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    now to 2035
  • Food Pairing

    chicken Caesar Salad

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The Story

The Abtserde is a tiny sub-plot of the Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen, where a vein of iron runs through the limestone. In the fourteenth century, the Abtserde was owned by the Kloster Schönau, and was considered the greatest vineyard in the Hügelland. The wine was reserved exclusively for the private needs of the abbot, who was also the Bishop of Worms.

Klaus and Hedwig Keller, (Klus-Peter's parents) purchased this 2.5 hectare parcel of the Abtserde in 2001, despite the land still being under lease for ten years. Keller's Abtserde Großes Gewächs has already been hailed as the greatest dry Riesling produced in Germany.

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Wine Information

96 points Vinous

 Marine-breeze alkaline and saline notes, black tea smokiness and a hints of framboise distillate penetrate the nostrils, and the mineral complexity that follows on the polished, expansive (even at 12.8% alcohol), remarkably buoyant palate does not disappoint the expectations aroused by the nose. At the same time, there is an infectious abundance of white peach, grapefruit and red raspberry juiciness on tap, invigoratingly accented by piquant but never outright bitter pits and pips along with tart, seed-crunching impingement. A finish of vibratory intensity and consummate refreshment left me exhilarated and panting after the next fascinating, sensuously satisfying sip. Keller calls this the butterfly among his Grosse Gewächse and attributes the jump in quality that it typically represents in tasting that line-up to the stony purity and rapid drainage of the site’s limestone soils. There’s something approaching magic here, that’s for sure! 

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Written Notes

The wine of the night was a 2014 Keller Abts Erde GG from Rheinhessen. This area is flat to undulating as opposed to the river facing vineyards of the Rheingau and Moselle. It comes from a small block of the Westhofer Brunnenhaeuschen vineyard. The history of this esteemed limestone and ironstone vineyard goes back to the 14th century. When the highly regarded Kellers purchased this vineyard in 2001, the stars aligned. The texture of this wine is aristocratic Riesling, and the nose and palate is quite unique. Quince and yellow fruits on the nose are enticing. On the palate, there is peach, apple, grapefruit, passionfruit, and tight minerality. This complex flavour is hardly that of a typical Riesling. There is a good drive on the palate, without the wine being linear. Superb! The quality of this wine is only matched by its price.

  • 97p
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Mosel, Rheinhessen


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