2021

NEWS: BORDEAUX 2021 VINTAGE by Pros: What do the critics think?

Antonio Galloni, Vinous: “The 2021 Bordeaux turned out to be such a surprise. The weather conditions were difficult, and yet the best properties turned out magnificent and classic wines that will absolutely delight readers who appreciate freshness and energy. The restrained alcohols and mid-weight structures will remind readers of Bordeaux before the 2000s. The best wines offer a striking combination of old-school classicism with modern precision. The quality is inconsistent, however, so choosing carefully is essential. Still, there's a lot to love about 2021."

At the Wine Advocate, William Kelley was one of the first to publish his report on the vintage, with largely positive comments on the region's top estates. He underlines his thoughts by reminding his readers: “We may have lost the habit of tasting wines with a moderate alcohol level and a classic pH en primeur, but anyone who appreciates the great Bordeaux reference wines of the 1980s and 1990 should seriously think about what the 2021s might have to offer in 10-15 years. It’s a style of wine that could come from nowhere else. »

Matthew Jukes: “In many cases they can rightly be said to have triumphed over Mother Nature through their tenacity, experience and tireless work ethic, and the best wines are singular in their purity, freshness and their unusual resonance... If a château has a noble terroir, a fully dedicated team, cutting-edge technology (to sort clean, pure, ripe fruit from the weaker berries) and a slice of luck, then it doesn't there is no excuse not to make fabulous wine... This is a classic example of a vintage where each wine must be tasted individually... Suffice it to say, I have found some exquisite wines in 2021, and they are all pure, long, refreshing, perfectly elegant and refined, and the quintessence of the vineyard plots from which they were harvested.

Decanter's Georgie Hindle also notes the marked contrasts with recent blockbuster vintages: "It's not a big, opulent, sumptuous year [...] The heat and sunlight just haven't been enough to produce the sunny fruits, high alcohol and uber glamor on display in great vintages like 2016 and 2018. However, what we get instead is freshness and elegance, racy acidity, more spirits weak, balance where it is successful and a real sense of terroir and grape signatures in the glass. She also reminds us of the benefit of this more restrained style: “It is likely that they will present earlier consumption opportunities compared to more robust and mellow vintages. »

Jane Anson (who has the advantage of being based full-time in Bordeaux) had several ideas about who would inevitably be more successful in 2021. The first came down to the estate's resources: "It's undoubtedly a vintage which rewards estates that have a talented team of full-time collaborators who work in the vineyards throughout the year, and who know their terroir. It rewarded skillful and timely decision-making. Those who subcontracted vineyard work were at a disadvantage. » The best wines of the vintage revealed in his opinion: “Classic balance and lower alcohols. Malic acid levels were high at harvest, but after malolactic fermentation, pH and acidity levels were overall classically balanced, resulting in wines that were fruity and supple in texture. And finally, unlike vintages where all the hard work could be done in the vineyard, the complex work in 2021 only continued in the cellar, “Skillful winemaking. We have gotten into the habit of repeating that wine is made in the vineyard. This is of course still true, but in 2021 it was abundantly clear that the best wines are also sometimes made in cellars.

Honest Grapes: Let’s not forget the white ones either. The quality here is more consistent than the reds, and Jancis Robinson proclaims that "in general, the dry whites are brilliantly crisp, aromatic and well-defined with ample fruit, while the sweet whites are some of the best ever, though that most of them are produced in catastrophic quantities.” Haut Brion & La Mission produced sensational whites, among the “finest sets of dry whites since 2017” for William Kelley. Meanwhile, Georgie Hindle reports that "the whites are excellent and perhaps more consistent across the board, with plenty of freshness, vibrancy and clarity on the palate."

BURGUNDY 2021 Vintage report

The 2021 vintage was a challenge for winegrowers right up until the very last day. From the frost in April, made worse by a very early start to the winegrowing season, right through to the September harvest, it was characterized by some brutal shifts in the weather. Winegrowers had to be extremely reactive and attentive. The only moment of respite came with flowering, which was ideal for fruit formation, and véraison, which was accompanied by sunshine from mid-August. In the end, hard work was rewarded with success, low volumes aside. Indeed, while conveying his hope that the 2022 vintage will offer an easier ride, François Labet, co-president of the BIVB confirmed his opinion that, “Small is beautiful!”

Aside from the low yields due to frost, and hail in June in certain parts of the Mâconnais, the grapes were sorted meticulously, both in the vines and in the winery. The capricious weather in July and early August encouraged the development of pockets of disease, but these were fortunately contained thanks to the efforts of the winemakers and the return of dry weather later in August.

The general opinion is that the 2021 is an interesting vintage to work with because it requires great technical skill and vinification must be very precise. Although fermentation was rapid, one had to pay a great deal of attention to the extraction of tannins and color for the reds, and to the aromatic balance of the whites.

The impression from the first tastings is that the musts have good aromatic potential and the sugar-acidity ratio suggests a style appreciated by fans of Bourgogne wines.

