Wine Advocate #207
Jun 2013 |
Luis Gutierrez |
94 |
Drink: 2013 - 2023 |
$260-$500 (400) |
Vega Sicilia’s 2003 Unico, mainly Tempranillo with a balancing 8% of Cabernet Sauvignon, was aged in wood for nearly seven years before being bottled, starting with 15 months in large oak vats, followed by 25 months in new barriques, before being transferred to used ones for another 17 months and ending its elevage with a further 22 months in those large wood vats again. As I uncork the bottle, the aroma reminds me of a classical Tempranillo, with some dill notes from the American oak and a minty hint from the Cabernet. It actually makes me think of traditional Rioja, believe it or not. The wine doesn’t show the heat of the vintage, and manages to transmit a general sensation of balance and finesse that is quite remarkable for the characteristics of the year. The aim here was to avoid the confited and raisiny notes of the fruit and the spirity character so common in that vintage. It starts off slightly lactic, with notes of cafe au lait, coconut and cola. With a bit of time, it turns more flowery and shows more red fruit. It is very aromatic, with plenty dry herbs, thyme and rosemary, even pine nuts, a bit of resin and some cured meat, and overall has a very complex nose. The mouth is a little more transparent toward the heat of the vintage, it is powerful and full-bodied, but manages to keep freshness. The minty note is there, with some hints of chalk that make it very tasty. It feels briary and opulent. A success over the vintage conditions, it already shows some signs of complexity, which points at an approachable Unico. Even though it can be drunk now, it will get more polished and integrated with a few years in bottle. 76,050 bottles and 2,616 magnums were filled (on the low-ish side for Unico), but the magnums will be sold later; they are currently offering 2000 in magnum and 1999 in double-magnum. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023.
2003 presented many challenges to winegrowers and winemakers throughout Europe, with one of the most intense summer heat waves in modern times. Ribera del Duero was no exception, suffering a warm and dry summer, which for Unico resulted in both an early and quick harvest between September 20 and 26 (when traditional harvesting dates would have been around mid-October). |
The forging of the Myth
In 1864, Eloy Lecanda founded the winery that symbolises the golden legend of Spanish red wine.
Throughout its long history, it has belonged to different owners, although it has always maintained an
unquestionable personality, making concentrated, mature, generous and extremely elegant.
Discover how a unique myth in European wine culture is forged.
1848. Acquisition of land
The history of this estate began in 1848, when Toribio Lecanda, a landowner of Basque origin, bought a
2,000 hectare estate used for agriculture and cattle farming from the Marquis of Valbuena.
1864. Vega Sicilia founded
Eloy, son of Toribio Lecanda, founder of the Vega Sicilia winery in 1864, bought 18,000 shoots of cabernet
sauvignon, malbec, merlot and pinot noir in Bordeaux, to be used in the making of brandy and ratafias. In
1876, in the Philadelphia Fair, Lecanda obtained a quality certificate for his brandies. That same year, he
succeeded in achieving the position as supplier to the Royal Family, and in 1880, he obtained the Grand
Cross of Isabel the Catholic; all before the birth of the red wine that was to make the company famous.
1904. The incorporation of Domingo Garramiola
With the estate having been acquired by the Herrero family, it is rented to Cosme Palacio, who creates the
winery of Domingo Garramiola, a person who is crucial to the history of Vega Sicilia.
Domingo Garramiola Txomin was born in Marquina-Echevarría on 1st October 1878. In Vega Sicilia,
Domingo used Bordeaux techniques for making wine. He renewed the aging casks and, above all, made
great efforts in cleaning the wine presses.
1915. The birth of two exceptional wines
The hard work of Txomin Garramiola gave fruit in 1915, with the birth of two exceptional wines: Vega
Sicilia and Valbuena. These wines followed along the lines of the Rioja wines of the day: lengthy aging in
vats and wooden casks and bottled to order.
The distribution of these first bottles began among the upper class bourgeoisie and the aristocracy, but not
for commercial purposes. The owners of the winery offered this wine as a gift to the good friends of the
family. Thus began the forging of the legend of Spain ́s most exclusive wine, as it cannot be bought with
money, but only with friendship.
