2017

Bordeaux 2017 - A year of contrast

Life is not fair and neither is nature. As the earth warms, flowering becomes earlier and the risk of frost damage increases. Few winemakers remember the frosts of 1991, but their legacy is still haunting. When meteorologists predicted a cold blast on the nights of April 27 and 28, there was a real sense of panic. Most with the means deployed, candles, wind turbines, helicopters, lit hay, took all the measures they could - the others left it to chance.

The best protection was provided by nature; proximity to the Gironde and the altitude. These are not at all the best terroirs. Large Médoc estates such as Léoville Las Cases, Pichon Comtesse and Montrose reported virtually no frost damage. Likewise in Pomerol, Château Lafleur, Petrus, Vieux Château Certan and all the other big names on the Pomerol plateau were unscathed. There were some notable casualties such as Cheval Blanc and Figeac, but the damage was far from catastrophic and the resulting wines are both spectacular.

Those located on low altitude vineyards in St Emilion or further away from the Gironde estuary in the Médoc had no natural protection. Here the mercury fell below the critical level and the damage from the frost was devastating. In places, the entire harvest was lost. Winegrowers had to wait patiently and hope for a second generation bud. In most cases, the second generation was futile.

Those partially affected by the frost mainly lost their less favorable terroirs and their plots planted with young vines, normally designated as secondary and generic wines. A natural selection if you will... Statistically, 2017 is not a good reading for Bordeaux as a whole; Appellations that produce wine in bulk have been hit hard. Total production amounted to 3.5 million hectoliters, around 40% less than in 2016. However, yields from higher châteaux are relatively normal and if they are declining, this is usually attributed to small berries caused by drought conditions in July and August.

2017 is best summarized as an early vintage with significant water stress. Bud break, flowering, veraison and harvest were all two weeks ahead of the norm. Fortunately, there was enough rain in June to carry the vines through the drought of July and August. Average temperatures in July and August were not remarkable, although some châteaux pointed out that alternating temperatures from hot to cold days favored ripening. September brought much needed rain and cooler conditions. The nights were particularly cool, which helped prevent botrytis and maintain low pH levels. The latter part of the month saw a return to dry conditions which allowed the Cabernets to reach full maturity.

And what about wines? Statistics can provide rationalizations, but they can't tell you what wines taste like. As Baptiste Guinaudeau says, the 2017s clearly fit into the trilogy of vintages affected by water constraints, 2015, 2016 and 2017. There is a wonderful and refreshing acidity and vitality to the fruit. Very moderate alcohol level, a bit like in 2016. The wines are vibrant and aromatic. Due to the small berries there is good color and the quality of the press wines is very interesting. As 2017 did not have the heat of 2015 and 2016, they are generally not as broad as their predecessors, however, the key was to extract gently then use the high quality press wines to fill out the middle of mouth. There are dozens of successes. The winegrowers who were friendly and let their terroirs speak have triumphed. Olivier Berrouet's Petrus is absolutely exceptional, Château Lafleur and Percesses de Lafleur speak of purity and breed, Canon, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Figeac and Tertre Roteboeuf have all produced worthy successors to their 2015 and 2016. On the left bank , Château Margaux may be in a class of its own, but Mouton Rothschild, Haut Brion, La Mission Haut Brion, Montrose, Pichon Comtesse and Léoville Las Cases all came from the top drawer, and there are many more worthy ones of mention: Grand Puy Lacoste, Smith Haut Lafitte, Haut Bailly, Léoville Barton, Lynch Bages, Ducru Beaucaillou, Calon Segur, Palmer, Pichon Longueville, Brane Cantenac and Rauzan Segla.

BURGUNDY 2017 - In 2017, everything came good for the Bourgogne winegrowing region in terms of both quality and quantity. And after several years of harvests that suffered the whims of the weather, 2017 has provided volumes set to satisfy the market, with wines that are already promising great things to come from this elegant vintage. 

After spending the winter building up their strength, the vines profited fully from a very warm spring, with budburst in early April ensuring a head start in terms of the growth cycle that was maintained right up to the harvest. The plants progressed from stage to stage free from hindrance, and by mid - June, were flowerin g before rapid fruit set. An early vintage was confirmed.