The California 2021 vintage will be remembered for low yields with intensely-flavored, small-sized berries and a smooth and uneventful harvest season. The season started off with very little rain, leading to the 2nd year of drought conditions in Napa Valley, Harvest began early with white wine grapes picked on July 30th and red wine grapes beginning on August 31. While concerning in the long term, the drought of 2021 resulted in a more natural load on the vines, requiring less pruning and dropping of fruit. The resulting grapes are packed full of flavor. Winemakers across the valley are excited about the prospects of the 2021s and it is likely the smaller yields per vine and smaller berry size will result in another amazing vintage from Napa Valley.

2021 Barossa Valley Vintage Report

Following two particularly dry seasons, many were hoping for Mother Nature to be much kinder, and mostly she was. Winter rainfall in 2020 recorded 148mm, the same as winter 2019, (22% below average). The majority of this rainfall was in the latter half of August, with the rain continuing into September and October. This was ideal timing to replenish soil profiles to field capacity moving into budburst in October. However, dry conditions ensued throughout November and into summer with the growing season rainfall from October to March measuring 129mm, 42% below average. The calendar year of 2020 recorded 455.8mm, 160mm higher than 2019.

Some frost damage occurred on 27 September, when temperatures plunged to -0.3°C. However, many varieties were only just emerging and widespread damage thankfully was avoided.

November recorded 4 days above 35°C, pushing the monthly maximum temperature to 28°C - 4°C warmer than previous years. However, conditions throughout summer were relatively mild with December recording its lowest maximum temperature since 2014, and all months recording monthly maximums below average. Cool, dewy mornings and maximum temperatures below 30°C for the majority of January provided optimal ripening conditions.

Conditions were quite favourable during flowering, allowing bunches to set and good fruit development. Veraison started in late January-early February and the cooler conditions and some rain in early February helped to plump up berries and provide some relief to soil moisture profiles. Minimum temperatures for February were 1.4°C below average and maximums were 1.2°C below average.

Whilst yield varied between vineyards, it was welcome relief to achieve close to average crops in comparison to the last two seasons.

There was much anticipation that labour resources required for hand picking would not be available this vintage due to border closures, but with the cooler weather slowing ripening, vintage was less compressed than previous years and it was much easier to source labour than first thought. Harvest continued well into April as the dry Indian summer continued to ripen the grapes.

Quality is exceptional across the varieties and styles from 2021. Reds have intense, rich and balanced flavours and colours; whites have lovely aromatics, finesse and great natural acidity.

2021 was a clear reminder that while the Douro is undoubtedly being shaped by the impacts of climate change, the weather continues to be unpredictable. Following a succession of very hot and dry years in the Douro, the 2021 growth cycle and harvest were some of the coolest in recent years. The region experienced an unusually cool summer with none of the heat waves that have become common. Moderate conditions in 2021 encouraged slower, gradual maturations with balanced ripening, while the harvest was defined by three key periods of rain.

SOUTH AFRICA – 2020/2021 harvest report

The weather was moderate in most areas during the post-harvest period, leading to later leaf fall than normal and good reserves being built up by the vines. Producers also had access to sufficient water for post-harvest irrigation.

The winter was colder than the previous season, with much higher precipitation, which replenished water resources and led to enough cold accumulation to break dormancy.

Cold, wet weather continued into spring, which contributed to uniformity but delayed bud break and initial growth. In the coastal region, however, wetter conditions have made the timing of disease control more difficult.

Frost damage occurred in some irrigation areas and significant frost damage was expected in lower areas of the Northern Cape and strong winds in the South Cape Coast region have a significant effect on these crops. Fortunately, the frost and wind occurred at an early enough stage of development for the vines to recover.

Flowering and turning were generally efficient and consistent, while shoot and leaf growth accelerated in early November, requiring additional inputs from growers to manage the rapid and vigorous growth.

Temperatures remained moderate during the summer, slowing ripening and causing the harvest to begin about two weeks later than normal. Although most wine regions experienced little precipitation during the grape harvest period, there were also no characteristic heat waves, and lower daytime and nighttime temperatures throughout the season drove the producers to wait patiently for the grapes to reach optimal maturity. Overview of regions

Breedekloof: A very late season, characterized by a good balance between yield and quality, as the vines developed healthy canopies during a moderate growing season.

South Cape Coast: Difficult weather conditions resulted in a smaller harvest, but allowed producers to produce cool climate wines of exceptional quality.

Klein Karoo: Moderate weather conditions, good water availability and sufficient winter rainfall in some areas have resulted in a larger, high-quality harvest, although drought conditions still persist in parts of the region, which puts wine grape producers under great pressure.

Northern Cape: A good wine grape harvest in terms of quality and volume, despite challenges in terms of sugar accumulation and shedding during the peak harvest period.

Olifants River: A later, cooler season resulted in slow ripening, but even a somewhat larger and exceptional quality wine grape harvest.

Paarl: Good water availability, sufficient reserves and cooler weather contributed to yields equal to those of 2020, which will result in elegant wines.

Robertson: Although the season was long and prolonged, the vineyards produced a high quality and exceptional yield.

Stellenbosch: A smaller harvest, but grapes of exceptional quality, resulting in great wines with good aging potential.

Swartland{C}: Consumers can expect exceptional wines from this year's harvest, following moderate weather conditions and slow maturation.

Worcester: One of the last harvests recorded in this region, bringing with it a larger wine grape harvest and notable wines.

CALIFORNIA 2021 HARVEST REPORT – Exceptional quality!

