1990

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Early, uniform flowering, a hot but unspectacular summer and an exceptionally hot period at the end of August 1990 and the first half of September. It was this heat that allowed the record harvest not only to fully ripen, but also to concentrate the fruit. Harvesting began on September 14 and was completed before the start of heavy rains on October 2. Another reason for the success of the vintage was that most châteaux had invested in their cellars and were able to work with such a large and hot harvest. It was now possible to control fermentation temperatures better than in previous warm vintages, such as 1947. The grapes produced wines with such a high level of natural alcohol that chaptalization became unnecessary. They showed deep color, high and unusually sweet tannin levels and better acidity than expected, as well as great concentration of fruit. The hype was great, particularly thanks to the advent of new wine magazines - this was the vintage that cemented Robert Parker's reputation. Prices rose quickly and haven't looked back since. I remember that all Premiers Crus (including Pétrus) were offered to end consumers for around 50 euros en primeur in 1983.

The scene of the arrival of the 1990 vintage was quite different. There was a surplus of very good to great wine on the market – for the first time, there was talk of three great vintages in succession. This led most châteaux to drop their prices by around 20% from their 1989 prices, even though the quality was exceptional. There had been a steady increase in prices during the 1980s, but they had now more or less returned to the opening prices of the 1982s. This was again a record harvest, but as most châteaux had already introduced a "second wine" and were more selective regarding quality, there was actually less wine bottled under the name "Grand Vin" than in 1982.

We have been following these two vintages since they were young, as they were both precocious and easy to drink from the start. The best wines from both vintages are spectacular, but the overall quality is much higher in 1990. Here, the wines have been equally successful on both sides of the river, and even the small châteaux have produced something special. We always found most Right Bank 1982s to be overly alcoholic and lacking in structure; Indeed, many age quickly.

1990 VINTAGE in Burgundy

This is probably the vintage of reference for many people in Burgundy. Exceptional climatic conditions allowed an abundant crop to mature perfectly and yield some most sensational wines in both red and white. The white wines have maintained their elegant aromas and freshness which has made them even more appealing, whilst the reds are concentrated and well built with tannins which remain firm but smooth. To be enjoyed for many years to come.

The drought that had plagued farming in 1989 again took its toll in many parts of France in 1990 with the notable exception of the best vineyards in France, including those of Burgundy.This year in the vineyards of the Côte d'Or the weather conditions resembled those of the French Riviera.

At this time, the natural sugar level in the Corton Charlemagne was 14 degrees and in the best vineyards of Corton Grancey the famous "degré 13" was consistently attained. Monsieur Duvaud-Blochet, a famous wine-grower of the 19th century, theorized on this rarely obtained level of sugar declaring that it was undeniably the bench-mark of quality.

A long awaited brief period of rain at the end of August really saved the vintage. The return of sunshine after this short spell of bad weather allowed an already abundant crop to perfectly mature and to yield a considerable quantity of very high quality wines in both reds and whites.

This however does not mean that all 1990 wines will be good. Over-production in some cases, picking prematurely in others, and also the consequences of drought on some slopes had an effect on quality.

 The fact remains that all regions of Burgundy have benefitted from three successive fine vintages. 1990 is surely the biggest in size and of a quality which is at least equal to that of 1989.

It is not impossible that in due course we will see the best of the 1990 being of the quality of some of the excellent vintages of the past like `64 and possibly even `59.

It is of the utmost importance for Burgundy to be in a position to offer such a selection of fine wines from recent vintages. The 1988's are still a little austere but are beginning to show all the qualities of a classic vintage. The 89's are plentiful and rich for the whites, charming and easygoing for the reds and the 90's could well be a combination of both.

Nobody knows as yet what will be the effects on prices. What is sure is that any expectation of further price increases is obviously denied by the wine- growers. A healthy decline in the prices compared to those paid last year would be welcomed by the Trade and accepted by them. In due course this will be reflected in the quotations and will help Burgundy to recover its share of the world fine wine markets.

Three excellent vintages in Champagne were 1988, 1989 and 1990. Initially, many considered 1990 the finest of the trio, but that mantle has since passed to 1988. Some of the 1990 champagnes have evolved more quickly than anticipated, and there can be variation among bottles and producers. Winter and early spring saw warm weather that resulted in an early bud-break, making vines susceptible to the spring frost which duly arrived in April. This led to some uneven ripening and differing levels of maturity owing to the second generation of grapes that appeared after the frost damage and thus ripened later. The summer was generally dry and warm, which produced big, powerful, concentrated and full-flavoured wines.

In 1990, Napa Valley recorded a season of cool growing conditions and low crop yields, promising exceptional wine. Cooler than normal winter weather resulted in late bud break. Flowering and fruit set were delayed by seasonal conditions and rain at the end of May. Normal summer temperatures were followed by ideal harvest conditions.

With the advent of the 1990s, Italian wine production finally entered the modern age. The pioneers of modern winemaking had succeeded in their efforts to show the world, not to mention politicians, the potential of Italian wine production. This was demonstrated in 1992 with the implementation of the new IGT classification, whose purpose was to lift the super wines out of the Vina da Tavola category from the disgraceful Italian quality classification system. Conversely, a number of producers gave up their DOC or DOCG classifications and marketed their wines as IGTs, such as Angelo Gaja’s Barbaresco and Barolo cru wines and Roberto Anselmi’s Soave wines.