During the summer, a few spells of heatwave alternated with more mixed weather. However, ripening continued at a good pace and by the end of August, the first grapes were being picked, two weeks a head of average . Harvesting continued until mid - September as each plot reached peak maturity . The grapes were in exceptional health and required virtually no sorting. Everyone was very enthu siastic about this fabulous fruit, its peak ripeness, and the volumes produced. The only downside were a few areas hit by spring frosts , where yields were below norms .

Vinification went without a hitch and the mood was one of serenity for this vintage wh en the Bourgogne winegrowing region returned to more habitual levels of quality and quantity.   

WHITE WINES

From the north to the south of the Bourgogne winegrowing region, opinion is unanimous: The 2017 vintage is one of the most elegant expressions of the Chardonnay grape, with perfectly balanced wines and a wonderful aromatic profile. They are crisp , with notes of citrus and white - fleshed fruit. Aeration triggers the release of h ints of peach and apricot, while in the mouth, minerality and tension balance out this rich, fruit - filled palette. A very fine vintage indeed!   

RED WINES

Intense, dazzling colors ranging from ruby to garnet. From first glance, these wines simply invite one to taste them. Notes of red and black berries in these extremely expressive wines are another sign of indulgence, while perfect balance in the mouth comb ined with silky tannins results in a very harmonious ensemble that is subtle and without opulence.     

A very weak year for most Pinot Noir. First, severe April frosts caused significant crop loss. After a hot summer, unexpected rain in July and August caused rot in the vineyards. Overall, a fifth of the crop suffered from rot, with Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir hit the worst. A normal-sized harvest (10,057 kg/ha) was picked from August 26th onwards. Despite attempts at intense selection in the vineyards, the quality was simply not there in the red grapes.

Although 2017 wont be widely declared, some individual successes may be found. For example, several iconic prestige cuvée Blanc de Blancs were made, including Taittinger Comtes de Champagne and Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. 

Fortunately, the following 2018 vintage was a success in both quantity and quality, enabling winemakers to discard unwanted reserve wines from 2017.

Excellent quality for California’s 2017 wines

 California’s 2017 wine harvest wrapped up early this fall following summer heat spurts and a growing season that saw significant rain throughout the state ending a five-year drought. While October wildfires in North Coast wine communities made international headlines, the state’s vineyards and wineries were not significantly affected. Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino counties, the regions most impacted, grow 12 percent of California’s winegrapes, and 90% percent of the harvest in Napa and Sonoma and 85% in Mendocino were already picked and in production at wineries before the fires.

“The vast majority of California’s 2017 winegrape harvest was unaffected by the wildfires and the vintage promises to be of excellent quality,” said Robert P. (Bobby) Koch, president and CEO of Wine Institute. “The outpouring of support locally and from around the world for people in the impacted communities has been phenomenal. We are saddened by the loss of lives and homes and this will truly be remembered as a harvest of the heart. Wineries are at work making their 2017 wines and welcoming visitors dur-ing this beautiful late fall/early winter season.”

The Growing Season 

With all but late harvest grapes in, vintners are looking back at the 2017 growing season throughout the state. The drought is over with the season beginning with rainfall that refilled reservoirs and replenished soils. Harvest began early at a normal pace in many regions, and then progressed rapidly during a heat wave in late August and early September. Temperatures cooled mid-September, slowing the harvest pace and allowing red grapes to ripen gradually. Many regions are reporting reduced yields due to the heat spell, but vintners are reporting strong quality for the 2017 vintage. 

The California Department of Food and Agriculture estimated in early August that the state’s overall crop size would reach 4 million tons, down slightly from 4.03 million in 2016 and above the historical average of 3.9 million tons. The heat wave will likely lower this prediction. 

“We had above average rainfall this winter on the Central Coast, but not as much as areas that saw flooding,” said Steve Lohr, CEO, J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines. “It was wonderful because it helped fill up the reservoirs and bring new life to cover crops that had been parched after several years of drought. It has been a good year for us, all in all, on the Central Coast,” Lohr said. “From the 30,000-foot perspective, I would say that these wines are going to show particularly nicely in their youth but will have the capacity to age.” 