California winemakers predict the 2021 vintage will be one of the best in recent memory, while Golden State winemakers enjoyed a smooth harvest after a season of moderate and consistent growing.

Picking started early in many areas, including the North Coast, a week to several weeks ahead of average. The Central Coast appellations experienced a cool year which resulted in a later than average start.

Grapes for sparkling wines are usually the first to be picked in California, but this year, some still white wine varietals, such as Sauvignon Blanc, were the first to ripen. Additionally, varieties that do not normally reach maturity at the same time ripen simultaneously, forcing vineyard teams in some regions to choose multiple varieties at once.

The ongoing drought has presented challenges for grape growers, leading to reduced yields, but wine growers report exceptional quality and high concentration in the fruit.

California produces about 80% of the country's wine, making it the fourth largest wine-producing region in the world. More than 80% of California wine is made in a certified sustainable California vineyard and more than half of the state's 637,000 acres of vineyards are certified under one of California's sustainability programs (Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing, Fish Friendly Farming, LODI RULES, Napa Green and SIP-Certified). In addition to preserving the land for future generations, many sustainable practices used by the state's winemakers help make the harvest and growing season go more smoothly and improve the quality of the wine.

Reviews from winemakers across California

“The weather was excellent this year, with mild temperatures at the end of the growing season,” said Ted Henry, director of viticulture at Groth Vineyards in Oakville in the Napa Valley. “We had a little more time to ripen the flavors before removing the fruit from the vine. » Yields were lower due to smaller clusters and berries, but otherwise the vintage was free of significant problems. “I think 2021 will be a premier vintage in Napa Valley,” Henry said. “The reds are very dark and extracted, with a nice balance and freshness. The Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon stood out as exceptional, and the whites were bright, fresh and full of flavor.

Rodney Strong Vineyards in Healdsburg, Sonoma County, began picking about a week earlier than normal on August 8. The season passed without heat peaks or cold waves.

“What was crazy was the condensed maturation of all the different varieties at the same time,” said Justin Seidenfeld, director of winemaking. “I had a day where I picked Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet, Merlot, Grenache Blanc and Zinfandel. This is not a normal day for us. » Yields were down around 14% overall, while Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were around average. “The quality and color of the wine, as well as the development of the tannins, are among the best I have ever seen,” Seidenfeld said. “Our Bordeaux reds are incredible. It will be an extraordinary vintage, that’s for sure. »

Corey Beck, executive vice president of production and head winemaker at Delicato Family Wines, also noted a decline in yields. “We faced drought conditions in Napa and Sonoma County, which caused cluster weights to drop,” he said. “The good news is that we are seeing a fantastic concentration of flavors and colors in our reds. Our Lodi and Central Coast vineyards share a similar history due to moderate summer conditions and drought, which resulted in a lighter grape structure. Beck is particularly excited about Chardonnay, which shows vibrant flavors, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon. “The wines in the fermenters at all sites have very nice ripe flavors and good concentration,” he said. “The acids are a little higher than usual, so the wines are very bright. The concentration and cleanliness of the fruit are two pillars that make 2021 such an autonomous harvest.

REGIONAL HARVEST REPORTS:

AMADOR COUNTY

Total winegrape acreage: 3,644

Most planted grape varieties: Zinfandel and Barbera 

Amador County vintners reported extremely good quality and smaller-than-normal yields. After a dry winter, bud break and flowering happened as normal, followed by a hot summer. The start of harvest was not particularly early, but once it began, ripening accelerated for all varieties at once. Rather than spanning from the end of August to the end of October or early November, harvest wrapped up by the end of September — the earliest-ever finish for Amador County. Due to the drought, clusters and berries were small, and yields were down dramatically for growers that did not make up for the lack of winter rainfall with irrigation. Yields ranged from normal to 50% to 60% less than average. Fruit came in beautifully ripe, concentrated and dark, with great complexity and tannin structure. Acidity levels are moderate, with fruit showing lower pH and higher total acidity levels due to smaller crop sizes. Winemakers are seeing phenomenal quality for Amador’s signature red varieties, including Zinfandel, Barbera, Syrah, Grenache and Tempranillo. 

EL DORADO COUNTY

Total winegrape acreage: 2,219

Most planted grape varieties: Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah 

The 2021 growing season in El Dorado County kicked off with great promise that had vintners excited about quality. The region experienced no spring frosts, and bud break and flowering occurred at the normal times despite warmer temperatures. Summer weather was warm-to-hot, with warm temperatures persisting into the night. This had vintners preparing for an early harvest during July and August until the Caldor Fire started in mid-August, altering schedules and priorities. The fire presented many challenges, including evacuations for some areas, labor issues and smoky conditions that lasted for several weeks. The timing of evacuation zones hindered growers’ ability to irrigate vineyards. Yields were down about 15% overall, as some fruit was left on the vines due to smoke exposure impact. Prior to the fire, vintners reported fantastic fruit quality, with beautiful color extraction, deep flavors and great balance. While it’s still too early to determine the full extent of smoke exposure impacts, white varieties are tasting particularly good, and Mourvèdre is showing good pH and acid profiles. Vintners will re-evaluate the wines in a few months, once they have had a chance to settle.

