Antonio Galloni

“The 2009 Dom Pérignon Rosé marks a return to a richer style of Rosé following the more ethereal 2008 Rosé. Sweet red cherry, blood orange, spice and pomegranate all build in a creamy, sensual DP Rosé that hits all the right spots. Over the last few years, Chef de Caves Vincent Chaperon and his team have lowered the still Pinot portion of the Rosé down to about 10% from a high of 28% or so, reached around 2004 and 2005. In 2009, the Rosé gains considerable textural presence from the generosity of the year. It is a superb Champagne. I preferred it to the 2008, which was also part of this tasting.”

Heidi and Bo Barrett’s 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is fabulous. It offers a compelling interplay of Calistoga richness and the natural energy of the vintage. Sweet dark cherry, plum, spice, cedar, tobacco, licorice, mocha and gravel infuse the 2016 with so much character. The 2016 is deep, but not at all heavy. 

The Dana 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Hershey Vineyard stands out for its classicism and energy, two attributes that aren't always typical of the Dana wines. There is a feeling of translucence to the 2019 that is just breathtaking. Old School meets New World in a riveting, stunning Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon loaded with class and personality. The 2019 Hershey is one of the most elegant and refined wines I have ever tasted at Dana.

The 1970 DRC Romanée-Conti, from magnum, is an unexpected last-minute addition. Tastings at the domaine start with the reds and then end with the Montrachet, so I suppose it is fitting that a tasting focused on Montrachet ends with a red. Fully mature and rough around the edges, the 1970 Romanée-Conti is a bit frayed, but this magnum is in excellent shape. The 1970 is a decidedly burly, somber Romanée-Conti. In most vintages, Romanée-Conti is an intellectual, almost elusive Burgundy. There is little of that here, as the 1970 says everything it has to say pretty much from the outset, but it is refreshing - if that is the right word - to finish a tasting of Montrachet with a good bottle of Romanée-Conti. Perfectly stored bottles and magnums might still hold for a few years, but it does not look like there is anything meaningful to be gained by waiting.

Selvapiana’s 2018 Chianti Rufina is exquisitely beautiful. A wine of translucence and character, the 2018 captures the essence of the vintage in spades. Dark cherry, blood orange, cinnamon, rose petal and mint are all laced together in the glass. The 2018 is effortless and silky, with striking aromatic presence and exceptional balance. This is so impressive. 

I was deeply impressed with the Mount Eden wines in this vertical. To be sure the best wines of the 1980s and 1990s, those made from 1940’s era vines, have a deep fascination. But there are other, more recent, examples that are just as compelling. The 2011, from a very tough and low yielding vintage, or the 2014, made in the middle of a severe drought cycle, are but two examples. Despite Mount Eden’s stellar track record, the wines remain under the radar and exceptionally well-priced given their superb quality and sheer character. I can’t think of too many estates in the world that craft gorgeous, artisan, ageworthy wines at this level that consumers can still afford.

The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Morisoli-Borges Vineyard offers a striking expression of Rutherford.