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Wine Description
The Story
Clos des Mouches is the beating heart of the Drouhin Family’s life in Burgundy. A subtle vineyard mosaic, an essay in terroir, a symbol of hard work and shared joy, Clos des Mouches has been synonymous with Maison Joseph Drouhin since 1921
This legendary Premier Cru, which produces elegant, subtle, complex, and sublime white and red wines, is the genesis of the family estate.Today, Maurice Drouhin’s vision and commitment to authentic Burgundy, and his singular approach to a very special place, are upheld by the family’s third, fourth and fifth generations. The incredible stories, emotions, and inspiring vintages are why the family holds Clos des Mouches so dear and why it is so closely linked to the Maison’s identity. The hundredth anniversary is not merely a celebration of the past but a recognition of a living heritage that has survived all manner of human endeavors.
Clos des Mouches is located at the southernmost tip of the Beaune appellation, halfway between Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet. Ideally situated on its hill, this vineyard is notable for its terraced mosaic of blocks, each having subtle differences in character according to altitude and orientation. Clos des Mouches takes its name from the many beehives that previous winegrowers once placed in the fields. Strictly translated, a “mouche” is “fly,” but in Burgundy, they are “honey flies,” or more recognizably, “bees.”
In 1957, Maurice Drouhin's son, Robert, took over. Following in his father's footsteps, he grew and modernized the family business. In 1961, he acquired the family's parcels in Musigny, Bonnes-Mares, and Amoureuses. In the late 1960s, Robert's belief in the future of Chablis boldly guided the acquisition of nearly 40 hectares of Grands Crus, Premiers Crus, and villages appellations. In the 1970s, he hired Laurence Jobard, one of the first women oenologists in Burgundy, and in 1987 his visionary approach led the House to the other side of the Atlantic, where, with his daughter Veronique, he founded Domaine Drouhin Oregon. Philippe Drouhin, Robert's eldest son, took over the management of the Drouhin domaines in 1988. Intrigued by Bioversity and deeply concerned by environmental issues, Philippe quickly decided to move the House towards organic farming. The Clos des Mouches served as his ideal laboratory: its terroir is complex, with a significant slope of hills, different orientations, a millefeuille of clay-limestone soils "in platelets" through which the roots weave their way to find their resources. The checkerboard layout of the plots of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and the age of the vines were all criteria allowing Philippe Drouhin to convert first to organic and then fully biodynamic viticulture."I chose the organic route out of personal conviction and technical reasoning, biodynamics to provide additional answers," specifies Philippe Drouhin. "There are still many unknowns about the functioning of soils and vines, but the holistic and gentle approach of biodynamics makes perfect sense to me."In parallel with this viticultural development, Maison Joseph Drouhin has launched a colossal effort to preserve the wine heritage by developing massale selections with other great names in the vineyards through the Association for the Protection of the Diversity of Burgundy Grape Varieties.The fourth generation, and recently the first member of the fifth, Laurène, Véronique's daughter, continues to follow the family's pioneering traditions. Philippe, Véronique, Laurent, and Frédéric Drouhin all occupy key and complementary positions to keep the family business alive and growing. In their pursuit of excellence, they are aided by a dedicated team of women and men who perpetuates the tradition of excellence of the House on a daily basis.
Founded in 1880 by Joseph Drouhin, Maison Joseph Drouhin has always been led by members of the Drouhin family.
For more than a century, the grapes have come from vineyards that have been meticulously selected owing to their perfect exposition, unique character and reputation. Four generations of Joseph Drouhin family have built up a large and one of the most prestigious wine estates in Burgundy. Maison Joseph Drouhin is resolutely committed to a strict observance of tradition and respect for the heritage of Burgundy. The estate comprises 72 hectares of vineyards among the greatest appellations. The true amateur will discover in these wines the Drouhin signature: the originality of the terroir, the finesse of the aromas, the elegance and harmony of the structure and the style of the vintage. The use of biological methods is a profound conviction at Joseph Drouhin. An organic approach, discreet and natural so to let the wine express herself at her best. For many years now, Joseph Drouhin has been experimenting biodynamic methods. Their winemaking process can be described by vigilance, common sense and gentleness in order to allow the wines to express their very best. The mission is to unfold the greatness of Burgundy.
Vintage 1990
1990 VINTAGE in Burgundy
This is probably the vintage of reference for many people in Burgundy. Exceptional climatic conditions allowed an abundant crop to mature perfectly and yield some most sensational wines in both red and white. The white wines have maintained their elegant aromas and freshness which has made them even more appealing, whilst the reds are concentrated and well built with tannins which remain firm but smooth. To be enjoyed for many years to come.
The drought that had plagued farming in 1989 again took its toll in many parts of France in 1990 with the notable exception of the best vineyards in France, including those of Burgundy.This year in the vineyards of the Côte d'Or the weather conditions resembled those of the French Riviera.
At this time, the natural sugar level in the Corton Charlemagne was 14 degrees and in the best vineyards of Corton Grancey the famous "degré 13" was consistently attained. Monsieur Duvaud-Blochet, a famous wine-grower of the 19th century, theorized on this rarely obtained level of sugar declaring that it was undeniably the bench-mark of quality.
A long awaited brief period of rain at the end of August really saved the vintage. The return of sunshine after this short spell of bad weather allowed an already abundant crop to perfectly mature and to yield a considerable quantity of very high quality wines in both reds and whites.
This however does not mean that all 1990 wines will be good. Over-production in some cases, picking prematurely in others, and also the consequences of drought on some slopes had an effect on quality.
The fact remains that all regions of Burgundy have benefitted from three successive fine vintages. 1990 is surely the biggest in size and of a quality which is at least equal to that of 1989.
It is not impossible that in due course we will see the best of the 1990 being of the quality of some of the excellent vintages of the past like `64 and possibly even `59.
It is of the utmost importance for Burgundy to be in a position to offer such a selection of fine wines from recent vintages. The 1988's are still a little austere but are beginning to show all the qualities of a classic vintage. The 89's are plentiful and rich for the whites, charming and easygoing for the reds and the 90's could well be a combination of both.
Nobody knows as yet what will be the effects on prices. What is sure is that any expectation of further price increases is obviously denied by the wine- growers. A healthy decline in the prices compared to those paid last year would be welcomed by the Trade and accepted by them. In due course this will be reflected in the quotations and will help Burgundy to recover its share of the world fine wine markets.