LAKE COUNTY

Total winegrape acreage: 10,009

Most planted grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc

Lake County wineries reported amazing promise for the 2021 vintage. Spring growing conditions in this high-elevation region prompted bud break a few days to a week earlier than average. Wind and light rain during flowering may have contributed to the lighter-than-average crop for some growers. Almost all areas reported very light clusters, which facilitated steady ripening and an early harvest. Generally, growers in Lake County see a short break between the harvest of white and red varieties. However, this year the harvest for reds followed immediately after whites with no break. Harvest around the county was almost complete by early October.

LIVERMORE VALLEY

Total winegrape acreage: 4,000

Most planted grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot 

Livermore Valley vintners are excited about the quality of the 2021 vintage, with both reds and whites showing beautifully. With steady, warm days and few extreme heat events, the growing season was similar to 2019 in terms of growing degree days and heat accumulation. Flowering was extended due to cold, windy weather, which caused shatter in red varieties. Harvest began earlier than normal, but was elongated due to temperate weather. For those who had not completed harvest by Oct.17, a week of heavy rain created challenges at the finish line. The drought impacted berry size in red varieties across the board. Yields were moderate, with white varieties at just about average or a bit above, and red varieties at about 85% of expected yields. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot are especially impressive this year — fruit-forward, with great acidity and beautiful structure. 

LODI

Total winegrape acreage: 100,000

Most planted grape varieties: Cabernet, Chardonnay and Zinfandel 

The 2021 growing season in Lodi was characterized by the drought’s effects on vineyards, and a compressed harvest. Impacts began in November 2020 with an early deep freeze that led to uneven growth and dieback in some vineyards. These conditions did not reveal themselves until spring, when stunted or lack of growth became apparent — causing uneven growth and reduced yields. Harvest began in early August, but by the beginning of September all the major varieties began to ripen simultaneously. This led to high sugars as growers and vintners struggled to keep up. The drought continues to impact all of Lodi’s farmers. Although most vineyards have access to water for irrigation, they did not receive the benefits of a good winter soaking. Drought conditions led to reduced yields, particularly in older vineyards, as well as some vine death. Growers reported average to light-average yields across the region for the major varieties. Labor shortages affected all aspects of the business. Vintners struggled this year to find and retain machine operators and tractor drivers to machine harvest grapes, and shortages extended into trucking and winery operations. All of the region’s major varieties fared well, and quality looks excellent. Reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah ripened earlier than normal, allowing them to retain more natural acidity. 

MENDOCINO COUNTY

Total winegrape acreage: 17,379

Most planted grape varieties: Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir

Mendocino County reported very good quality and lower yields as hallmarks of the 2021 vintage. After a dry winter, spring brought dry, cold conditions, with a higher-than-average number of frost days. Bud break happened earlier than normal while flowering and fruit set was uneven in most varieties, resulting in poor yields. Harvest began two to three weeks ahead of normal, depending on the variety and region. Labor was a significant challenge for wineries, with many running at half capacity for the 2021 harvest and relying more on automation. The drought had a major impact on this year’s crop, leading to very low yields for many varieties — especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc. However, the smaller crop size helped to enhance quality. White varieties are showing good sugar accumulation and a high amount of natural acidity. Reds have lower-than-normal Brix levels and higher levels of natural acidity, as well as good tannin structure compared to other warm vintages. Early ripening varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have excellent potential across many sub-appellations while Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon are showing well in the county’s inland areas.

MONTEREY COUNTY

Total winegrape acreage: 45,915

Most planted grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon

The Monterey County region experienced a compressed harvest in 2021, following a cool, long growing season. Set was average to average-plus depending upon the location and microclimate. Approximately two-thirds of the region’s rainfall occurred in a 72-hour period, which placed some stress on the vines. Growers monitored the stress and water levels and responded with drip irrigation. While other areas of the state were baking in heat, Monterey County was covered in a marine layer — particularly in the summer. The extended coolness and lack of summer degree days resulted in high acids and low sugars, which took time to balance out. The two did come together when the long summer marine layer moved off the coast in September, providing sunshine and heat. The 2021 harvest didn't get fully underway until mid-September, and multiple varieties that don’t normally ripen at the same time were ready to be picked simultaneously. Vintners managed to stay on top of the situation despite the stress on tank space and people power, and wineries brought in more fruit than initially expected. Vintners are reporting good quality overall, with lower pH levels for reds. The season’s long hang time resulted in refined phenolic development.

NAPA VALLEY

Total winegrape acreage: 45,511

Most planted grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot 

Napa Valley’s vintners are extremely excited about the quality of this year’s vintage. All in all, the growing season was mild and free from issues, though lack of rainfall and a low water table throughout the valley presented challenges. In most cases, harvest began earlier than normal. Due to the drought, berries were very small compared to previous years, and yields in some areas were down 20% to 30% from 2019. Labor issues persisted across the region, with many positions unfilled and winery teams making good with what they had. Fruit quality is great across the board, showing dense, ripe berries.

