Clive Coates MW

Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos Des Ruchottes, 1990 /The firm of Thomas-Bassot used to own just over two hectares of Ruchottes-Chambertin. The family sold this when they wound up the company after the death of the heir apparent in a car crash in 1976 and the buyers were Dr. Georges Mugneret of Vosne-Romanée, a M. Bonnefond of Rouen, who set up a share-cropping arrangement with Christophe Roumier of Chambolle-Musogny, and Charles Rousseau, who acquired just over a full hectare, making him the largest owner in this steep, much fragmented vineyard. Rousseau has the exclusivity of the Clos des Ruchottes.

Ruchottes lies above Mazis, in leaner, cooler soil, and the wine can be correspondingly a little austere. This, however, from the celebrated and warm 1990 vintage, is splendidly lush and generous. Even at 25 years there is not a trace of age about it. A very fine wine.

Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, 1999 Comte Georges de Vogué / Given that the Domaine de Vogué owns over 7 hectares of the 10.65 extent of Le Musigny and 56 ares of the 5 hectares Les Amoureuses, not to mention 2.7 hextares of Bonnes Mares, we are among one of the greatest domaines in the Côtes d'Or. Since the mid-1980s this estate has hardly put a foot wrong. Here in 1999 we are  at the very highest Burgundy can achieve.

This is a very lovely wine. Full, rich, powerful, yet with the usual Chambolle delicacy and spectacular concentration of fruit. It apears to be only just ready, but seemingly there is a lifetime ahead of it. Brilliant!

Graham's Vintage Port 1970 / 20 points /Fulllish colour, just about mature. Full, firm nose. Still undeveloped. Still a bit closed. The complete wine. Fullish, just about ready. Real depth. Excellent depth. Excellent complex fruit. Delicious.

Montrachet, 2002 Domaine Des Comtes Lafon.
Montrachet, please notice. No Le, as the plot is on the Chassagne side. Here was a wine which took its time to come out of the glass. At first I was a little underwhelmed, but after ten minutes or so, the richness, concentration, and indeed a succulence almost like a red wine, began to appear. We have something which is quite oaky, still quite youthful, full bodied and very classy indeed: the depth unmistakably of a grand cru. Quite splendid!

Richebourg 1999 Domaine Méo Camuzet / The Méo Camuzet domaine holds adjoining land in Vosne-Romanée, Les Brulées,  Richebourg and Vosne-Romanée, Cros Parentoux, going up the hill. This is the grandest of the three. Full bodied, still very vigorous, with a certain amount of residual tannin, and rich, sturdy and profound. It develops splendidly in the glass to provide a wine of real dimension and class. A very fine bottle. 

Le Montrachet, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2009 / Quite a lot of new wood masks the flavour and character of the wine on the nose. Plus there is a bit of reduction. I don't find the grip, depth and class I am expecting in Le Montrachet. The follow through is a bit weak. No better than very good today.

Meo Camuzet Richebourg 1999 / This is a full-bodied, vigorous, concentrated and quite oaky wine; still very youthful. Splendid fruit, almost sweet, with very good grip and a very long finish. There is a lot of wine here, and it is of very fine qualty. It will still keep for ages.