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Philipponnat Clos des Goisses becomes first Champagne to be sold via La Place

Though small, the release is likely to send ripples through Bordeaux, Champagne and the broader fine-wine world.

On 21 September, one of the oldest and most famous Champagne houses, Philipponnat (present in Champagne since 1522), will release two vintages of its iconic Clos des Goisses, undoubtedly one of the world’s greatest wines.

This first release will be small and only four negociants have been selected for an allocation. The wines will undoubtedly sell out almost instantaneously.

The two Champagnes chosen for this first release are the exceptional new 2012 vintage of Clos des Goisses (arguably the best vintage in the last 20 years) and the still rarer late-released ‘LV’ (long vieillissementmillésime 1996. Both were disgorged this spring (in April and March respectively).

I was lucky enough to visit Philipponnat last week during the harvest of the 2021 Clos des Goisses itself, to taste these exquisite and exceptional wines and to talk with proprietor Charles Philipponnat about the timing and strategy for their release on la place.

Interestingly, if perhaps unsurprisingly, it was la place that came to Philipponnat rather than Philipponnat to la place. But, crucially, Charles Philipponnat tells me, it was they who ultimately chose both their courtier and the four negociants to whom they have entrusted an allocation of the new releases.

Those allocations are small so as not to disrupt long-standing relationship with existing distributors.

The aim of the project is two-fold:

  • to broaden further the already impressively global distribution of Clos des Goisses (with a distribution in 45 countries already); and, no less significantly,
  • to achieve a still finer-grained allocation of their wines to the true champagne-lover (the French word amateur captures this better but is practically impossible to translate), to restaurants and to the hotel sector.

Charles Philipponnat talks about this in terms of the capilarité that la place can offer. This, too, is not easily conveyed in English. Essentially, he means, the capacity to take a given allocation and to partition it in such a way as to place smaller quantities of each wine in the hands of a larger number of clients.

And the overall aim of that, of course, is to ensure that these precious and rare wines are, ultimately, drunk and appreciated. As such the hope is to deploy the considerable resources that la place has to offer to reinforce rather than to change in any significant way the long-standing strategy of the house.

What is clear, particularly after tasting the wines, is that they deserve their place on la place alongside the very best that Bordeaux has to offer.

 

For Charles Philipponnat, the 16th generation of his family to direct the property, Philipponnat’s wines, above all Clos des Goisses itself, are somewhat closer in conception and philosophy to the leading crus of Pomerol than they are to the typically much larger volume production of the left-bank classed growths.

These are wines sensitively crafted from their specific and distinct terroirs that seek to capture their singular expression in each vintage.

The result is a unique style that is at the same time supremely vinous, intense and concentrated and yet profoundly fresh and dynamic. The vines themselves are harvested relatively late and at full maturity to capture as much potential for complexity as possible.

There is typically no malolactic fermentation so as to lock in as much natural freshness and acidity as possible and, in so doing, to balance the natural power of the terroir, building in the process the tension and poise that is the very signature of Philipponnat. And the wine-making is respectful and non-interventionist, with somewhat lower oak usage than previously and, in general, low dosage.

This style finds its purest and most supreme expression in Clos des Goisses (as indeed in the very rare micro-cuvée of Clos des Goisses, Les Cintres, released last in the 2010 vintage).

The first vintage of a Champagne bearing the name Clos des Goisses dates from the early 1950s. But its history pre-dates even that. For Clos des Goisses was, in fact, both the first Clos and the first single-vineyard Champagne to be vinified separately – first, by the Bouché family of Mareuil-sur-Ay from the 1880s until the 1930s and then, from 1935, by the Philipponnat family following its acquisition.

The name itself was coined in the early 1950s by the founder of La Revue du Vin de France, Raymond Baudouin, a great admirer of the grands crus of Burgundy.

In keeping with that reputation and that association, Clos des Goisses has consistently provided the very best evidence for the argument that the greatest Champagne comes from the greatest (single) terroirs, rather than from a blend of vineyards and a blend of terroirs.

It is perhaps the most vinous of all of the great Champagnes and there is little doubting the singularity and exceptional character of the terroir it expresses.

The vineyard is the largest Clos in the appellation, at 5.83 hectares; it slopes steeply downwards to the Marne river valley with an inclination of up to 45 degrees; its exposure is pure South and, as such, it is generally regarded as the warmest vineyard in the entire appellation – perfect for the Pinot Noir that thrives on its thin soil over the pure chalk bedrock beneath.

It is hardly surprising that Peter Liem should refer to it as “arguably the greatest vineyard site in all of Champagne”.

 

ENVIRONMENT : PHILIPPONNAT, CHAMPION OF THE ULTRA REASONNABLE STRUGGLE

In charge of a 49 acres vineyard, Charles Philipponnat wishes to highlight quality. « We have been working with quality in mind for the past 15 years. This is achieved through small details, such as wooden stick at the start of each rank, fiberwood clips or paper ties. More important, we have chosen to grow exclusively black Pinot. We use field selections from Burgundy origins, with lesser performance, but better maturing qualities. We only use organic fertilizers, and we arrange grassy banks along with wild hedgerows to help developp wildlife. All the weeds clearing is done manually, without chemicals, and the out of reeach part of the Clos de Goisses is done by hand, using a finger weeder. »


This former Sciences Po graduate can go on and on about this subject bound to become the company’s main communication strategy.
« This certification helps put forward our way of doing things, even if the quality of our wines is our best advocate. We are not a « bio » winery, but close enough, because we do ban totally the use of copper sulfate, much more toxic in our opinion than the synthetic products available to fight off Mildiou, the vineyard’s worts ennemy in mild climates ».