PASO ROBLES

Total winegrape acreage: 40,000

Most planted grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah 

Paso Roble’s 2021 growing season was kind to the region’s vintners and growers, bringing little-to-no spring frost and a warm summer. As in many regions, Paso Robles experienced a lack of rain. For vineyards that rely on irrigation, watering began early. Heavy winds between bloom and set contributed to loose clusters and shatter, leading to reduced yields. Bud break began for earlier-ripening varieties in late March, followed by later- ripening varieties in mid-to-late April. Vineyards in the western hills saw some extreme heat events earlier in the season, so with naturally low yields and little-to-no irrigation resources, it became a race to pick many vineyards. Some growers thought that harvest would finish early, but fluctuations between warm and cool spells slowed the maturation process. In Paso’s eastern region, grapes took their time and came into balance nicely. The drought had significant impacts in 2021. Average cluster weights decreased 30% to 40% and canopies struggled through the heat with a mature crop. Across the county, yields were down 30% to 40% for most varieties, especially Cabernet Sauvignon. Small berries resulted in high concentration in the fruit and very good quality. Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah struggled this year, while new plantings of Cabernet Franc are doing exceptionally well. 

SAN DIEGO COUNTY

Total winegrape acreage: 682

Most planted grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah 

The San Diego County 2021 crop was lighter than normal, but with the potential for great quality. Weather during the growing season was drier than average, which led growers to begin irrigating earlier in the season and resulted in less pressure from powdery mildew. Bud break and flowering occurred as normal, with few wind or heat episodes. Harvest began neither early nor late. San Diego vintners engaged in less cluster drop this year while maintaining the same yields. Grapes are showing good color and lower pH levels, along with highly developed color, higher Brix levels and great quality. White varieties ripened quickly, while reds matured on a more normal curve.

SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY

Total winegrape acreage: 34,685 

Most planted grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir

San Luis Obispo’s vintners reported a “dream vintage,” characterized by a cool growing season and only one heat spike in mid-June. The lack of winter rainfall led growers to irrigate early; however, there was less evapo-transpiration as a result of the cool summer, so less irrigation was needed. The lack of heat events and moderate, cool weather in September and October made the window of opportunity much longer for picking at optimal grape maturity. Due to the cool growing season, 2021 was one of the latest harvests in recent memory. Yields were average to above average in size. Long hang time on the vines resulted in concentrated flavors and above average acidity —especially for Pinot Noir — and quality is outstanding. 

SANTA BARBARA COUNTY

Total winegrape acreage: 15,452

Most planted grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah 

All signs point to a superb 2021 vintage for Santa Barbara County. The growing season was mild, slow and steady, with consistently mild weather from bud break to harvest. Spring winds and rain were scarce, which allowed for favorable set for all varieties. The season brought little in the way of heat spells and extreme weather, and there were no frost issues. A period in mid-September of extremely wet, drenching fog caused some Botrytis issues in Chardonnay, but precise vineyard management and careful harvesting prevented it from becoming an issue. Grapes developed slowly, with smaller berries than normal, smaller cluster weights and lower yields. The berries came in with great flavor and acidity, with beautiful dark color in the reds. Harvest began in mid-August, about a week behind historical averages. Ripening patterns for different varieties and AVAs were atypical; Pinot Noir in the Sta. Rita Hills was at least two weeks behind, while Bordeaux varieties in Happy Canyon matured early. This led to a big harvest crunch, with many varieties ready for picking at the same time. The biggest challenges came from the lack of available trucks and drivers during harvest. In a few distinct locations, Pinot Noir yields were down drastically, whereas in the Sta. Rita Hills they were above average. The stars of 2021 are Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, which came through in both quality and quantity. Reds — especially Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon — look promising at this early stage. 

SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS

Total winegrape acreage: 1,526

Most planted grape varieties: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay 

Winemakers in the Santa Cruz Mountains are expecting an exceptionally good 2021 vintage. In the region’s coastal areas, heat during flowering caused a mixed fruit set, but mild, even weather conditions persisted post-veraison and all through the ripening period. This resulted in longer hang times at above 20º Brix, which is great for flavor development without high sugars. In eastern areas, weather during the growing season was nicely consistent and even, with low mildew pressure. The heat events that did occur in eastern vineyards were not drawn out. Harvest began late in coastal areas and early on the east side of the appellation. Yields came in at normal levels at the coast, and 15% to 40% lower than normal on the east side. Both the eastern and coastal areas of the Santa Cruz Mountains reported incredibly good quality, with fruit from coastal regions showing great phenolics at lower alcohol levels. Fruit from eastern vineyards is very intense and powerful, though Cabernet Sauvignon had some challenges due to heat events. 

SONOMA COUNTY

Total winegrape acreage: 58,873

Most planted grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon

Sonoma County experienced an excellent growing season overall, getting off to a cold start and progressing to a warm and fast finish. Though 2021 was free from long, lingering heat waves, grapes in Sonoma’s warmer regions matured slightly earlier due to the lighter crop. Grapes from cooler regions ripened at a more normal rate. Harvest started slightly early this year and progressed quickly. The drought brought lower yields, but created intense flavors in the fruit. Since there were no wildfire or smoke exposure issues in 2021, the crop sizes for Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon will be larger than in 2020. Vintners are reporting exceptional-quality fruit across all the major varieties, with great intensity and concentration of flavors. 