According to Neil Bernardi, vice president of winemaking at Duckhorn Wine Co., the increased rainfall also brought vine-vigor challenges. “It required special focus on cover crops and tillage and closely managing canopies. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in Napa Valley and Alexander Valley look especially healthy,” he said. “Our Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Merlot have excellent color, extraction and flavor, and Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are showing excellent aromatics and great acidity.” 

The rainfall helped vines in the Santa Cruz Mountains rebound from the drought, but also caused some problems during flowering. “Zinfandel got caught by spring rain during bloom and most of our Zinfandel sites are down in tonnage anywhere from 15% to 40%,” said Eric Baugher, chief operating officer and winemaker, Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Winery. “It does appear that the Zinfandel vintage will be an extraordinary one, similar to 1999. I expect similar excellent quality out of Chardonnay since the fruit had such great intensity of flavor from the petite-size clusters and berries.” 

A heat spell impacted many California regions in late summer, speeding up harvest schedules and requiring extra vigilance. “Some vineyards that had exposed fruit showed desiccation,” said David Hayman, vice president of winegrowing for Delicato Family Vineyards, which farms grapes across the state. “Ripeness was accelerated and a lot of fruit became ready all at once. Flavors across the board look good.”

NAPA VALLEY 

Abundant winter rains thrilled vintners and helped recharge reservoirs and groundwater. Spring weather was cool to mild, with increased vine vigor and extended flowering in some areas, but few reports of shatter. A freak June hail storm caused isolated damage, but left the crop mostly unscathed. Initially, harvest seemed like it would proceed at a leisurely rate, but that changed with the Labor Day weekend heat wave. High temperatures kicked harvest into high gear until mid-September, when cooler weather arrived to give red Bordeaux varieties some extra hang time. Vintners are optimistic about quality. Reduced yields are expected for some varieties due to discarding fruit damaged by heat and the wildfires. The whites have bright, fresh flavors and the reds are intense and rich. Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel are showing especially good quality.

SONOMA COUNTY

Record-breaking winter rainfall kicked off the season, filling the water table to capacity and replenishing soils. A mild spring brought bud break at the normal time, and vintners reported small berries with excellent color. A hot summer culminated in a Labor Day weekend heat wave that caused some vintners to move up their harvest dates by a week or so. The grapes endured the heat and once cooler weather arrived, fruit was able to mature at a gradual pace. Mid-September rain forced growers open up canopies, and in some instances, use blowers to dry out certain varieties prior to harvesting. Early estimates predicted an average yield, but some vintners reported weight loss in the grapes after the heat wave. Because most of the fruit was picked prior to the October fires, vintners have a positive outlook on the 2017 wines, comparing the vintage to 2003, 2013 and 2014. The fruit has excellent color, pronounced flavors and high quality across varieties.

SANTA BARBARA 

The growing season got off to a good start, with generous winter rainfall and warm spring temperatures that prevented spring frost issues. The winter rains contributed to strong canopy growth and reduced the need for irrigation. High temperatures and humidity in late August and early September contributed to increased fungal pressure, but vintners reported no significant fruit damage. Harvest began in the third week of August. Fruit quality was above average, characterized by small berries with good color and concentration in the reds. Clusters were also smaller than normal, resulting in yield reductions for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Yields were average to nearly 50% of normal.

SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS 

The region experienced a remarkably wet winter with as much as 100 inches or more of rainfall on the ocean side. This brought healthy vigor to the vines, along with the need for additional canopy management, floor management and weed control. Bud break began in early to mid-March and bloom followed in late May to early June. Harvest came at the end of August, spurred by a heat wave that sent temperatures into triple digits for several days and quickly spurred harvest into overdrive. Some vineyards were affected more than others, depending on microclimates and farming practices. Crop loads were very good and quality looks fantastic for the varieties that were able to ride through the heat spell—especially Cabernet Sauvignon.

AUSTRALIA VINTAGE REPORT: The 2017 winegrape crush is estimated to be 1.93 million tonnes, based on responses received by the Wine Sector Survey 2017. This crush is 5 per cent higher than the 2016 final crush figure of 1.84 million tonnes (Department of Agriculture and Water Resources – Levies recorded figure). It is the third consecutive vintage where the tonnes crushed have increased.

Additional tonnes this year came relatively equally from the cool and temperate regions of Australia and the warm inland regions (Riverina, Murray Darling-Swan Hill and Riverland). However, the tonnes from the cool and temperate regions increased by 9 per cent compared to a 3 per cent increase in the warm inland regions.

