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Wine Description
The Story
“The RSRV range is above all a matter of emotions, a state of mind. More than just wine, each RSRV champagne is a moment shared with those you love.”
Champagne house G.H. Mumm has done something rather shocking. It’s released not just one but four new wines in one stroke, and there’s a fifth on the way. To further complicate matters, one of them is a re-branding of an existing wine: the Mumm de Cramant Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage. This is being re-released as a vintage wine.
First, there are two RSRV wines (a short-hand for ‘reserve’, it seems): 2012 RSRV Grand Cru Blancs de Blancs (100% chardonnay from Cramant; it would retail for AUD $225 but has been earmarked for restaurants), and 2008 RSRV Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs (100% pinot noir from Verzenay; AUD $240 theoretical retail price). These are very good, but the blanc de noirs is my favourite because if its richness and matured complexity. The blanc de blancs is still very tight, lean, restrained and singular: the classic ‘solo violin’ as opposed to the ‘full orchestra’, which would be a typical Champagne blend of regions and grape varieties. When I opined that the wine seemed a little young to be released, Didier disagreed, saying its shorter ageing was “to keep the spirit of the wine”.
Next, there are two Edition Limitée wines. These are non-vintage blends, which have been given extended time aging on their yeast sediments. Edition Limitée 4 Ans en Cave (four years in the cellar; AUD $80 retail; exclusive to Dan Murphy’s) has a lot of brioche-like aromas and is soft and rounded and highly accessible; Edition Limitée 6 Ans en Cave (AUD $95; exclusive to BWS stores) has terrific richness, generosity and character. Didier says these are different blends, both with about 70% pinot noir and the rest chardonnay, no meunier, plus some reserve wines. They are a significant step up from the Cordon Rouge and are sourced from higher-rated vineyards.
Those four are the new releases; they will be joined by a rosé in a few months.
Vintage 2014
This year was all about alternating weather patterns. A particularly wet winter gave way to a warm and dry spring. May saw some rain, and even though late June-brought about a minor heatwave, the remainder of the summer was moist and murky. Disease pressure was lifted but once again fine, hot September weather was able to save and concentrate the crop. A large crop (11,553 kg/ha) was picked from September 8th onwards. The year's biggest problem was the sour rot caused by the drosophila suzukii flies. It, and the challenging weather, demanded plenty of care and selection work in the vineyards. The results are variable. The year was especially demanding for Pinot Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne, which received a lot of rainfall and was troubled by both mildew and sour rot. With an average potential alcohol of 10.0% and total acidity of 8.3 g/l, 2014 looks good on paper and so too in the glass, despite its challenges. The successful wines come with attractive fruit, lovely vibrant acidity and an overt easiness to them.