TEMECULA VALLEY

Total winegrape acreage: 2,500

Most planted grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Syrah 

Winegrowers reported very good quality across varieties. A relatively cool spring with later-than-normal bud break was followed by a hot summer, but without long stretches of triple-digit temperatures. The growing season was nice and long, which allowed the grapes extra hang time on the vines. While harvest timing was average for whites, reds came in late ranging from a week to three weeks later than typical. For many winegrowers, patience was the year’s biggest challenge in waiting for the red varieties to reach maturity. Labor issues this year were exacerbated by the pandemic, as wineries struggled to find harvest staff to handle daily workloads. Grapes came in with great chemistry, showing lower-than-usual pH, good overall acidity, and Brix levels within a nice range. Fruit looked impressive across varieties, with Zinfandel showing beautiful color and aromas. Yields were good overall compared to the last few years. Wines are showing good varietal character and great color across the board, and winemakers are excited to see how they develop.

CHILE 2021 VINTAGE REPORT

Chile Harvest Overview 2021 2021 is overall a much cooler year with slow ripening that delivered exceptional quality in low-yielding, quality-focused sites and should lead to wines of higher acidity, less d alcohol and good concentration. The season's much-needed winter rains helped with water supplies and gave a boost to dry agricultural regions, although some harsh summer rains reportedly led to a drop in quality for large-volume, high-yielding crops.

In detail, winter 2020 brings relief in increased precipitation, snow and water supplies Winter 2020 brought much-needed rain after the extremely dry previous year – the worst in 60 years – when a state of agricultural emergency had to be declared for much of Chile, including the entire Central Valley, because wells and reservoirs were dry. However, this was not enough to overcome the drought that has plagued since 2010. Miguel Torres Chile, for example, noted 353% more precipitation than in 2019, but the 484 mm recorded in Curicó was still 30% lower to the 20-year average of 701 mm. With climate change predictions of a significant decrease in precipitation for the entire Central Valley, efficient water use has become a priority for most Chilean wineries. However, in a national survey conducted by the Chilean Winegrowers Association (ANIAE), 92% of respondents said that this season they had greater water reserves in the soil than the previous year. This means the year has started well, with buds arriving at the usual time. In terms of temperatures, September was hot and October was variable and some regions – particularly Casablanca and Pirque – were hit by three consecutive nights of frost in October.

A cool summer with a rainy start until February 2021 from November to February, temperatures were lower than usual and the beginning of November and the first two to three weeks of February were cloudy in many areas. Between January 28 and February 2, 2021, rains fell in all areas between the Aconcagua and Osorno valleys, which is very unusual in midsummer. It varied from 10 mm to more than 100 mm and the impact was very variable. In areas less than 30 mm, precipitation tended to have a positive effect, particularly in dry agricultural areas. In other areas, 100mm or more fell in just 48 hours and some areas even had hail. Hardest hit areas and vineyards with poorer draining soils or higher yields suffered from grape splitting, cluster and cane damage, and early cluster rot – made worse by cloudy weather in the following days. However, for most quality-focused sites, rapid action with canopy management techniques (leaf picking, removal of affected clusters, vine treatments) helped avoid any significant health issues.

The emergency lockdown measures that came into effect during the 2020 vintage were certainly a much bigger shock than this year's restrictions, but wineries still had to prepare for some challenges related to harvesting during the COVID-19 pandemic. COVID-19. First, with health restrictions in place, wineries had to reorganize how they harvested and processed grapes, organizing shifts and transportation to and from work with maximum occupancy levels, checking temperatures workers every day, etc. Second, it is common in the wine industry for people to gain experience working at wineries in other countries and many Chilean wineries receive people from countries all over the world. Needless to say, many of them left Chile in 2020 when the pandemic started to get serious and countries started closing their borders and, of course, few foreign workers have arrived since. Third, wineries have struggled for several years to find enough people to perform vineyard tasks because fruit growers (cherries, blueberries, etc.) are able to attract rural workers with higher wages.

Andes Vintage Report 2021: Maipo, Cachapoal, Colchagua Maipo Andes In Maipo Alto: The maturation of grapes was particularly slow with a cooler February and March, and yields are up on the average year. “I’m very optimistic about the quality this year, we have very good acidity,” explains Viña Carmen winemaker Emily Faulconer. “This year we have a very different balance – the wines are very fresh with lower alcohol. I think this is going to be a very good vintage and we have very interesting profiles of wine, it reminds me of 2018 in terms of quality and style. I think it’s going to be a very good year for Cabernet Sauvignon [from Maipo Andes].” With the poor soils in the higher vineyards, the rains also weren’t a problem in low-yielding vineyards but did slow down the season, as Emily explains: “The summer rain here in Maipo [Andes] wasn’t a problem in high-quality vineyards that aren’t overcropped; it just replaced an irrigation effectively. But what it did do was slow things down, and the end of ripening has been very slow because after the rain we had very cold temperatures for this time of year too. The vintage has been very slow… and very long!” Last year, in vintage 2020 most vineyards in Maipo Andes were picked by the end of March whereas this year harvest continued into April.

Cachapoal Andes Emiliano Domínguez from Calyptra in Alto Cachapoal says that although the rain in late January was heavy at Calyptra, botrytis was not a problem as the ground is free-draining and afternoon winds give good air circulation. An unusually cold early February was followed by a very warm late February, aiding ripening, although it is a later harvest than usual. So far the quality looks good with fresher wines than usual. Colchagua Andes Cristóbal Undurraga at Viña Koyle in Alto Colchagua is also predicting a fresh vintage with optimal balance and 25% more yield than last year. “Following two warm vintages, this year is a cool one, comparable with 2011 and 2016,” he says. “February has been cool following the 50mm of rain that fell on 29 January, marshalling in 20 days of cool, cloudy days, extending veraison. The result is crunchy acidity and balanced flavours.”