Most regions recorded an increase in tonnes crushed including: Riverland, Riverina, Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, Clare Valley, Wrattonbully, Margaret River, King Valley, Eden Valley, Heathcote, Tasmania, Orange, Gundagai, Grampians, Hunter Valley, Hilltops, Alpine Valleys and Rutherglen.

Regions where the tonnes crushed declined in 2017 included Murray Darling-Swan Hill, Langhorne Creek, Padthaway, Adelaide Hills, Currency Creek, Goulburn Valley, Cowra, Swan District, Mount Benson, Robe and Mudgee.

The 2017 red variety crush is estimated to be 1,062,660 tonnes – an increase of 112,000 tonnes (up 12 per cent) compared with 2016. The white variety crush is estimated to be 866,970 tonnes, a decrease of 19,000 tonnes (down 2 per cent) compared with 2016. Red varieties increased their share of the crush to 55 per cent, compared with 52 per cent in 2016.

The top three red varieties by volume were Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, together accounting for 85 per cent of the total red crush. Shiraz accounted for 47 per cent of the red crush (up slightly from 2016) while the Cabernet Sauvignon share fell from 27 per cent to 26 per cent and Merlot remained at 12 per cent.

Among the whites, Chardonnay remains the dominant variety. However, its share fell from 47 per cent in 2016 to 42 per cent this year with the Chardonnay crush down 13 per cent.

2017 will also be a good year for Grenache. It’s a grape whose time has come, and has indeed been coming for a few years. It’s a warm-climate grape that does particularly well in regions such as McLaren Vale. Now that consumers have got over their strange obsession with dark colour and lots of structure in their red wines, Grenache is allowed to do what it does best: make elegant, perfumed, somewhat lighter-coloured reds that are the equivalent of the Pinot Noir of the warmer climates.

Pinot Noir is also going from strength to strength, and superb examples are coming from Tasmania, Mornington Peninsular, Macedon Ranges and cooler parts of the Yarra Valley. 2017 will be a good year for Pinot, and also for Australian wines’ cool climate regions generally.

Chardonnay is one grape where there has been a shift in style, and 2017 could see it become even more interesting. ‘As you’re well aware there’s been a trend for quite a few years for "size zero” Chardonnay, early picked, skinny and with a very strong sulphidy character,’ says Wildman. ‘The better examples of these wines have dominated at the wine shows and therefore have further driven the style (think Vasse Felix Heytesbury, Penfolds Bin A, Oakridge 864). ’However, this style of Chardonnay has come under criticism because it’s almost as if the foot has been made to fit the slipper, and they aren’t actually all that nice to drink. As a consequence, Wildman notes, there are now fewer wines in this skinny-sulphidy style being seen. ‘The pendulum seems to have swung back (rapidly) towards the middle ground, where the wines have some weight, texture and ripeness, are not afraid of some new oak, and the sulphides have been dialed back to just a whisper of struck match, making the wines not too skinny, not too fat, but "just right”.’ He reckons that as the 2016 wines hit the shelves next year this trend for more balanced wines will increase.

The 2017 vintage produced exceptional ports in the Douro. It was a dry year with compact bunches of excellent quality berries and extremely low yields. The advanced growing season resulted in our earliest ever recorded harvest start date. Nothing less than a spectacular year for Vintage Port!

SPAIN 2017 Vintage  /Extreme weather was seen across the wine world in 2017 and Spain was no exception. For most Spanish regions there were one or more climatic challenges to contend with including spring frost, drought, untypically high summer temperatures and occasional hail storms. Then, mercifully, the going got easier as more typical weather arrived for the August and September ripening period and generally very favourable harvest conditions. 

Frost hit areas where it rarely does in Spain – many areas of Galicia were affected with only Rías Baixas getting off lightly. Castilla y León, with its wide stretch of regions from Ribera del Duero to Bierzo, often sees some frost but this year it hit with a vengeance. Jerez was one of the few areas to escape and the central area of Castilla-La Mancha only suffered frost damage in isolated areas. 

The long drought and a very hot early summer period tested some varieties, especially non- indigenous ones. Older vines and bush vines with deep roots coped better with the extreme weather and soils with good water retention were a bonus. 

