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1989 / The year that changed the world

If you think you are sometimes spoiled for choice, consider the fate of an editor on the first weekend of June 1989. On the afternoon of Saturday, June 3, the state of Ayatullah Ruhollah Khomeini, Iran's Supreme Leader, began to deteriorate rapidly. Just before midnight, Khomeini, 86, died, his death announced on the radio a few hours later. Tehran is 31 and a half hours behind Beijing, so just as crow...

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Bordeaux

Bordeaux: The 2nd in a trio of great vintages and which produced a large harvest of ripe, rich and fleshy wines which generally possess soft, silky tannins, accompanied by a high alcohol level. It was the hottest summer since 1949 and the harvest began on August 28, the earliest since 1893. The grapes were harvested in dry conditions, the only concern being that some acidity levels were low, which which has led to suggestions that some wines would not be suitable for long-term aging. Ten years later, these fears have proven to be largely unfounded, as the best wines are now showing extremely well, showing concentration and great complexity.

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Burgundy

1989 VINTAGE in Burgundy

Weather conditions were exceptional which led to a notably early harvest with perfectly ripened grapes in both colours. The reds with their velvety tannins have a fine colour, showing softer more elegant tendencies than the 88?s. They make a wonderful choice to drink on a special occasion. The whites in general were very precocious; ripe, powerful, rich, generous and well rounded; most should already have been drunk but the Grand Crus are superb for drinking now and over the next few years.

As regards the style of the 1989's, we now have one or two general impressions. The white wines are of great class. The Chardonnay in Burgundy has produced wines with ripe, powerful aromas and rich, generous body tending, in certain cases, almost to unctuosity. Initial comparisons have been drawn with 1971 and perhaps 1964.

The ripening of the Pinot Noir crop was somewhat hindered in several areas by unexpectedly large quantities of second generation grapes and extremely dry conditions. The resulting natural sugar levels were slightly lower than the recent yardstick year, 1985, but the fruit was in perfect condition. Overall quality will be good to very good.

The red wines have fine, deep colour and quite vinous, concentrated fruity aromas. They are well constituted and round and should be capable of ageing well. Initial comparisons have been drawn with 1966 and 1979.

In the Beaujolais, the Gamay has yielded powerful, fleshy wines lacking perhaps the charm of textbook Beaujolais. The wines are reminiscent of the 1978's.

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Champagne

Champagne: A warm vintage, where simply charming wines were produced. However, there was not enough heat throughout the year. Spring frosts killed some of the shoots, reducing the harvest by 20%. The inflorescences were discontinued due to the exceptionally cold weather. This was followed by the maturation of the grapes in two phases. The first harvest was already made at the beginning of September and the second at the beginning of October. Overall, the result was a great harvest of good wines. The vintage has been compared to what others believe to be the legendary hot vintages of the century – 1947, 1959 and 1976. The wines are marked by rich essence, heavy taste, tropical fruitiness and softer acids. The vintage matures noticeably faster than 1988 and 1990, reaching its peak in the following 3 to 5 years.

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Italia

Italy Vintage Report Tb: 1989 was a difficult and low-yielding year. Piedmont suffered a terrible ordeal in June when a hailstorm cut a swath through Barolo, destroying plantations. Some growers lost up to half of their crops, but Barolo and Barbaresco still managed to produce small, high-quality crops. This vintage is generally considered the best for red wine. In Tuscany, 1989 was one of the most variable on record. Some areas suffered from incessant rain, while others suffered from drought. Montalcino and Montepulciano are doing the best. Indeed, these wines are generally light and mature quickly.

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Period report by Angelo Gaja: I believe that 1989 is a beautiful vintage. The vintage is not popular because 1989 was only good in Piedmont and mainly in the Langhe. It rained a lot in Italy in October and November. In Piedmont we had a cloudy period for almost two weeks. It rained in Cuneo, Switzerland, and partially in Asti. But not in the Langhe. We crossed our fingers. The sun returned after a fortnight and we had sunshine from October to early November. Perfectly ripe. The vintage was obscured in 1990, of course.

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The best wines of the 1989 vintage