Entrecordilleras Vintage Report 2021: Maipo, Cachapoal, Colchagua The entrecordillera areas in the Central Valleys received significant rainfall in January with different areas registering between 50mm and even 110 mm in San Javier in Maule. In a few locations there was also hail. The impact varied significantly between producers. Maipo Entrecordilleras Marco Antonio De Martino from Viña de Martino in Isla de Maipo reports that so far the vintage looks good in terms of quality, especially in the Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, which were positively impacted by the rain in late January and the cool weather of February, with ripe fruit and tannins, moderate potential alcohol and fresh acidity – all in all, extraordinary quality. “If we were in the Douro, we’d be calling this a vintage year,” he said. Rafael Urrejola at Viña Undurraga in Maipo says, “concern about potential fungal problems following the rainfall meant we harvested earlier, so this will result in fresher wines and the grapes coming into the winery are showing good balance.

The Cabernet Sauvignon grapes are healthy and have been favoured by the cooler weather so we have high expectations of the Cabernet from Maipo and the reds in general.

The Syrah may be a little affected by botrytis but we will try to avoid this through good viticultural management.” Cachapoal Entre Cordilleras Cristián Vallejo at Viña Vik in the Cachapoal Valley reports that it has been a year with moderate temperatures – autumn and spring were not too cool and summer was moderate and so the thermal variation was not great. He adds that they were well-placed to deal with the rain as they always ensure the vines are well-ventilated. All-in-all, he says they are expecting “spectacular-tasting wines”.  Colchagua Entre Cordilleras Elina Carbonell at Vinos Lugarejo, Colchagua’s smallest winery, explained their vineyards escaped the frost and they were able to dry their clusters of grapes after the January rain, so they remained very healthy and free from botrytis. The cool weather means the grapes are ripening later than they have over the last 7 years and so the quality is looking good. However, because of the pandemic, the friends and family who normally come to help pick the grapes won’t be there. Elina says, “just like last year, this harvest will be lonelier and quieter but with the same energy and passion that we always put into producing Vinos Lugarejo.” Curicó Entrecordilleras “The yields of the whites is down by around 30% with good acidity and alcohol levels lower than last year, mostly because the harvest was brought forward because of the concern about botrytis,” explains Manuela Astaburuaga at Viña Correa Albano in Curicó. “There were problems due to the rain but less than expected. We are just getting underway with harvesting the reds and it’s too early to predict yields but we think they will be slightly higher, with good ripeness and acidity.” Harvesting at La Roncierre’s in Licantén, Curicó.

Interior Secano & dry-farmed areas of Maule, Itata, Biobio and Malleco Producers in the dry-farmed areas known as Secano Interior are predicting a particularly good year. “This is the season for finesse — it’s very specific the area and production,” summed up Eduardo Jordán of Miguel Torres, who works with growers and their own vineyards in the dry-farmed regions of Maule, Itata and Biobio. “There are definitely some winners and some losers — even within the same valley. For example, I think some of the winners are those who are dry farming in the Maule Valley, because in the last two seasons it was very dry and hot and the quality wasn’t the best, but this year the rains really helped these vineyards as the ripeness has been very slow and balanced. This year it really depends on where you are… the vineyards on the slopes in particular have some great quality this year, whereas the valley floor might struggle a bit more. Our dry-farmed vineyards on the steep schist slopes in Empedrado, Maule, are looking fantastic, for example.” Video interview with Eduardo Jordán, Miguel Torres on Vintage 2021  

Wine consultant Fernando Almeda, who has a small vineyard in Maule, adds that by March the dry-farmed, bush-trained vines are normally stressed and very brown for lack of water but the January rainfall this year was a blessing for the vines, which lapped up the water and have more vegetation than normal. Furthermore, the most common varieties grown here are Carignan and País, rustic red varieties that don’t suffer too much from botrytis. Then February was cooler than usual, slowing ripening, meaning that producers are anticipating a vintage with good acidity, concentration and moderate alcohol. Early signs of botrytis in Itata meant that many producers harvested earlier than normal this year, according to Fernando, who says that this earlier harvesting would also make for fresher wines — especially in Cinsault. Daniella Gillmore of Gillmore Wines in Maule reports that the harvest is going really well so far, with the Semillon, Merlot and Carignan all harvested and the Cabernet Franc and the Italian varieties still to come. “So far, so good”, she says. Austral Chile Vintage Report 2021 Miguel Torres Chile has one of Chile’s most southerly vineyards at 40° south, in the area of Rio Bueno, near to la Unión in the Osorno Valley. Eduardo Jordán reports that with the temperatures here dropping to 0°C, the precipitations of January fell as hail, damaging some clusters. However, the summer has been overall very warm and dry and the vintage looks promising.

Read more at: https://southamericawineguide.com/chile-harvest-report-vintage-2021/

2021 NEW ZEALAND VINTAGE – Smaller harvest and exceptional quality

Although the harvest was smaller than expected, the quality of the 2021 vintage is described as exceptional across all New Zealand wine regions.