The harvest was generally low-yielding and early, having been brought forward by an early bud break. But the length of the harvest varied and thanks to fine weather growers could wait for the best time to pick waiting for each area to reach maturity. In some cases where there was a secondary growth on vines after the frost, the result was a later growing cycle and vines reaching maturity at more typical dates. 

Grape quality was often reported to be high with healthy bunches of smaller berries showing intense flavours and excellent ripeness. As always, those offering the best wines from this vintage are likely to have selected their grapes carefully. 

While yields are down in 2017, this harvest comes after more generous ones for many Spanish regions in recent years and this should safeguard against supply shortages. 

Germany/ Quality rather than quantity: 2017 has great potential!

The fascinating 2017 vintage is also one of a kind. The smallest volume here in our wi- nery since the excellent 1971. In many parcels, the Riesling yield barely exceeded 20 hl/ha. For the Pinot Noir, in some instances it was even less.
We are obviously sad because we already know that we don’t have enough wine in our cellar to satisty our customers. But from a quality perspective, the 2017 vintage makes us happy and proud. 

2017 has many of the hallmarks of the first-class 2001 and 2004 vintages: the ripeness and out and out nobility of 2001, together with the elegance and extract of 2004. Dear wine friends, if you happen to have bottles from these vintages in your cellar, they have developed into lucky charms and provide a foretaste of what we can expect from the 2017s ten years from now. A year with great potential. 

The greatest challenges: erratic weather and hailstorms 

After a frosty spring, the 2017 growing season picked up the pace and the young green shoots appeared three weeks too early. We only just escaped greater frost damage in April, with temperatures of -3.5 oC (26 oF). Others regions were more unlucky and many vinegrowers and fruit farmers lost 50–100% of their crop at this early stage. Our vines had to digest the shock of this early frost – as did we. 

The vegetation seemed to fall into a winter sleep for several weeks until mid May when summer-like temperatures clearly accelerated the growth of the canopy. June was much too dry and our vines must have felt like nomads in the desert again. Rainfall in the first six months of the year didn’t even reach half the long-term average. 

Fortunately the longed-for rain came at the end of July and a cool, damp August allo- wed the vines and us to breathe a sigh of relief. Growth and ripening proceded slowly. The water reserves that are so important for the vine had been replenished and every- thing pointed to a quiet and relaxed final ripening phase. The small bunches hung picture-perfect on the vine. 

Towards evening on 25 August a heavy hailstorm in Gundersheim und Westhofen dashed in a trice all hopes of a generous harvest. 

I was standing at that moment with my son Felix under the roof overhang. Felix looked as white as a sheet. The hailstones hammered on the roof and we had to look on helpless as our year’s work was brought to nothing in just a few minutes. At least that’s how it seemed at the time. When the sun reappeared there was no time to mope. We had to go on. So we jumped into the VW minibus and checked, vineyard by vineyard, the damage the storm had done. 

Fortunately the losses in Dalsheim were less than we feared. In Westhofen, however, Morstein, ABTS E and parts of Kirchenspiel had been badly hit. Had it rained after the hail, we would have lost the majority of our crop. We were very lucky that it re- mained dry. The god of the weather seemed to want to make good and sent us a wonderful Indian summer. The pleasantly warm, dry days and cool nights dried out the berries that had been hit and allowed the aromas in the healthy berries to explode. 

The small crop still on the vine developed slowly and benefited from night-time tempe- ratures of around 0 oC/32 oF. The fruit in the berries grew finer, the acidiy transpired very slowly. Sorting the berries in the ensuing harvest took a huge amount of effort. In some instances we had to inspect every single berry individually on the vine. Only the best made it into the little baskets in which we carried home the harvest in the evenings. And when, at the end of a long day’s picking with 25 helpers, only 800-1,000 litres flowed from the press instead of 4,000-5,000 litres, it was hard to see the positive side. My father Klaus, on the other hand, stood by the press beaming and said, ‘A lot and good seldom go hand in hand. The bunches look fantastic!’ And of course he was right. After 52 harvests he’s pretty much unflappable. 

It took a lot of patience and willingness to take risks to produce excellent quality in 2017. Those who hurried to rescue what could be rescued generally ended up with green, unripe characteristics and a lack of balance in the cask. 

