Mount Edelstone 70th Anniversary Tasting
Panel: Prue and Stephen Henschke, Johann Henschke, Gwyn Olsen
The historic Mount Edelstone Vineyard was first planted in 1912 by Ronald Angas a direct descendant of George Fife Angas; one of the founding fathers of the Province of South Australia. At the time the Barossa was enjoying a boom in wine export sales with huge volumes being sent to the UK and beyond.
According to Stephen and Prue Henschke, the grape vine cuttings were probably sourced from Pewsey Vale. The Angas and Gilbert families were neighbours and friends with similar pastoral interests. Although difficult to verify, the original cuttings for the Mount Edelstone Vineyard may have also derived from Yalumba, the nearest winery (with a grapevine nursery), which was ramping up production. By offering cuttings, it encouraged farmers in the district to plant the right type of grape vines. On account of strict quarantine laws, first introduced in 1875, this material is certainly related to James Busby’s 1832 importation.
A new branch railway line, delayed for over ten years, from Gawler to Angaston, was finally inaugurated in 1911 and promised to stimulate the trade in dried fruits, jams, wine and brandy. Already the winery, which specialised in both port and light table wine production, was sourcing grapes from the Flaxman Valley and South Rhine Districts for ‘its light dry hocks and clarets of a delicate nature.’
The friendship between the Angas and Henschke families, which spans two centuries, were cemented in postwar aspirations, practicality and optimism. In 1949 Paul Alfred Henschke extended the original stone winery to incorporate new fermentation cellars. By the early 1950s parcels of Mount Edelstone Vineyard shiraz were purchased by his son Cyril Henschke leading to the first bottling of a single-vineyard Mount Edelstone Claret in 1952. Four years later the 1956 vintage won first prizes at the Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide wine shows. Already by 1966, French-born wine merchant André Simon and American-born hand surgeon/ vigneron Max Lake had recognised that Mount Edelstone Claret possessed more ‘bouquet ‘and were ‘less gutsy’ than the dry red wines of the Barossa Valley.
The success of the Mount Edelstone Shirazes led to the acquisition of the Mount Edelstone Vineyard in 1974 and from 1989 substantial work was undertaken by Prue Henschke and her team in regenerating the vineyard and improving vine performance. The astonishing restoration of old vines, mass selection of heirloom vinestock (all based on 19th Century genetic material) and transition to organic, bio-dynamic and regenerative practices have all contributed to enhanced fruit definition and balance while safeguarding the vineyard against drought, disease, climate change and other existential threats.
Adaptation and meticulous attention to detail in winemaking, overseen by Stephen Henschke, have taken the Mount Edelstone story from an early postwar starlet to one of Australia’s most significant age worthy wines. Techniques have evolved combining traditional tried and tested methods with advances in technology. Open vinification in headed-down open fermenters and completion of fermentation in oak are typical. Oak maturation has also evolved highlighting a return to outlooks of a previous generation. A sotte voce impact of new oak is preferred with the maturation effect and vineyard character taking precedence.
With its souring aromatics, pure fruit definition, classical claret structure and beautiful flow, Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz captures and defines the essence of Eden Valley’s distinct and unique terroir. Steeped in Barossa wine heritage, it represents the very best of modern Australian winemaking and provenance, while reflecting generations of family purpose, ambition and belonging. I think most people will agree that Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz is one of the classic wines of South Australia. Its stylish quality and singular character – combined with its age-worthy track record – always brings great anticipation and longing!
Read full tasting notes: https://tastingbook.com/pro/andrew_caillard