BY JEAN-BAPTISTE DUTEURTRE

Sulje

Historia

The Philipponnat family, owners of the award-winning vineyard, have been in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ since 1522. In 1935, the founder of the champagne house, Pierre Philipponnat, bought the 5.5-hectare vineyard, and created Champagne’s first clos wine in 1947. Today, the house belongs to Lanson–BCC’s portfolio and is managed by Charles Philipponnat, who is also the winemaker charged with the peculiar task of trying to tame the wild style of Clos des Goisses. He is the man who returned the wines into oak barrels, but it is very difficult to detect the influence of that move, as even the steel tank-fermented vintages develop an oak-like bouquet as they age. The unique steep slope by the canal in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ is planted with 70 per cent Pinot Noir and 30 per cent Chardonnay, but most vintages contain 65 per cent Pinot Noir, as a small portion of the grapes end up in other cuvées. In some years, the house also produces a rare but unexciting still red from the crop. Even rarer and much more exciting are the 200 bottles of still Chardonnay that Philipponnat produces each year for its own use.

Sulje

Viiniviljelykset

Philipponnat owns 18 hectares of vines and farms another two under a sharecropping agreement, all of which are located in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Aÿ, Avenay Val d’Or and Mutigny. Mareuil-sur-Aÿ makes up the majority of the house’s holdings, and their 11 hectares there include the magnificent, 5.5-hectare Clos des Goisses, Champagne’s most renowned vineyard site, from which they make a vintage-dated, single-vineyard champagne. The house has traditionally fermented all wines in tank or old oak foudres, but since 2000 the Clos des Goisses has been partially (40 to 50 percent) fermented in 228-liter oak barrels. Some barrel-fermented wine can be used for other cuvées as well, and this is likely to increase in the future. In 2004, Philipponnat completed a new winery next to the cellars in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ to accommodate all of the winemaking, and this has undoubtedly resulted in an improvement in quality, as in the past their presshouse was located in Reims. While the Clos des Goisses is always made without malolactic, the other champagnes contain a portion of malolactic wines depending on the cuvée and the vintage.
 

Sulje

Viinivalmistus

Since taking over in 1999, Charles has returned Philipponnat to its last Golden Age, 1913-1962, when Louis Boland was chef de caves. Boland's wines were the essence of Pinot Noir from the house's vineyards in the Montagne de Reims. Charles' Champagnes also fully exploit these prized vineyards, and the resulting wines revel in their Pinot-infused glory.

Under Charles, Philipponnat's wines aren't just more intense, they're also fresher (due to using only first-pressing Chardonnay). And to the traditional tank and foudre fermentation, Charles has added smaller neutral barrels for more depth and complexity. To maximize their character, the non-vintage wines age for 3 years en tirage, while the vintage cuvées spend from 5 to 10 years on the lees.

Through great vision, technical skill and perfectionist attention to detail–and the pride of five centuries of tradition–Charles has created a range of Champagnes with few peers for quality and character. This ranges from the towering Clos des Goisses to the superb Royale Réserve and Reserve Rosé, two of the finest non-vintage brut Champagnes on the market today.

Sulje

Sisäpiiritietoa

I always find this impressive world-class wine one of the most elusive and perplexing wines out there. Sometimes I don’t get it and ask myself whether I’ve overestimated its potential, only to wonder the next time how I could have underrated this uncut diamond. Why is it like that? The most obvious explanation is that we are dealing with a “slow starter”; a real cellar wine that needs decades to fully unfurl its colourful peacock’s tail. But assuming that time by itself can explain the phenomenon would be to trivialise this single-vineyard wine’s dual personality.

For me, it is Champagne’s number one still white wine, together with Giraud’s Aÿ Blanc. For the sake of precision, it might be proper to note that this, one of Champagne’s finest vineyards, is not a grand cru and only has premier cru status. A serious flaw in the system, it seems. Recently of an evening I brought together a small group of like-minded Clos des Goisses fans to taste the last seven vintages. It was very obvious that the simple 2001 had the most linear development in that set. This phenomenon leads to there being highly diverse personal descriptions even when wine experts try to capture the vineyard’s true essence. I think timing is a key factor, even more so than usual, when enjoying Clos de Goisses. If you have no idea what phase the wine is at, it is best to be sure and wait until the wine’s 20-year mark. Then the characteristic nuttiness and cakey tones will stand out in one way or another. If you lack the patience for that, invest in lesser-known vintages, which mature sooner. Regardless of the vintage, remember always to decant Clos des Goisses and serve it with carefully considered food. Decanting a champagne can be tricky, as it is crucial to cool down the carafe to the same temperature as the bottle, and to have a very steady pouring hand so as not to lose too much of its sparkle. Our chef Carl Ljung very skilfully combined veal, mushrooms, seaweed, turbot, puy lentils, duck liver and Comté fondue with these gastro-friendly wines. Let your Goisses rest in the cellar until the autumn chill and use it to crown magnificent winter dinners with its deep, golden majesty.

Richard Juhlin

Sulje

Tilalta löytyy 20 erilaista viiniä 145 vuosikerralla

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