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  • Country ranking ?

    1 037
  • Producer ranking ?

    24
  • Decanting time

    30min
  • When to drink

    Now-2040
  • Food Pairing

    Grilled scallops, Toast Skagen & vol-au-vent

The Tb points given to this wine are the world’s most valid and most up-to-date evaluation of the quality of the wine. Tastingbook points are formed by the Tastingbook algorithm which takes into account the wine ratings of the world's best-known professional wine critics, wine ratings by thousands of tastingbook’s professionals and users, the generally recognised vintage quality and reputation of the vineyard and winery. Wine needs at least five professional ratings to get the Tb score. Tastingbook.com is the world's largest wine information service which is an unbiased, non-commercial and free for everyone.

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The Story

"In the 1950s my grandmother set aside this park-like space next to our house in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ with vines, flowers and fruit trees, for our enjoyment. Realising this outstanding terroir's potential, my family decided to plant the first Pinot Noir vines here in 1964. We tried using the Pinot Noir to make white wine in small Burgundy barrels: an outstanding champagne was about to be born. After several years of painstakingly tending the vines, the 1995 harvest, the first year of this unique cuvée, was remarkable. We called it Le Clos Saint-Hilaire after the patron saint of the church in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. No more than 3,500 to 7,500 bottles are produced each year and each is individually numbered."
François Roland-Billecart, 6th Generation

The one-hectare Clos Saint-Hilaire meets the strictest guidelines: a single enclosed, contiguous parcel with complete winemaking facilities on site. The terroir's magic combined with the wine maker's skills make this wine exceptional. 
Made only from Pinot Noir vinified in casks, it develops an outstanding purity. Billecart-Salmon decided to add very little liqueur, or dosage, after disgorgement in order to let the typicality of the single grape used to make this great wine evolve.

The Clos Saint-Hilaire is a single parcel where the vines, soil and subsoil are carefully tended with respect for the environment. Several years ago, BILLECART-SALMON decided to return to ancestral champagne-making methods in the Clos Saint-Hilaire by using work horses.

This method of maintaining the soil and tending the vines increases porosity and biodiversity: the roots grow deep and the minerals they draw from the soil foster the growth of smaller, more concentrated grapes, revealing the terroir's typical flavour.

This Blanc de Noirs cuvée is vinified in oak casks, allowing the richness of the terroir and the purity of the wine to express itself. For each vintage, there is a limited release of between 3,500 to 6,500 individually numbered bottles, reserved for those very special moments.

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Wine Information

In 2003 they only harvested 4,300 kg of grapes inside the clos, therefore the production was just above 2,700 bottles, which is far less than normally. Finally only 1,000 bottles were labelled under Le Clos Saint-Hilaire label while the rest were left for reserve wine. 

The champagne was aged 15 years on lees, and degorged in July 2019. The dosage was 3.5 g/L.

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Vintage 2003

A challenging vintage for Champagne in the face of an unprecedented heatwave during the summer months. The wines are characterised by the year's unusual circumstances. Large-scale frosts destroyed most of the projected yield and they were followed by hail and an extremely hot summer. Harvest was kick-started early on August 21st and yields remained minuscule at 8,100 kg/ha. Atypically round, ripe, sun-kissed wines that miss freshness and backbone. The total acidity level was notably low, at 5.8 g/l. Only the very best performers were able to avoid heaviness and overripe aromatics. This vintage was not largely declared but some famous names, Krug and Dom Pérignon at the fore, chose to experiment with it. Both produced excellent 2003s and Dom Pérignon's chef de cave at the time named the vintage as one of the creations he is most proud of. Some special cuvées surfaced, such as 2003 by Bollinger, as the house found the year did not stylistically fit into the La Grande Année range. Palmer & Co also took a curious route and made its 2003 only in magnum, releasing it much later than usual as cuvée Grands Terroirs. The ageing capacity of 2003 is much debated. Dom Pérignon's Richard Geoffroy had great confidence in his 2003 and he actually regretted releasing it too early. The jury is still out, but personally I am inclined to drink mine sooner rather than later, as the advancement post-disgorgement has in most cases been rather rapid and the wines miss the acidic backbone necessary for retaining freshness.

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Average Bottle Price

2020
320€

This data comes from the FINE Auction Index, a composite of average prices for wines sold at commercial auctions in 20 countries. The average prices from each year have been collected since 1990. This chart plots the index value of the average price of the wines.

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Written Notes

Smallest production at 1000 bottles. At the time, Matthieu thought he’d be downgrading 2003, the year of the heatwave, but the heat doesn’t show in the wine. Alcohol level at picking 11.1, dosage 3.5 g/l, disgorged July 2019. Concentrated, rich and intense with lovely toasty richness and some nutty characters, as well as dried herbs and a touch of honey. Lovely depth to the pear and peach fruit on the palate with some citrus brightness coupled with broad, rich flavours. Very expressive with some lovely depth and roundness, but with a spicy framing. 95/100

  • 95p

The 2003 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire is a tiny release of just 1,000 bottles. A Champagne of substance and power, the Clos Saint-Hilaire shows the exoticness of the warm vintage and yet has a good deal of supporting energy. I can't wait to see how it ages. The breadth and texture of Pinot come through so well. Dosage is 3.5 grams per liter.

  • 95p
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Information

Origin

Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Champagne

Grapes

100% Pinot Noir

Drinking temperature

7-9C

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