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Wine Description
The Story
The Kirchspiel is a brilliant terroir, which routinely produces one of the tightest young wines in the cellar and which Klaus-Peter describes as “always a wine of pure finesse and dancing minerality.” The vines at the top of the slope that find their way into the Grosses Gewächs bottling of Kirchspiel were planted in 1964, on the hard limestone section of the vineyard, laced with quartz veins. The result is a wine that delivers lovely, “cool fruit” tones (despite the Hügelland’s high average temperatures and Klaus-Peter’s penchant for harvesting late), brilliant precision, and a base of kaleidoscopic minerality that is almost crystalline in nature. Stylistically, the Keller Kirchspiel reminds me quite strongly of Maison Trimbach’s great Riesling grand cru, the Cuvée Frédéric Émile bottling (particularly on the nose), with perhaps just a touch more German delicacy about it on the palate. The Kirchspiel routinely weighs in around thirteen percent alcohol, and yet is a wine of refined restraint and tremendous felicity to its underlying minerality.