Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 (A$120) – Every year I look forward to this wine as I am convinced that this might be the year I finally understand what they are trying to do with 407, what they want it to show and why they make it (other than for the obvious reason that it makes a truckload of money). This year, with no 707 in their plans, I thought that redirecting that fruit into 407 might convince me. Every year, I live in hope. Sadly, this was not to be the year.
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a number of districts – McLaren Vale, Barossa, Coonawarra, Padthaway and Wrattonbully – the wine spends 15 months in a mix of oak – French and American (24% and 12% new respectively). I would also question where it fits in the overall scheme of value from the Collection (not high, would be my answer).
It is important to stress that this is not a bad wine by any means at all. It is a fine, attractive, full of flavour red, but it never seems to flick the switch, for me at least. I know others have no such issues. Black with a purple rim. Dark berry notes, spices, coffee grinds, florals and some warm earth. Dry herbs. There are fine tannins here, a mid-length style and one which should age neatly for a decade. I'm just not all that sure what it is supposed to be, other than perhaps a pleasant drink. What is definitely beyond my comprehension is that, other than Grange itself, this is the only wine in the Collection to see a price increase. On what planet is this wine worth more than Bin 389? That alone is irrefutable evidence of a world in chaos. 90.