Name Tb Producer Location
1 Château Haut-Brion 100 Château Haut-Brion Bordeaux, France
2 La Mission Haut Brion 100 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Bordeaux, France
3 Vieilles Vignes Françaises 100 Bollinger Champagne, France
4 Côte-Rôtie La Turque 100 E.Guigal Rhône, France
5 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 100 Henri Jayer Burgundy, France
6 Pétrus 99 Château Pétrus Pomerol, France
7 Lafleur 99 Château Lafleur Bordeaux, France
8 Krug Clos du Mesnil 99 Krug Champagne, France
9 Château Haut-Brion Blanc 99 Château Haut-Brion Bordeaux, France
10 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé 99 Château Rayas Rhône, France
11 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 99 István Szépsy Tokaj-Hegyalja, Hungary
12 Le Pin 98 Le Pin Bordeaux, France
13 Reserve des Célestin CNP 98 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf du Pape, France
14 Montrose 98 Château Montrose Bordeaux, France
15 Comtes de Champagne 98 Taittinger Champagne, France
16 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 98 Domaine Armand Rousseau Burgundy, France
17 La Turque 98 E.Guigal Rhône, France
18 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 98 Château Rayas Rhône, France
19 Hommage à Jacques Perrin 98 Château de Beaucastel Rhône, France
20 Chevalier-Montrachet 98 Domaine Leflaive Burgundy, France
21 Batard-Montrachet 98 Domaine Ramonet Burgundy, France
22 Barolo Cannubi Boschis 98 Luciano Sandrone Piedmont, Italy
23 Musigny 98 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Burgundy, France
24 Hermitage Blanc 98 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Rhône, France
25 Côte-Rôtie La Mouline 98 E.Guigal Rhône, France
26 Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain 98 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Alsace, France
27 Sir Winston Churchill 98 Pol Roger Champagne, France
28 Clos des Goisses L.V. 98 Philipponnat Champagne, France
29 Château Lascombes 98 Château Lascombes Bordeaux, France
30 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 98 Méo-Camuzet Burgundy, France
31 Barolo Gran Bussia Riserva 98 Poderi Aldo Conterno Piedmont, Italy
32 Cristal Vinothèque 98 Louis Roederer Champagne, France
33 Château Latour 97 Château Latour Bordeaux, France
34 Château Margaux 97 Château Margaux Bordeaux, France
35 Romanée Conti 97 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Burgundy, France
36 Cristal 97 Louis Roederer Champagne, France
37 La Tâche 97 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Burgundy, France
38 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 97 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Bordeaux, France
39 Cheval Blanc 97 Château Cheval Blanc Bordeaux, France
40 Krug Collection 97 Krug Champagne, France
41 d'Yquem 97 Château d'Yquem Bordeaux, France
42 Hermitage 97 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Rhône, France
43 Château Clinet 97 Château Clinet Bordeaux, France
44 Château Clerc Milon 97 Château Clerc Milon Bordeaux, France
45 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 97 E.Guigal Rhône, France
46 Château Gilette 97 Château Gilette Bordeaux, France
47 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 97 Joseph Drouhin Burgundy, France
48 La Grande Année 97 Bollinger Champagne, France
49 Musigny V.V. 97 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Burgundy, France
50 Stonewell Shiraz 97 Peter Lehmann South Australia, Australia
51 Chambertin 97 Joseph Drouhin Burgundy, France
52 Montrachet 97 Domaine Ramonet Burgundy, France
53 Le Mesnil 97 Bruno Paillard Champagne, France
54 Blanc des Millénaires 97 Charles Heidsieck Champagne, France
55 Echezeaux 97 Henri Jayer Burgundy, France
56 Chevalier-Montrachet 97 Bouchard Père & Fils Burgundy, France
57 Barolo 97 Cantina Bartolo Mascarello Piedmont, Italy
58 Pol Roger vintage 97 Pol Roger Champagne, France
59 Barolo Rocche 97 Vietti Piedmont, Italy
60 Chassagne Montrachet Les Chenevottes 97 Domaine Leroy Burgundy, France
61 Chevalier Montrachet 97 Maison Leroy Burgundy, France
62 La Collection Crayères Millésime Brut 97 Charles Heidsieck Champagne, France
63 La Mission Haut Brion Blanc 97 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Bordeaux, France
64 Clos du Mesnil Vinothèque 97 Krug Champagne, France
65 Barolo Bric del Fiasc 97 Paolo Scavino Piedmont, Italy
66 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 97 Méo-Camuzet Burgundy, France
67 Chambolle Musigny Amoureuses 97 Domaine Georges Roumier Burgundy, France
68 Clos de Tart 97 Mommessin Burgundy, France
69 Grands Échézeaux 97 Maison Leroy Burgundy, France
70 Krug Vintage 96 Krug Champagne, France
71 Hermitage La Chapelle 96 Paul Jaboulet & Âiné Rhône, France
72 Dominus 96 Dominus Estate Napa Valley, United States
73 Chateau Lynch-Bages 96 Château Lynch-Bages Pauillac, France
74 Lafite-Rothschild 96 Château Lafite-Rothschild Bordeaux, France
75 Château Palmer 96 Château Palmer Bordeaux, France
76 Cave Privée 96 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne, France
77 Clos des Goisses 96 Philipponnat Champagne, France
78 Cristal Rosé 96 Louis Roederer Champagne, France
79 Richebourg 96 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Burgundy, France
80 Château La Conseillante 96 Château La Conseillante Bordeaux, France
81 Opus One 96 Opus One Napa Valley, United States
82 Cave Privée Rosé 96 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne, France
83 Chateau La Tour Haut Brion 96 Château La Tour Haut-Brion Bordeaux, France
84 Sorí San Lorenzo 96 Gaja Barbaresco, Italy
85 Sori Tildin 96 Gaja Barbaresco, Italy
86 Rosé Millésime 96 Champagne Henriot Champagne, France
87 Château de Fargues 96 Château de Fargues Sauternes, France
88 Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala 96 Poderi Aldo Conterno Piedmont, Italy
89 Romanee Saint Vivant 96 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Burgundy, France
90 Vieux Chateau Certan 96 Vieux Château Certan Bordeaux, France
91 Barbaresco Santo Stefano 96 Bruno Giacosa Barolo, Italy
92 Belle Epoque 96 Perrier-Jouët Champagne, France
93 Clos de la Roche 96 Nicolas Potel Burgundy, France
94 Collection 96 Lanson Champagne, France
95 Trotanoy 96 Château Trotanoy Bordeaux, France
96 DT 96 Jacquesson Champagne, France
97 Vouvray Le Clos du Bourg Moelleux Première Trie 96 Domaine Huet Loire, France
98 Clos de Vougeot 96 Méo-Camuzet Burgundy, France
99 Meursault Les Rougeots 96 Coche Dury Burgundy, France
100 Latriciers-Chambertin 96 Domaine Leroy Burgundy, France
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