Vieilles Vignes Françaises 2010

Only 1416 bottles make this the smallest edition ever of VVF. Compared to the 2007 which was the latest release, this is a much more finely tuned and less mature edition of this gem. If you do not let the wine be aired for a while after opening, you may well be mistaken that this could be a young Bollinger RD. The house style is thus more significant than the vineyard typical this time. The color is slightly lighter and less reddish than last time and the mousse is refined minimally in size and texture. The scent is magnificent and at the same time astonishingly elegant, but extremely restrained and a bit knotted initially. With time in the glass, an abyss opens up and the notes of hazelnut, tar and beetroot for the company of white truffle, clover honey, licorice and unlit Havana cigarr. The taste contains exactly the same notes with an added fatty fruit that attracts rosehips and apricot jam. Heavenly long taste that brings my thoughts to one of the greatest moments of my life. Me and photographer Pål Allan's meeting with 2005 VVF in Patagonia. One day I have to go there again. This time with the relatively fine-limbed 2010.

A deep golden colour, the wine opens with roasted almonds and is accompanied with honey notes. Plum and peach with tarte tatin caramelised apple notes on the midpalate. Smooth and depthful flavours right through to the finish, which is long producing candied fruit notes.