Unlike most Burgundian estates, whether they have been bottling for a number of decades or only embarked on this path recently, the Domaine Dujac is a recent creation. It dates from 1968. Jacques Seysses, the founder, is in his early 70s, and has now taken a back seat in favour of his sons Jeremy and Alec and Jeremy's wife Diana, a trained wine chemist (oenologue). They have been working as a trio now for a few vintages. Have things changed? Should we expect more radical differences in the wines to come compared with the Dujacs of old? I went up to Morey-Saint-Denis to find out.
In the Morey-Saint-Denis appellation, Clos Saint-Denis is sandwiched between Clos de la Roche to the north and Clos des Lambrays to the south.
The Clos Saint-Denis vineyard is divided among four Lieux-dits: Clos Saint Denis 2.18 ha (5.4 acres); Calouere 1.29 ha (3.2 acres); Les Chaffots 1.33 ha (3.3 acres) and Maison Brulee 1.82 ha (4.5 acres) and is centered at about 951 feet in elevation. It is one of 5 Grand Cru vineyards in the appellation. Only Pinot Noir is planted.
Around 1015, Lord Humbert de Vergy, a rich landowner, took holy orders and later became the Bishop of Paris. In 1023, he founded a Canons Chapter in his castle in Vergy where he had a little church built in honor of Saint Denis, the first bishop of Paris. In 1609, the Canons were granted by Nuits-Saint-Georges to build constructions in the surroundings of the Notre-Dame Chapel. They constructed Clos Saint-Denis.
An indifferent spring caused uneven flowering and mildew risk. At the end of June the weather changed for the better, continuing into July. Apart from local hail in the Côte de Beaune at the end of July, the summer began well. August arrived fairly cold and variable, but fortunately the last week of the month brought fine, warm weather. The lead-up to harvest saw sunny skies, apart from two days of rain in mid-September. A challenging vintage.
From day one the red wines have had a rich, pure fruit character with fine, silky tannins. The whites offer a good balance between ripe fruit and vibrant acidity. A vintage not to be overlooked because the wines deliver potential and pleasure.