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  • Country ranking ?

    716
  • Producer ranking ?

    9
  • Decanting time

    20min
  • When to drink

    now to 2035
  • Food Pairing

    poulard with morel mushrooms

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The Story

Belonging exclusively to Philipponnat, the Clos des Goisses is an exceptional vineyard of 5,5 Ha enclosed by walls, with an impressive gradient of 30 to 45°, facing full south, where Philipponnat produces the most powerful of Champagne wines. Always vintaged, very lightly dosed, this uncommon wine is characterized by incredible length and body, in which Pinot Noir characteristics predominate. This fabulous wine for great occasions, extraordinarily mineral and intense is also a marvelous companion for gastronomy matching game, mushrooms and even cheeses.

Vinification: Wine-making for Clos des Goisses is totally traditional. Its only originality resides in the absence of malo-lactic fermentation, which is systematically avoided. Thus, the wine maintains a vivacity and freshness that balances its alcoholic strength, its intensity, its roundness without masking any of its body and aromas and, on the contrary, contributes to its persistence. Wood, in this elaboration philosophy, is only partially used (30%); rather as a minor element in blending only there to increase complexity.

Aging: Very mature and intense, Clos des Goisses is an open, aromatic wine, although closed when young. Ageing in our own cellars is not so much destined to round it out, but rather to add still greater dimension and complexity. Ideal ageing is from 8 to 10 years, the prime of life for Clos des Goisses. At this age, the wine attains its greatest complexity without having lost its freshness. It is at this point that degorgement is carried out and the wine readied for sale. The structure of the wine is such that it will age gracefully for decades if kept in an adequate environment (cool and dark). One should not be afraid to decant Clos des Goisses before service to let the wine reveal its full potential.

Clos des Goisses could only be served with meals as it is a wine in the truest sense of the term. It marries perfectly with foie gras, truffles, red meats, game and dishes with sauce. A wine as much as a Champagne, Clos des Goisses deserves to be put into a decanter. With in the ample curves of a ewer, it reaches its full potential as a fine wine: aromatic power, finesse and voluptuousness. Contrary to the preconceived notion that Champagne does not improve with age, this Champagne is perfectly suited to ageing and may he kept for more than 10 years.

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Wine Information

Clos des Goisses is divided into 14 plots, of which only the four best of 2011 were included in this blend.

For the first time composed solely of Pinot Noir, due to the uprooting of Chardonnay vines in certain plots just before 2011, and the atypical and exceptionally floral aromatic profile of the vintage’s Pinot Noirs.

Vinification

Clos des Goisses is a walled vineyard of 5.8 hectares, one of the few “clos” of the region. It is not only the oldest but also the steepest in Champagne. In a perfect position facing due south, it stands on the best hillside in Mareuil-sur-Ay It really is an exceptional terroir where the chalky bedrock is very close to the surface. Partial vinification in wooden barrels (80%) leads to more complexity without premature oxidation. There is no malolactic fermentation, which enables the natural acidity of the wine to balance the powerful character of the terroir.

Aging

Aged at least eight years, at a constant temperature of 12°C in the House’s historic cellars in Mareuil-sur-Ay. The very low, Extra-Brut dosage (4.25 g/litre) gives full expression to the vinosity and minerality of this exceptional vineyard.

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Vintage 2012

2012 was deemed one of the best vintages the Champagne region has ever experienced. “The quality and the intensity are definitely there to make an outstanding vintage,” Dom Perignon chef de cave Richard Geoffroy told Decanter. The base wines show a lovely richness as well as the acidity needed to make outstanding and long-lived Champagnes. Yields are very low, in some places half of the allowed production.

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Latest Pro-tasting notes

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Written Notes

Launched 21 September 2021. Export director Thomas Jorez describes this as a wonderful vintage, very concentrated, which suits the style of Clos des Goisses: 'we don't make light and shy'. After a cold winter, yields were reduced by severe frost – not as severe in the Clos as in other Philipponnat vineyards because of the location – and then cold weather at flowering that led to coulure. They produced just 13,000 bottles from 5.83 ha. The fruit was ripe because the crop was so small – riper and with higher alcohol potential than in 2003. Harvested at 11.5% potential alcohol but with balancing acidity. pH 3.08, TA 7.75 g/l (cf 5 g/l in 2003 and > 9 g/l in 1996). More Chardonnay than usual in 2012: 61% Pinot Noir, 39% Chardonnay. 62% of the base wine is barrel fermented (barrels from new to eight years old). Dosage the same every year – 4.5 g/l – so that the differences are as much as possible to do with the vintage. Disgorged late March 2021. According to Charles Philipponnat, this is one of his best vintages this century. Starting this year, a small amount of Clos des Goisses will be sold on the Bordeaux Place – to try to reach more markets even if the volumes are small, and to get the wine to those who really appreciate it. The négociants on the Place will not be allowed to sell to established markets with existing importers such as the UK.


This has the lovely ripe Clos des Goisses style in full: aromas of apricot, honey and toast. It is rich and concentrated and yet still has excellent freshness. Jorez points to an aroma of raspberry seed, which is spot on. I pick up raspberry sorbet and a hint of ginger as it opens in the glass. It is intense and fresh in the mouth, gently toasty.  Rounded, deep and long with a lovely fruit sweetness. Creamy, powerful and yet seems gentle next to the late disgorged 1996 LV. This was a great accompaniment to truffle flatbread on the evening I tasted it. Still so young and with great ageing potential. (JH)

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Information

Origin

Mareuil-sur-Ay, Champagne

Other wines from this producer

Blanc de Noirs

Brut Réserve vintage

Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé

Clos des Goisses L.V.

Clos des Goisses Vinothèque

Cuvée 1522

Cuvée 1522 Brut

Cuvée 1522 Brut Rosé

Cuvée Mareuil-sur-Ay

Grand Blanc vintage

Grand Blanc Vintage

Les Cintres

Royale Réserve

Royale Réserve Non Dosé

Royale Réserve Rosé

Royale Réserve Vintage

Sublime Réserve

Inside Information

Historically the first clos and first terroir to be vinified and blended separately, Clos des Goisses is unique and instantly recognisable for its extremely steep slope. It is not only the oldest walled vineyard in the Champagne region, but also the steepest. In fact, its slope reaches 45°, hence the origin of its name: in the local dialect, «Gois» means a very steep slope. This exceptional terroir with chalky soil is ideally situated facing due South, on the best hillside in Mareuil-sur-Ay.

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Highlights

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