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Severe winter temperatures and spring frosts did great damage, leaving many in the region unhopeful of a good year. The destruction was excessive especially in the northern Montagne de Reims, in the hillside vineyards west of Reims and in the Aube. The early summer weather did not raise the hopes, but finally fine September weather came to the rescue and yields ended up being better than feared (albeit tiny, 6,827 kg/ha) when picking commenced...
It is a never-ending piece of theatre to witness the transformation that certain champagnes go through when they are allowed to remain as a chrysalis for a few extra years in the cellars of the producers, before arriving on the dining-table of the consumer. This 85 is a highly normal if very good champagne in its usual garb. Now, as a late release and like a great sportsman who has been pumped up at a training camp, it is so beautiful that it takes one's breath away. The aroma is a blend of the toasted, smoky 76 and the elegant 79. In the middle of the toastiness there is a Charles Heidsieck-like orange complexity to luxuriate in. The aftertaste is not especially long and the concentration could have been greater, but one's enjoyment is nearly maximal on condition that one may take great gulps! More serious and more meanly ascetic in a slowly developing Jeroboam. Last time a lot of similarities with the mushrom notes of Bollinger RD.
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