1929. Prize at the World Fair
The wines of Vega Sicilia reached great public recognition thanks to prizes such as that of the World Fair
in Barcelona in 1929, awarded to the 1917 and 1918 harvests.
1933. The Death of Domingo Garramiola
Surrounded by his family in his house in Vega Sicilia, Domingo Garramiola died in 1933. The winemaker
left a very personal stamp on the best classic Spanish wine. The responsibility of continuing with his work
fell on his closest collaborator, Martiniano Renedo.
1956- The arrival of Jesús Anadón to Vega Sicilia
Jesús Anadón joined the wineries in 1956. He was to be director of the company for several decades and
his incorporation was transcendental to Vega Sicilia and he started up the Ribera del Duero Designation of
Origin.
1982. The Álvarez family acquired Bodegas Vega Sicilia
The current stage began in 1982, when David Álvarez acquired the winery and the vineyards from the
Venezuelan businessman Miguel Neumann. Since that year, the Álvarez Mezquíriz family has developed a
policy of harmonisation of present innovative techniques required by the wine sector with the traditional
winemaking process. The vineyard area has been extended and a modernisation process has taken place
both in and out of the winery.Venezuelan businessman Miguel Neumann.
Since that year, the Álvarez Mezquíriz family has developed a policy of harmonisation of present innovative techniques
required by the wine sector with the traditional
winemaking process. The vineyard area has been extended and a modernisation process has taken place
both in and out of the winery.
1985. The retirement of Jesús Anadón
The retirement of Jesús Anadón meant the leaving of a man who assumed his responsibilities as director
and oenologist of Vega Sicilia in a highly personal way. On his departure, Pablo Álvarez took full
possession of the general management of the winery; the oenology area was taken on by Mariano García,
who had been Jesús Anadón ́s assistant since joining the company in 1968.
1998. Consolidation of a team of expert oenologists
1998 saw the incorporation of Xavier Ausás into the technical management of the winery group after
working for six years as oenologist in Vega Sicilia. Xavier, together with his sister Mercedes, and Begoña
Jovellar, is the father, master and educator of the company ́s wines.
1992. Creation of Bodegas Alión
Investigations led to the doors of Bodegas Liceo, a company founded in 1990 and located in Peñafiel
(Valladolid). The winery had just begun and had all the technological requirements required. After lengthy
discussion, the family acquired the winery on 5th November 1992.
Alión was born; a name laden with emotion as it corresponds to the town of León in which the family
patriarch, David Álvarez, was born.
1993. The Álvarez family arrives in Hungary
In 1993, Vega Sicilia founds Tokaj Oremus. The personality of the Álvarez family adds to the historic
tradition of both wines. Pablo Álvarez, managing director of Vega Sicilia, is also responsible for this new
project. The wine is studied in great detail and with great respect, together with its significance, its
laborious winemaking process, historical practices... An experienced team of professionals with good
knowledge of the region ́s wines is also sought.
From the moment the vineyards were founded to present day, the Álvarez family, respecting the Tokaj
traditions, has made considerable investment in Tokaj Oremus with a view to increasing the technical level
of the treatment of the grape and the winemaking installations, so as to make the best wines possible. The
objective of the Álvarez family is to give its former grandeur to this vineyard, which is one of the best
situated, the most emblematic and significant of Tokaj.
2000. Primum Familiae Vini and Vega Sicilia
Primum Familiae Vini, and organisation formed by the twelve family-run wineries of the highest
international prestige, which includes Vega Sicilia, held its annual reunion on the state, presided by Pablo
Álvarez.
The year 2000 was also the year which saw the end of the renovation and modernisation process of the
winery.
2001. Purchase and constitution of Bodegas Alquiriz
Bodegas Alquiriz is the new project that is to promote Vega Sicilia. The desire of the Álvarez family is to
make the best Toro wine, a designation that gives wines body, exoticism, an explosion of aromas, and a
modern personality and character.
For this, since the harvest of 1997, 70 hectares of vineyard have been bought in different places within the
Designation of Origin. After four years ́ study of the concept of the wine, it is begun to be made in 2001 for
commercial purposes. The strategy of this new winery is common to all those in the group: make wines
with personality and high quality, which implies limited production of wine.