x
  • Decanting time

    1h
  • When to drink

    Now
  • Food Pairing

    Salads

The Story

The Montrachet family consists of grand five Grands Crus grown in the two villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet. These two share the Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet appellations. Chevalier and Bienvenues belong to Puligny, Criots belongs to Chassagne. These Grands Crus are the most southerly of the Côte-d'Or, and lie between Meursault in the north and Santenay in the south. Their origins go back to the Middle Ages - the work of the Cistercian abbey of Maizières and the Lords of Chagny. The wines of Montrachet (pronounced Mon-rachay) came fully into their own in the 17th century. There is no argument : this is the finest expression of the Chardonnay grape anywhere on earth. The Grand Cru appellations date from 31 July, 1937.

 

The underlying rocks date from the Jurassic, 175 million years BC. Exposures lie to the east and the south. Altitudes: 265-290 metres (Chevalier) ; 250-270 metres (Montrachet) ; 240-250 metres (Bâtard, Bienvenues, Criots). In the " Climat " of Montrachet, the soils are thinnish and lie on hard limestone traversed by a band of reddish marl. In Chevalier, the soils are thin and stony rendzinas derived from marls and marly-limestones. In the Bâtard " climat " soils are brown limestone which are deeper and, at the foot of the slope, more clayey. 

 

The power and aromatic persistence of these lofty wines demands aristocratic and sophisticated dishes with complex textures : « pâté » made from fattened goose liver, of course, and caviar. Lobster, crawfish, and large wild prawns, with their powerful flavours and firm textures, pay well-deserved homage to the wine and match its opulence. Firm-fleshed white fish such as monkfish would be equally at home in their company. And let us not forget well-bred and well-fattened free-range poultry whose delicate flesh, with the addition of a cream-and-mushroom sauce, will be lapped up in the unctuous and noble texture of this wine. Even a simple piece of veal, fried or in sauce, would be raised to heavenly heights by the Montrachet's long and subtle acidity.

Serving temperature : 12 to 14 °C.

 

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Written Notes

The 1957 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is easily the oldest bottle I have encountered from the domaine. This vintage was blighted by a severe late-spring frost that almost entirely decimated the Chardonnay crop. I discovered that it was also a significant vintage for Ramonet because it marks the first time that Pierre Ramonet’s brother Claude helped make the wine. Claude Ramonet is not as well-known as Pierre and his grandsons Noël and Jean-Claude. Claude never had any children and passed away in 1977. Presumably he worked alongside his brother, who ran the domaine up until 1984. The bottle was tatty in appearance, much of the label torn away over the years, though thankfully with sufficient information left intact to identify year and cuvée, along with Ramonet’s distinctive crest. First I noticed the wine’s refulgence. Yes, there was a slight burnished hue, but the glass seemed to glow. The bouquet remains vigorous, offering dried honey, marmalade and overripe satsumas, as well as traces of melted wax and lanolin. The palate does not disguise some oxidation, which began creeping into the nose during the 15–20 minutes I spent with the wine, touches of flor developing with time. There is impressive weight and concentration, and plenty of energy given the wine’s age. The finish is quite robust, nutty and overtly saline, though frayed by the passing years; it does not quite convey the class of the aromatics. Overall, this 62-year-old Bâtard-Montrachet defies the traumatic growing season of its birth and, decades later, manages to leave an indelible impression – a wine that has decayed but retains a firm foundation. 92/Drink 2020-2028.

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Information

Origin

Beaune, Burgundy

Other wines from this producer

Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet

Bourgogne Chardonnay

Chassagne-Montrachet A.O.C

Chassagne-Montrachet "Boudriottes"

Chassagne-Montrachet Clos St-Jean

Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Caillerets"

Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Chaumees"

Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Ruchottes"

Chassagne-Montrachet "Morgeot"

Chassagne-Montrachet "Vergers"

Chevalier-Montrachet

Montrachet

Puligny-Montrachet

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canets

Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres

St Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly

St. Aubin 1er Cru Les Charmois

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