To be perfectly honest, even I am a little surprised by how good the vintage is. And that’s exactly what we winegrowers love: after 30 or 50 harvests we continue to learn so much and are surprised time and time again. Particularly influential for quality in this vintage were the low yields. But still, many more dominoes had to fall into place for us to turn a good vintage into a very good or even a great one.

The small New Zealand vintage is full of promise / The 2017 harvest was lower than expected according to New Zealand winegrowers.

The 2017 vintage survey shows the harvest totaled 396,000 tonnes, down 9% from last year, New Zealand Winegrowers CEO Philip Gregan said. “Given the strong demand in foreign markets, wineries were expecting a larger harvest this year. With the smaller vintage, however, export volume growth is expected to be more moderate over the coming year.

Mr Gregan said the smaller vintage was due to weather conditions. “In general, summer weather conditions have been very positive, but there have been some challenges as the season has progressed. »

In terms of vintage quality, Mr Gregan said wineries were confident the vintage would deliver the fruit flavors New Zealand wine is renowned for. “Reports from all wine regions indicate that wineries are generally positive about the quality of the vintage. However, as always, the ultimate test will be how the market responds to the wines when they are released. At this stage, we are confident that the 2017 vintage wines will enhance New Zealand's reputation as a premium producer of cool climate wines. »

New Zealand wine is exported to more than 90 countries and wine exports are currently valued at $1.65 billion per year. Wine is New Zealand's 5th largest export product.

AUSTRIA 2017 - A qualitatively good vintage, according to the Austrian Wine Association

“Austrian wine growers are currently anticipating a quantitatively good vintage with very ripe and healthy grapes,” said Johannes Schmuckenschlager, president of the Wine Association.

With favorable spring weather, 2017 brings a lot of hope despite severe frosts. A few heavy rains helped combat a hot, dry summer, resulting in a “very fine and fully ripe” vintage, Schmuckenschlager added.

Austria is looking forward to a good average vintage:

Steiermark (Styria), which was not greatly affected by the drought, is expecting a very satisfactory vintage both in terms of quality and quantity.
Burgenland reports a normal-sized harvest with good quality, especially in red wines.
Niederösterreich (Lower Austria) and Vienna (Vienna) expect a normal good harvest in terms of quality.
In general, Austria estimates an average vintage volume of 2.3 million hectoliters.

REPORT OF THE 2017 BORDEAUX RED VINTAGE

2017 was a very unique and very different vintage for red Burgundy and was unlike any other I have seen in all my years of tasting. It shares some similarities with previous vintages but not with more recent ones. This especially reminds me of 1985, which was all about early drinking wines with lush, super advanced fruit and very little tannin. While 2017 may not be a long-lived vintage, the fact is that the wines have more fruit than tannins, will not dry out as they age, and will be easy to drink young. Many great years (2015, 2010, 2009 and 2005 for example) have a lot of tannin, and at some point, when the fruit dries out, the tannin will dominate what's left of the wine and many people will be disappointed.

I think the 2017 red wines from the Côte de Beaune will not be as good as those from the Côte de Nuits. The weather
The additional time spent on the vines on the Côte de Nuits made it possible to obtain more concentrated and less diluted wines. The best 2017 red wines are very concentrated and ripe, and it is rare to taste such a concentrated wine with few tannins. However, the nice thing is that even with this level of concentration you still find a nice freshness on the finish due to decent levels of tartaric acid. Where the 2017 white wines were harvested mainly in August, the 2017 red wines were harvested in early September. There was a

quite a bit of rain on August 30 which delayed the Pinot Noir harvest. For some producers with many appellations in many terroirs, this means they may have started harvest on September 3 and not finished it until mid-September. The vines were very stressed due to a general lack of rain in 2017, and the big storm on August 30 (which produced almost an inch of rain) caused the grapes to swell and consequently led to dilution. The fact that Côtes de Nuits had more time to recover from rainfall led to more ripe and concentrated wines than those produced in Côtes de Beaune. Also, the frosts of 2016 caused an overproduction of the vines in 2017 which required intense work at the sorting tables. The quality of 2017 red wines depends a lot on the harvest date and the work in the cellar, but ultimately it is one of the easiest vintages to taste young and will be very commercially pleasing.

