vintage 2021

2021 Barossa Valley Vintage Report

Following two particularly dry seasons, many were hoping for Mother Nature to be much kinder, and mostly she was. Winter rainfall in 2020 recorded 148mm, the same as winter 2019, (22% below average). The majority of this rainfall was in the latter half of August, with the rain continuing into September and October. This was ideal timing to replenish soil profiles to field capacity moving into budburst in October. However, dry conditions ensued throughout November and into summer with the growing season rainfall from October to March measuring 129mm, 42% below average. The calendar year of 2020 recorded 455.8mm, 160mm higher than 2019.

Some frost damage occurred on 27 September, when temperatures plunged to -0.3°C. However, many varieties were only just emerging and widespread damage thankfully was avoided.

November recorded 4 days above 35°C, pushing the monthly maximum temperature to 28°C - 4°C warmer than previous years. However, conditions throughout summer were relatively mild with December recording its lowest maximum temperature since 2014, and all months recording monthly maximums below average. Cool, dewy mornings and maximum temperatures below 30°C for the majority of January provided optimal ripening conditions.

Conditions were quite favourable during flowering, allowing bunches to set and good fruit development. Veraison started in late January-early February and the cooler conditions and some rain in early February helped to plump up berries and provide some relief to soil moisture profiles. Minimum temperatures for February were 1.4°C below average and maximums were 1.2°C below average.

Whilst yield varied between vineyards, it was welcome relief to achieve close to average crops in comparison to the last two seasons.

There was much anticipation that labour resources required for hand picking would not be available this vintage due to border closures, but with the cooler weather slowing ripening, vintage was less compressed than previous years and it was much easier to source labour than first thought. Harvest continued well into April as the dry Indian summer continued to ripen the grapes.

Quality is exceptional across the varieties and styles from 2021. Reds have intense, rich and balanced flavours and colours; whites have lovely aromatics, finesse and great natural acidity.

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Latest Pro-tasting notes

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Written Notes

‘The Hermit Crab’ Viognier Marsanne 2021 – d’Arenberg’s Olive Grove Chardonnay is so named because of the olive trees found in McLaren Vale. Does that mean we find hermit crabs scuttling up and down the rows of vines in the region? Not quite, although perhaps once, had vines been around in past millennia. These days, their presence is limited to the calcareous remains of crustaceans like the hermit crab, which form the limestone found locally. 

 

Much has been made of what a cracking vintage 2021 is, but what is interesting is that the team at d’Arenberg found it “more delicate and floral” than usual for their ‘Hermit Crab’, but they also noted the tropical characters it brought forth. And this can certainly be seen in the wine. Small batches of grapes were gently crushed and transferred to stainless steel basket presses (which I am sure are effective but are somewhat lacking when it comes to the image of a romantic craft – still, in the end, all that matters is what ends up in the bottle). 4% native yeasts and 14% of the Viognier fermented in older French Oak, followed by eight months in oak. 100% from McLaren Vale, the blend is 61% Viognier and 39% Marsanne. 

A deep yellow/gold in colour, there is an array of flavours all combining in harmony – the tropical notes, with apricot kernels and nuts, certainly almonds. Stonefruits and florals, with the passionfruit and pineapple. Lovely lifted aromatics. There is good acidity carrying the wine, decent length and all is well balanced. Peaches appear on the palate. Full of flavour, this is quite delicious. Drink it over the next 12 months. Seriously good value. 91.

  • 91p
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Information

Origin

McLaren Vale, South Australia

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