x
  • Decanting time

    -
  • When to drink

    2020-2035

The Story

“G-Max”. The G is named for his great grandfather, George, and Max, who is the younger of Klaus-Peter’s two sons (his older son also has a special bottling named for him, Klaus-Peter’s top pinot noir). The vines for the G-Max bottling are all extremely old, and from which vineyard they hail from is no longer made public. Klaus-Peter may well make it from a different parcel of old vines in each vintage, probably at the very top of one of the slopes, depending on which parcel has excelled the most in any given year, but he is no longer at liberty to say from which vineyard he has made the wine. The reason for this is the year that the G-Max was made from the oldest parcel in Morstein, Klaus-Peter (who then saw no reason to keep this information private), told all of his visitors where he had sourced the grapes from for the G-Max, only to find one of his enthusiastic Japanese fans in the Morstein vineyard soon after cutting grapes from this parcel to take home as a souvenir!

 

Needless to say the riesling G-Max is of a sufficiently exhilarating quality to make fans go to extremes, and now Klaus-Peter keeps his decision on which vineyard’s oldest vines will supply the G-Max in each vintage a secret, in the hopes that he will not loose half of the potential harvest of the following year to souvenir hunters. Because it does not state which vineyard it hails from on the label, it is not entitled to Grosses Gewächs status, but this does not tend to deter any of its many enthusiasts. The G-Max is Klaus- Peter’s most famous wine in Germany (and is the wine that really put the estate on the map after 2001 for their profound dry rieslings), and it is priced at levels similar to Clos Ste. Hune due to its scarcity and extremely high demand. It is indeed a hauntingly brilliant wine, but to my palate it is only a very small step up in quality from all of the other great grand cru Keller rieslings. I expect that one day a significant percentage of this particular wine will be sold off at auction, as this seems a logical venue for a wine which is so highly sought after and made in such limited quantity. I would of course be very pleased to have a handful of bottles of G-Max in my own cellar, but am very much content to have a good representation of the other four riesling Grosses Gewächs instead. For all five of these grand cru rieslings are as good as dry riesling gets, with only a couple of examples the world over that can compete with these utterly profound wines. 

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Written Notes

Pale gold with green lights. This takes me back to the Kirchspiel in its greater subtlety on the nose compared with the Hubacker and AbtsE. It smells rich and golden, smells of wealth and luxury, but not in a showy way. Bitter orange, ripe pear, spiced lemons, but they are expressed in a way that you have to look for them and give them time. This is silky in the mouth, rich but light on its feet, spicy but pure-fruited. Full of contrasts that create balance. There is still the smoky spice of the Grosse Gewächse but again it is restrained and all tied up with the purity of fruit. I find this better balanced than the 2017, less extreme and therefore offering more pleasure, should you be lucky enough to be able to find and afford a bottle. Wonderful freshness and precision on the finish. (JH)

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Origin

Mosel, Rheinhessen

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