As for the growing season, January was very cold (20% cooler than normal) with no snow and almost no rain. Not
Only one day that month had more than a trace of rain, and 18 of those days were completely dry. The rain deficit ended up being about 2.75 inches below normal. February warmed up with only one day dropping below freezing. Mid-month temperatures were in the 50s. It was still dry, however, with only the 11th and 28th receiving minimal precipitation. March was a normal month with much needed rain and normal early spring temperatures. Most of the rain fell early in the month and the growing cycle began quickly. Some buds even appeared as early as March 20. April was quite warm and sunny, and the vines began to bud in the middle of the month. April had some days reaching the low 70s and sometimes the temperature reached as high as 75°F (April 9) and 79°F (April 10). There has been almost no rain all month until the last few days. Growers were anxious at this point, fearing a repeat of the frosts of late April 2016. Despite the cold temperatures of April 27-29 (some growers were so nervous that they burned hay prematurely and started fires to warm the vines) , fortunately the frost remained far away in Burgundy. Ultimately, this cold snap was fortuitous because it slowed ripening and prevented the buds from bursting. In May, there was little rain early in the month, then it became dry, with temperatures at the end of the month in the 70s. On May 29, the high reached 86°F. These warm temperatures were perfect for the end of flowering at the end of May, which took place two weeks earlier than usual. June was quite warm, especially in the middle of the month when temperatures reached the 90s on the 11th and 15th, culminating with a major rainstorm on the 15th. Fortunately, the inch of rain was not accompanied by hail. It was quite warm at the end of June, and the vines flowered and matured very quickly despite some water constraints. There was no evidence of rot, powdery mildew or mold at this stage.

I tasted a few of the wines that had completed malolactic fermentation. 2018 was probably the quickest ever vintage to finish malolactic fermentation for several producers. Some resorted to chilling down their cellars just to prolong it. For the white wines, at one grower I did a comparative tasting of two appellations spanning the last five vintages. It was incredible how great the 2015 and 2017 vintages showed, with 2014 and 2018 just behind. 2016 was also excellent but just not at the same level. I simply can’t wait to get a preview of the 2018 red wines when I am back in Burgundy to buy the whites next June.

Danny Haas

2017 Argentina Harvest: A small but promising vintage

After a very wet El Niño vintage last year, it was a relief for Argentinian winemakers to return to its more characteristic dry climate.

Although the quality is considered high across the board, damaging spring frosts have significantly reduced the quantity.

2017 is a fantastic harvest in terms of quality, said Santiago Achaval, winemaker at Matervini.

“After 2014 and 2015 were difficult with rains close to harvest, and 2016 in spring and early summer, we had a return to almost normal weather in Mendoza. The only problem was a series of near-freeze episodes in the spring. This resulted in poor fruit set for Malbec, with yields falling by 40% to 60%.

A slightly earlier than normal harvest was a blessing in disguise for Mendoza, as mid-April saw a heavy rain shower and several hailstorms.

Hail in Mendoza.

“The rapid pace of ripening was also spurred by the generally low yields observed throughout the province of Mendoza,” said Dona Paula winemaker Marcos Fernandez.

“Production was 40% to 70% lower than a normal year, particularly for Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Pinot Noir. »

“2017 will be remembered for its excellent quality and low volume. The low yields and excellent maturity have led to an impressive concentration of tannins and a very intense color.

“The tannin structure provides mouth-filling wines, and we can expect tremendous aging potential. »

In Salta and northern Argentina, yields increased compared to last year, with no reported complications.

However, further south, in the Rio Negro and Neuquen, late spring frosts also reduced yields by up to 40%, followed by a hot summer, flash floods and hail.

“The biggest challenge was a risky growing season, with threatening weather...frost, rain and heatwave!? said Hans Vinding-Diers, winemaker at Bodega Noemia in Rio Negro.

“But the quality of the grapes remained perfect: great acidity, fantastic fruit and, curiously, little alcohol. Veraison took at least a month and a half to complete, this could have stopped the sugars from rising too high.

The 2017 vintage from Argentina was undeniably smaller, but should stand out for its concentration and quality.

