2004

Report of the Rhône vintage by Jaboulet: The summer was very dry with temperatures above average, more than 26°C in June and 36°C at the end of July. This more or less stopped the ripening process and delayed the color change of the grapes.
The difference with 2003 is that the weather was warm, but not scorching. The cool nights meant that the vines did not have the same stress as last year.
The start of August was similar with high temperat...

2004 VINTAGE in Burgundy

2004 will be remembered as the year of wonderful surprises. The month of September was hot, dry and sunny contributing to an excellent harvest which in turn gave birth to fruity, elegant wines.
The harvest started on the 13th September in Burgundy, the Mâconnais and the Côte Chalonnaise during a long awaited spell of mild weather following a summer characterised by climatic instability. 

These conditions slowed down the colouring of the grapes, disturbed the start of ripening and provided ideal conditions for the development of oidium. Luckily the return of a long period of warmth and sun from the beginning of September onwards accelerated the ripening process with a sharp increase in sugars. 

This summery weather accompanied by a warm drying wind also allowed for the vines to maintain a satisfactory sanitary state. The hailstorms unfortunately destroyed a number of important parcels in the Mâconnais and in the vineyards of the Côte d?Or at different stages of their vegetative cycle. Contrary to 2003, nature showed herself to be kind and the wine-growers had to go ahead with intensive green harvesting to control the yields, taking off the damaged grapes or leaf-thinning. 

In mid-september estimations put the forthcoming harvest at about 10% above that of an average harvest. 

Although the particularly successful 2002 and 2003 vintages are tasting beautifully at the moment, it is still to early to define the profile for the 2004 vintage. 

We will have to wait until after various tastings in November in Beaune, Chablis and in the Auxerrois region before getting a preliminary idea of the qualities of the 2004 harvest.

A great example of how large yields do not necessarily mean poor quality in Champagne. As a reaction to the previous year's low yields, the vines produced one of the largest crops on record. The growing season proceeded without major difficulties but the bumper crop called for bud thinning. August brought about cooler weather and some rains, increasing the risk of rot. The massive crop, averaging 13,990 kg/ha, was picked from September 18th onwards. The quality was a pleasant surprise; vibrant wines with appropriate intensity, refined charm and refreshing lightness. This vintage impresses me more and more, and I feel tempted to give it the full five stars. It comes with a rare balance of freshness, lightness, yet fine aromatic intensity. Post-release, this vintage has proven to be slow to age, and elegant wines are likely to keep on ageing gracefully. Dom Pérignon and Louis Roederer Cristal both excelled.

Early bud break led to one of the earliest harvests in memory

In 2004, bud break occurred earlier than many vintners could remember, and the trend carried forward throughout the growing season. Heat spikes happened in June and at scattered intervals throughout the summer season. Grapes completed veraison early and ripeness with well-developed sugars in all varieties was realized early. Growers held on as acid balance eventually caught up. Temperatures were steady into one of the earliest harvests in Napa Valley. Grape quality was very good with a crop that was smaller than average.

Bordeaux Vintage Report by Château Palmer: Unlike the two previous vintages, the weather in 2004 was ideal without excess. Nothing disrupted the normal growing cycle of the vines.

Summer began after a slightly rainy month of June. Even flowering without shot berries was followed by moderate summer temperatures which slowed and lengthened the ripening process. The grapes developed slowly and evenly, ripening perfectly thanks to the dry, sunny September weather which also allowed for patient waiting for each plot to reach its peak.

The grapes fermented gently for 21 days on average. In some cases the emphasis has been placed on extraction early in the vatting period to express all the fruit and richness of the grapes, while in other cases a long skin contact has been preferred to enhance the potency some wine. Compared to 2003, the 2004 vintage is more classically Bordeaux, offering a magnificent combination of all the elegance and finesse of our terroir with the richness and power of a very great year.

Napa Valley Vintage Report: Bud break occurred earlier than many winemakers could remember and the trend continued throughout the growing season. Heat peaks occurred in June and at scattered intervals throughout the summer season. The grapes completed veraison early and maturity with well-developed sugars in all varieties was achieved early. Producers held on as the acid balance finally caught up. Temperatures were stable in one of the Napa Valley's early harvests. The quality of the grapes was very good with a smaller than average harvest.

Burgundy: After exceptional climatic conditions for the 2003 vintage, the autumn and winter rains gave the soil a good water profile.

The winter, without being very cold, was very long and the vine buds slowly unfolded during the month of April.

In areas where frost raged in 2003 (Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet and Chablis), the yield of the grapes is high. No frost damage, but cool weather prevents branches from growing quickly.

Powdery mildew threatens both PINOT NOIR and CHARDONNAY and treatment must be carried out on time. Flowering occurs slowly but in good condition. The grapes are numerous and robust. Disbudding and green harvesting are necessary to limit yields.

In July, hail fell on Volnay, in some cases destroying 50% of the future harvest.
August is not very hot and the nights are cool. At the end of the month, the garaps are not ripe and the harvest date is delayed...
From the beginning of September, dry and sunny weather sets in. The anticyclone settled in definitively and a prevailing north wind concentrated the juice. Maturity is making great progress and the harvest begins on September 20.

Pinot Noir on the Côte de Beaune

The harvest volume is more limited than that of Chardonnay. After strict selection on certain plots, the wines have a lovely color and the result is pleasant. The level of malic acidity disrupts the balance in the mouth until malolactic fermentation occurs. All wines produced in 2004 were vinified from grapes.