1990 was the ideal kickoff for this stunning decade. A hot and dry summer with cool nights and light rain set the stage for a small, but exceptional crop, perhaps the finest seen since the 1940s. Piedmont brought in an excellent crop for the third year in a row. However, the rains were distributed considerably more evenly in 1990. Tuscany enjoyed similar weather conditions, and, as in Piedmont, the grapes ripened earlier than usual. Overall, 1990 produced very elegant, nuanced, ripe fruited and concentrated wines, which still have great maturation potential.

California and New Zealand

Napa Valley by Bob Levy/Harlan Estate:

In 1990, we received about half of normal precipitation and recorded winter temperatures well below average. Cool weather continued until mid-March, delaying bud break until mid-April. For several days in early May, temperatures reached between 80° and 100°, the remainder of the month cooled considerably, resulting in flowering beginning in the last week of May when temperatures dropped. oscillated around 70°. Summer weather was generally uniform and moderate, with some bursts of heat in June, July and August. A compact harvest began on August 31 with young vine Merlot and ended on September 17. Yields were low, averaging only 1.6 tons per acre.

Napa valley: Spring rains during flowering reduced the size of the harvest somewhat, but the long hot summer that followed allowed the grapes to ripen evenly and achieve fruit ripeness, acid levels and almost perfect sugar content. The mild weather during the harvest allowed the picking to take place at a normal pace and the late rains arrived too late in the season to do much damage. With red and white grape varieties showing excellent balance, the vintage was judged overall to be of better quality and slightly lower quantity.

New Zealand by Te Mata Estate

The vintage was mid-season calendar-wise, starting in late March and ending May 3. We only had 30mm of rain in April and providentially missed by the deluges that hit Taranaki and Wanganui. The relative merits of 1989 and 1990 compare to those of 1983 and 1982; 1989 and 1983, being years of drought giving intense, weighted and slow-developing wines; 1990 and 1992 giving more fruitiness and suppleness, slightly lower alcohols and medium and long term aging capabilities.

BURGUNDY 1990 by Leflaive / As in 1989, the year 1990 was marked by early growth due to exceptional climatic conditions, comparable to 1941, 1948 and 1961.

The winter was very mild and the spring rainy. The vegetation develops quickly and the first flowers appear on May 21 in the Clavoillon vineyard. Wet and changeable weather during the flowering period brought problems such as “coulure” and “millerandange” (poor fruit set), reducing a harvest that seemed abundant.

Thanks to the hot and dry conditions of July and August, the vines benefited from around a hundred more hours of sunshine than the average of the previous 40 years. The harvest at Domaine Leflaive began on September 19. An excellent harvest of healthy grapes with natural degrees between 12.5° and 14° was brought.
The acidity, even higher than in 1985, gives the wines exceptional balance, incomparable richness and fruitiness. A classic wine for long bottle aging, already showing honey aromas.

One of the great vintages of Domaine Leflaive since 1978.

Vintage Reports by Richard Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon and Salon

After a particularly rapid growth of vegetation, Champagne was hit hard by the spring frosts of April. Flowering is therefore difficult in cold and rainy conditions. The decline in flowers and the uneven development of the grapes are only compensated by the large number of clusters and the large branches. A summer heat wave then sets in and persists until generous rains in the days preceding the harvest (September 11). The musts have an exceptional composition and homogeneous quality; throughout the Champagne region.

Champagne Vintage Report by Salon / A mild and humid winter, spring frosts, spring drought, exceptional sunshine. Early buds arrived early following a mild winter. Because of this prematurity, spring frosts were feared by all - a concern realized on April 5 and 19. 12,000 hectares (45% of the vineyard area) were affected more or less seriously. However, the frozen vines amazed once again with the miraculous fertility of the basic buds. A troubled start to July gave way to warm weather, although with temperatures and precipitation close to normal; However, the atmospheric pressure was exceptional. The Chardonnays opened their doors from September 11 to 15. The ripeness of the grapes was remarkably uniform. The sugar/total acidity ratio was close to perfect. Superb wine.

Rhöne vintage report by Jaboulet: The wines will be of exceptional quality, in particular the Hermitage “La Chapelle” which will be close to the famous 1961.

The summer drought continues until November 19. The first rains follow and bring the dry rivers back to life. Cold weather and first frosts from November 25 to December 10, when the south wind brings a mild period with exceptionally high temperatures for the season. Some violets are to be seen at the end of the year!
The cold returns on January 1st and lasts all month. A mild and rainy period sets in at the beginning of February with the appearance of the first almond blossom. This weather continues throughout late winter, triggering the flowering of apricot and peach trees on February 26 and 27.

Spring is cool and wet, with rains that encourage growth. The flowering of the vines is almost finished on May 30. Summer is very dry with a heatwave. At the end of July, the evening temperature reaches 38°C.
Light rain (3 to 20 mm) falls just before the harvest, which begins on September 19, in ideal weather, and ends on October 1. The ripening of the grapes and their harvest take place in ideal conditions.