LOIRE 2017 VINTAGE

The Loire Valley vines enjoyed excellent health throughout the season, reaching their milestones a good two weeks earlier than usual; And now we can report that the harvest took place in ideal conditions and that the grapes show good levels of maturity. The April frosts had an impact on yields in some regions and the dry weather last autumn also limited harvests, but in total, some 2.3 million hl of AOP and IGP grapes from Val de Loire have reached the cellars. This is an increase of 6% compared to 2016, but still lower than what we expected on average annually. The volumes are variable, compensated, fortunately, by excellent quality on the three colors. The 2017 vintage looks extremely promising.

GRAPES & STYLES:

Burgundy melon – “High quality despite uneven volumes”

In the Muscadet appellations, the Ban des Vendanges was declared on August 28. The frosts at the end of April caused great disparities in yield; some producers achieved their objectives, while others lost up to 80% of their fruit, particularly in the heart of Sèvre-et-Maine. The harvest is estimated between 280,000 and 300,000 hl across all Muscadet appellations, compared to 244,000 hl last year, a deficit of 35 to 40% compared to a normal year. The quality of this early vintage, however, is impeccable, largely thanks to the August sun. We can expect very pleasant wines with good concentration, liveliness, freshness and excellent persistence.

Dry & Sweet Chenin Blancs – “Excellent taste potential”

The 2007 Chenins, sweet and dry, have very good taste potential. In certain regions, notably in the Savavannières, the frosts have wreaked havoc, but in other regions – Vouvray and Anjou-Saumur, for example, the harvests are good. The harvest weather has certainly been favorable, giving producers plenty of time to sort their grapes, and although volumes are limited, the quality of fruit entering the winery is very high indeed.

Cabernet Francs – “Significant fluctuations”

The majority of Cabernet Francs were picked between September 20 and October 5. The results varied depending on the effects of the frost, this year and last year. Harvest levels reached 100% of the standard in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, but fell to 80% in Chinon. In Saumur-Champigny, where the impact of the frost was most severe, volumes appear to be around 70% of average, but show roundness and full body - a beautiful vintage. Overall, Cabernet Francs are light and supple with low acidity; Others are richer and denser, with a very pleasant vein of tannin and a good balance between sugar and acidity – similar to 2011.

Sauvignon Blancs – “Pleasant flavors”

In Loir-et-Cher, fluctuating temperatures and lack of water resulted in yields varying from 3 hl/ha in areas damaged by frost to 35-40 hl/ha in unaffected areas – still lower than the expected results. There was an overall yield drop of 30% across all zones and grape varieties, again with significant variation. When it comes to quality, however, there are no complaints about Loire sauvignons. They are fruity, display all the traditional characteristics of Sauvignon and, despite their advanced state of maturity at this year's harvest, they have good acidity and a pleasant balance on the palate.

Gamays – “Smooth and densely colored”

The Gamays were harvested at an excellent stage of maturity, both technological and phenolic. Health was good. It is generally accepted that this year's Gamay wines will be rich, smooth and intensely colored, with dark fruit flavors rather than the traditional pear drops. These may not be typical Gamays from the Loire Valley, but the quality is very good and the volumes are higher than expected.

Rosés – “Exceptional flavor”

The excellent health of the grapes and good maturity allowed the vinification to proceed without a hitch and to obtain very attractive rosés. After alcoholic fermentation, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc wines are rich, dense and fruity. However, while we cannot deny the quality of the 2017 rosés, yields were not always as high as we had hoped due to the weather conditions mentioned above. Cabernet franc was the hardest hit.

Spain’s 2017 harvest down 20%

Spain’s 2017 grape harvest is expected to be down by nearly 20% on 2016, according to provisional estimates by the Ministry of Agriculture, surpassing previous estimates of a 15% decline in the wake of spring frosts, heatwaves and drought.

Provisionally, total production of wine and must in the current 2017/18 vintage stands at 35.6 million hectoliters, compared with 44 million hectoliters in 2016 – a 19.6% drop – according to a statement released this week by Spain’s Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries, Food and Environment.

Based on figures from the Market Information System of the Wine Sector (INFOVI), of the 35.6 million hectoliters produced 13.6 million hectoliters has been declared as wine with Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), 3.6 million hectoliters as wine with Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), and 6.2 million hectoliters as varietal wines. The remaining wines represent 29% of total production.

Overall, production in 2017 is 19.6% lower than the previous season and 17.6% lower than the average of the previous six seasons.