Chardonnay on the Côte de Beaune
The quantity of production is generally high (50-70 hl/ha). Pushing back the harvest date every day allowed me to gain concentration. The acidity, low during pressing, has a wide proposition of malic acid. Wines will not have excessive acidity after malolactic fermentation. Only the juice extracted at low pressure was preserved. The sugar level, without being exceptional, gives natural alcohol between 11°20 and 13°. After fermentation, the overall quality level is quite good. If sufficiently long and gentle maturation (low stirring) can be carried out on numerous batches, certain wines will be bottled at the start of the season to preserve aromatic freshness. 55% of our supplies consisted of grapes, the rest of must (pressed grapes).

Australia 2004 Vintage Report

The Australian wine industry achieved a record vintage in 2004, with an estimated crush of 1.86 million tonnes—40% more than the drought affected 2003 vintage and 23% more than the previous record vintage of 1.51 million tonnes in 2002.

Increased crop levels were recorded across almost all varieties, with bearing areas up around 5% on 2003 and above average yields in virtually all parts of Australia.

Red winegrape production increased by 293,000 tonnes to 1.07 million tonnes (surpassing 1 million tonnes for the first time) and accounted for 57% of total production. Specialist white winegrape production (i.e. excluding the multi-purpose varieties of Sultana, Muscat Gordo Blanco and Waltham Cross) increased by 196,000 tonnes to 672,000 tonnes (representing 36% of total production). The substantial increase in red winegrapes will provide both a challenge and opportunity for the industry’s export sales program. The aggravated supply position relates primarily to cool climate production with the intake of warm climate red winegrapes considered to be more balanced with domestic and export demand for branded products at ‘popular premium’ price points. The increased intake of white winegrapes will assist in alleviating the shortage of some premium white varieties, especially Chardonnay, and a more balanced position is expected for most regions.

Good winter rainfalls and favourable weather conditions during spring and summer have delivered a disease free vintage of ‘above average’ to ‘outstanding’ quality across all regions. One of the longest vintages in recent times, the dry, warm and stable conditions boosted red winegrape production in particular. Both warm and cool climate regions exceeded quality and yield expectations in 2004.

Production of the top two specialist red varieties Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon increased by 43% and 41% respectively on the 2003 vintage. Shiraz production increased by 133,000 tonnes to 442,000 tonnes to maintain its dominance as Australia’s largest volume winegrape variety, accounting for 24% of total production. Cabernet Sauvignon production increased by 92,000 tonnes to 317,000 tonnes, accounting for 17% of total production. Merlot production increased by 35% to 125,000 tonnes, representing 7% of the total winegrape crush. Pinot Noir recorded a 52% increase on 2003, with production rising to 42,000 tonnes while Grenache production rose by 31% in 2004 to 26,000 tonnes.

Chardonnay recorded an increase of 95,000 tonnes to 329,000 tonnes compared to 2003, representing 18% of the total winegrape production. Semillon was up by 34% or 26,000 tonnes to 103,000 tonnes compared to 2003. Colombard also contributed to the vintage increase, with production up from 53,000 tonnes in 2003 to 72,000 tonnes in 2004. Riesling intake increased by 26% to 37,000 tonnes, but was overtaken by Sauvignon Blanc production which doubled to 43,000 tonnes. 

The production of multipurpose grapes was also favoured by seasonal conditions, with the crush of 122,000 tonnes up by 42,000 tonnes (52%) on 2003. When compared to the overall vintage, multipurpose grapes’ share declined from 30% of total production in 1994 to 7% in 2004.

There have been significant changes in the profile of Australian winegrape production over the past 10 years. Production has increased by 180% since 1994, driven by growth in export volumes of some 350% over the same period.

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay now account for almost 60% of total production, up from 27% in 1994.

The projected production for 2005 and 2006 is 1.89* million tonnes and 1.95* million tonnes respectively. These projections indicate that, assuming ‘normal’ seasonal conditions, there will be a 2% increase in production in 2005 and a further 3% increase in production in 2006.

Port Vintage Report by Taylor:  The 2003/2004 winter was very dry; having only rained 1/3 of the quantity registered the previous winter. With these conditions, and following a hot and dry season on the previous year, the growing season started with very low reserves of water. Budburst occurred from the 17th March, and until flowering only a further 30 mm of rain were recorded. The vines reacted to these extreme conditions by reducing the vigour of the canopies. Additionally the fertility of the vines was less both in the number of bunches as well as their size, with Tinta Roriz and Tinta Amarela being the most affected.

From Flowering to Veraison, which started in the A Grade vineyards on the 5th July, 18mm of rain was recorded in Vale de Mendiz. The lack of water during the early part of the growing season led to very little pressure from disease. Our concern in July was mainly one of doubting the vines capacity to ripen the grapes due to the drastic shortage of water.

In contrast to the previous summer where the extreme heat concentrated the grapes, the 2004 summer was particularly cool, with only one day above 40ºC being registered in Vale de Mendiz. However, it was the steady rains of mid-August, 38mm in Vale de Mendiz and 57mm at Vargellas, that saved the year and gave the vines the capacity to ripen the crop. A cool beginning of September resulted in the vintage starting later than normal during the week of the 20th September, by which time hot days quickly led the grapes to come in above 15º Baumé. The vintage stood out for the perfect weather conditions for the whole period. Grape yields were 25% down in relation to 2003 and the Ports produced from the Cima Corgo and Douro Superior are of a very high standard. The young Ports show good structure with very fresh berry fruit aromas, resulting from the cooler than normal ripening period.

Italy Vintage Report by Tb: 2004 was the exact opposite of 2003: a long cold winter and wet spring pushed back the blooming period. An unusual long and warm summer and autumn as well as a surprisingly warm October with cold nights gave the grapes a stunning concentration, nuance and aroma. The end result was a bevy of exceptionally elegant wines, which looked forward to a long life, but could also be enjoyed young.