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Wine Description
The Story
Clos des Mouches is the beating heart of the Drouhin Family’s life in Burgundy. A subtle vineyard mosaic, an essay in terroir, a symbol of hard work and shared joy, Clos des Mouches has been synonymous with Maison Joseph Drouhin since 1921
This legendary Premier Cru, which produces elegant, subtle, complex, and sublime white and red wines, is the genesis of the family estate.Today, Maurice Drouhin’s vision and commitment to authentic Burgundy, and his singular approach to a very special place, are upheld by the family’s third, fourth and fifth generations. The incredible stories, emotions, and inspiring vintages are why the family holds Clos des Mouches so dear and why it is so closely linked to the Maison’s identity. The hundredth anniversary is not merely a celebration of the past but a recognition of a living heritage that has survived all manner of human endeavors.
Clos des Mouches is located at the southernmost tip of the Beaune appellation, halfway between Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet. Ideally situated on its hill, this vineyard is notable for its terraced mosaic of blocks, each having subtle differences in character according to altitude and orientation. Clos des Mouches takes its name from the many beehives that previous winegrowers once placed in the fields. Strictly translated, a “mouche” is “fly,” but in Burgundy, they are “honey flies,” or more recognizably, “bees.”
In 1957, Maurice Drouhin's son, Robert, took over. Following in his father's footsteps, he grew and modernized the family business. In 1961, he acquired the family's parcels in Musigny, Bonnes-Mares, and Amoureuses. In the late 1960s, Robert's belief in the future of Chablis boldly guided the acquisition of nearly 40 hectares of Grands Crus, Premiers Crus, and villages appellations. In the 1970s, he hired Laurence Jobard, one of the first women oenologists in Burgundy, and in 1987 his visionary approach led the House to the other side of the Atlantic, where, with his daughter Veronique, he founded Domaine Drouhin Oregon. Philippe Drouhin, Robert's eldest son, took over the management of the Drouhin domaines in 1988. Intrigued by Bioversity and deeply concerned by environmental issues, Philippe quickly decided to move the House towards organic farming. The Clos des Mouches served as his ideal laboratory: its terroir is complex, with a significant slope of hills, different orientations, a millefeuille of clay-limestone soils "in platelets" through which the roots weave their way to find their resources. The checkerboard layout of the plots of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and the age of the vines were all criteria allowing Philippe Drouhin to convert first to organic and then fully biodynamic viticulture."I chose the organic route out of personal conviction and technical reasoning, biodynamics to provide additional answers," specifies Philippe Drouhin. "There are still many unknowns about the functioning of soils and vines, but the holistic and gentle approach of biodynamics makes perfect sense to me."In parallel with this viticultural development, Maison Joseph Drouhin has launched a colossal effort to preserve the wine heritage by developing massale selections with other great names in the vineyards through the Association for the Protection of the Diversity of Burgundy Grape Varieties.The fourth generation, and recently the first member of the fifth, Laurène, Véronique's daughter, continues to follow the family's pioneering traditions. Philippe, Véronique, Laurent, and Frédéric Drouhin all occupy key and complementary positions to keep the family business alive and growing. In their pursuit of excellence, they are aided by a dedicated team of women and men who perpetuates the tradition of excellence of the House on a daily basis.
Founded in 1880 by Joseph Drouhin, Maison Joseph Drouhin has always been led by members of the Drouhin family.
For more than a century, the grapes have come from vineyards that have been meticulously selected owing to their perfect exposition, unique character and reputation. Four generations of Joseph Drouhin family have built up a large and one of the most prestigious wine estates in Burgundy. Maison Joseph Drouhin is resolutely committed to a strict observance of tradition and respect for the heritage of Burgundy. The estate comprises 72 hectares of vineyards among the greatest appellations. The true amateur will discover in these wines the Drouhin signature: the originality of the terroir, the finesse of the aromas, the elegance and harmony of the structure and the style of the vintage. The use of biological methods is a profound conviction at Joseph Drouhin. An organic approach, discreet and natural so to let the wine express herself at her best. For many years now, Joseph Drouhin has been experimenting biodynamic methods. Their winemaking process can be described by vigilance, common sense and gentleness in order to allow the wines to express their very best. The mission is to unfold the greatness of Burgundy.
Vintage 1998
1998 VINTAGE in Burgundy
The 1998 vintage was born under good auspices and has real potential. In spite of the occasional capricious weather conditions, the harvest has given us wines full of promise ? some fruity and seductive, others meaty and more structured.
After brief cold spells in January and February, the vines enjoyed temperatures above the seasonal average in March. This mild weather was interrupted by cold and rainy conditions in early spring. More clement weather returned in May and got growth off to a good start though, later, a slight drop in temperature slowed down the end of the flowering period. Odium broke out but did only local damage and overall the health of the vines remained satisfactory. The summer was on the whole hot and dry. Some limited hail damage occurred. Whilst scorching temperatures in August led to rapid colouring-up (vérasion) and a promising start to maturation. Rain in September was fortunately concentrated at the beginning and end of the month. By and large, harvesting took place in excellent conditions under sunny skies.
As always, the quest for optimum maturity was the key factor in deciding when harvesting should begin. The composition of the grapes was good nut the presence of botrytis gave rise in many cases to a need for sorting ? more or less rigorously according to situation. On the whole, average sugar content and acidity levels were both satisfactory. The ?ban de vendanges? was lifted the 10th of September confirming a somewhat precocious year.
At Domaine Latour, we began the harvest on Monday 21st and Tuesday 22nd and selected only those vineyards with more than 12° of natural sugar content. The grapes maturity appeared to depend on the age of the vines, the older vines with stronger roots were the most resistant to the drought and therefore in the best condition.
During the period of good weather, the grape juice was re-concentrated. Over 80 percent of our crop was brought in between Monday 21st and Saturday 26th in perfect harvesting conditions. Such was the urgency to harvest before the rains returned, that all available personnel at Maison Latour were mobilised in addition to the harvesters, for the first time in twenty years.
We were able to finish harvesting on Thursday 1st and Friday 2nd October, just before the weather pattern changed again. The careful selection of fruit in the vineyards and on selection tables at our winery ensured that only the very best fruit in the best possible condition went into the vat.
The red grapes that were harvested before the rains came, have good concentration and especially good colour. They have a firm tannic structure that will enable the wines to age gracefully, and the acidity is balanced, but not as high as in 1996. All of the fermentation?s this year were rapid which has helped to soften the wines, and retain that brilliant Pinot Noir colour.
The white 1998s from Domaine Latour are great. Our Corton Charlemagne was picked before the rains came, under fantastic conditions, with sugar levels of between 12.5° and 12.8°. It will surely be a great wine that will benefit from some cellaring. A small crop was harvested from Chevaliers Montrachet Les Demoiselles due to damage caused by the late April frosts, these grapes were of great quality and in a perfect state of physiological maturity.
To sum up the 1998 vintage; the white wines are expressive and pleasing, notable for their elegance and agreeable acidity. For the reds the colour is good and they have a balanced structure and well developed fruit underpinned by harmonious tannins, which bode well for their future.
