Some of the Best Australian New Releases: Cullens – Dancing in the Sun 2024  – As with all Cullens, we see the use of biodynamics in action, although we are told this is the ‘fun and joyful’ side. Who knew biodynamics had a fun and joyful style? This wine is part of quite an extensive array of Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blends offered by Cullens, this one with a dribble of Chenin Blanc and friends as well – 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 28% Semillon, 14% Chenin, 4% Chardonnay and 1% Verdelho. It hails from a trio of their vineyards. 

A pale lemon hue, this has quite an intense nose with herbals to the fore, along with florals, soursop, citrus and touches of lemon curd. Pleasingly powerful aromas. This is balanced and seamless, with the palate beautifully constructed, and a lingering, clean finish. This will excite even more in a year or two and then drink well for the following four years. These Savvy Sem wines from Cullens are anything but your simple, slurpable Savvys blends, and all the better for that. 92. 

Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz 1988-2020 tasting: 2019 vintage: Medium-deep crimson. Intense dark plum, black cherry, blackberry aromas with praline, vanilla, hint black pepper notes. Generously proportioned wine with superb pure blackberry pastille, cassis sage flavours, fine chocolaty firm tannins and beautiful integrated ginger, roasted chestnut oak. Finishes chocolaty and long. Wonderful follow-up vintage. Drink 2030–2048. 14.5% alc

When you are fortunate enough to taste nineteen Rousseau Chambertins at one meal, you can be sure you will have some perspective. The range of vintages was 2018 back to 1990 with almost all the most heralded vintages (no 1991), and the one that stood out above the rest was the 2005 Rousseau Chambertin. Make no mistake about it, there were many standouts, but the 2005 hit the highest note. It was deep but more hi-toned than some of its younger brethren, in a bright red way. It has a raspberry, cranberry and citrus mélange. While rich and saucy, it wasn’t like the other saucy vintages as it had more tension and style. This was a wine to restore one’s faith in the often glacial 2005 vintage. It had enough spice to satisfy the entire House of Atreides (99, Paris).