‘V’ Chardonnay NV ($TBC) – Following in the footsteps of the G Series (G3, G4 and G5), we have V, a blend of five different vintages of Yattarna (the V comes from the Roman numeral for five) – 2011, 2012, 2014, 2016 and the yet to be released 2021, an even split of 20% each of the five years, which has worked wonderfully well. While the G Series wines competed for supremacy with the Grange of each respective Collection, for me, V steps ahead Yattarna. Given how good the Yattarna is, that is really saying something. This is really special. Only 2,200 bottles were made. Some have suggested that this will be a one-off, which would be a shame. I asked Gago and he was his usual non-committed self but he did at least concede, “never say never!” The wine has not been bottled for long, making it even more remarkable. Gago has said that it just seems to get better and better every week and that they are delighted with it.
The colour is a pale, clean straw, with concentrated aromas of lemons, spices, stonefruits, a touch of lanolin, grapefruit, but nary a hint of oak, so well has it integrated throughout the different years. Bright acidity and finely balanced, there is still a plushness and a creamy texture to the wine. Wonderfully fresh, this is stunning. Such incredible length. Love it. It will sit comfortably with some of the better Grand Crus from Burgundy. The plan, time of writing, is for it to be released late 2022 or early next year. 98.