370,000 tonnes of grapes were harvested during the 2021 vintage, down 19% compared to last year's harvest. The central regions of the country – including Wairarapa, Marlborough, Nelson and North Canterbury – were worst affected, down more than 20% compared to 2020. However, there was some variability between different parts of the country, with Central Otago being the only region to increase its harvest, up 21% from last year's harvest.

“While the quality is exceptional, the overall smaller harvest means many of our wineries will have to make difficult decisions about which suppliers they can supply to their key markets. There is going to be some tension between supply and demand because of this, with the crop shortfall equivalent to around 7 million 9-litre cases of New Zealand wine,” said Philip Gregan, CEO of New Zealand Winegrowers.

The continued strong export performance reflects the appreciation the world has for New Zealand wine and reinforces the industry's reputation for distinct, premium and sustainable wines.

“It’s encouraging that in these uncertain times, consumers continue to choose a premium product that they know they can trust. The wines of the 2021 vintage promise to be something special, but in some cases the question may simply be whether there are enough to go around.

The smaller harvest is due to cooler spring weather and late frosts in some areas, and comes at a time when the industry is facing rising production costs, with ongoing labor shortages that also add pressure.

Given the impact and challenges associated with Covid-19 over the past year, the New Zealand wine industry is opposing an imminent increase in wine excise which would result in a tax increase on 1 July. One of the main concerns about this increase is the impact it will have on the approximately 300 small wineries that only sell domestically.

“They have already been hit hard by the lack of post-Covid international tourists, the surge in production costs and the difficulties encountered in the hospitality sector. Adding to these tensions with another tax hike doesn’t make sense right now,” Philip said.

BURGUNDY 2021: THE WHITE WINES

There’s no doubt amongst producers – or tasters – that this is an excellent vintage for Chardonnay. Production levels are laughable – with often the lowest yields they’ve ever seen, at a mere 20% of their normal crop – but the quality goes some small way to making up for the loss.

The small crop (reduced by the harsh April frost) had a long season to slowly ripen, developing intense levels of concentration, yet – with cooler conditions than 2018, 2019 or 2020 – retaining amazing freshness and acidity.

With the wet summer, disease was an issue: Erwan Faiveley described oidium as “exploding” on the Chardonnay (with levels not seen since 2004). Extensive sorting was essential. He also felt it was necessary to fine with bentonite after pressing to ensure the must was clean; similarly at Bouchard, Frédéric Weber didn’t use the very first free-run and inoculated fermentations this year to ensure they ran smoothly. Others, such as Philippe Abadie at Alvina Pernot and Paul Pernot, emphasised how important it was not to over-press.

Most wines were chaptalised this year, often just to bring up 0.5%, with the final alcohol levels sitting between 12.5 and 13.5%. 

Guillaume Boillot at Henri Boillot – who has produced a stunning range of wines – describes the whites as “salin”, having “belle matière”. Vibrant and pure, these are tightly wound with cool, white-fleshed fruit character, sometimes with tropical richness, often a mineral, saline thread and piercing acidity.

Due to the tiny volumes produced, oak usage varies this year. Boillot used none, but others have slightly more in the blend – feeling it didn’t need the freshness added by components aged in stainless steel. For Jadot, it was the first year that they used exclusively foudres, the larger barrels reducing the flavour impact of oak on the wine.

Erwan Faiveley believes that tasting the whites, you can feel “the struggle in them”, that the vines suffered. Tasting through the exceptional Grands Crus he’s produced, however, it’s hard to see this – and perhaps he’s biased by the challenges of working the vines and crafting the wines in 2021.

Comparisons are hard for such a unique year, but 2014 and 2017 were common themes, largely due to the high acidity, quality and ageing potential. Philippe Abadie and Alvina Pernot described it as “classic bourguignon”, while Thibault Gagey at Louis Jadot compared the year to 2011 or 2013, although feels the wines are better than those of the latter vintage. Faiveley points to 2007 – a vintage that has never shut down or, for him, disappointed; for Boillot they’re closest to 2016, but more precise. At Bouchard, Weber is so excited by their potential that he plans to keep them in barrel longer – possibly bottling in July 2023.

These are really exciting wines – with a vibrancy and energy that is compelling. The cool and mineral classicism here, with great fruit concentration and balance, should age beautifully.

CHABLIS 2021 / 

The 2021 vintage was difficult everywhere in France, with viticulturalists facing challenging weather throughout the season – but perhaps nowhere was hit quite as hard as Chablis. But the region’s winemakers are no stranger to adversity. What little wine was made is steely and classic in style: Gavin Smith digs into the vintage

In recent years, Chablis has faced hot, dry summers that have challenged the classic, cool, steely, linear-styled Chardonnay for which it’s renowned. But 2021 bucked the trend, with moderate temperatures and plenty of wet weather. The crop was small, but the best wines have laser-like acidity, refreshing mineral salinity and delicate floral tones. 

Following an extremely warm start to the growing season (with almost summer-like 25˚C temperatures in March), budburst was two weeks earlier than normal. A warm early spring, as is more and more commonplace in Chablis’s warming climate, put viticulturalists on high alert. With early budding shoots, frost was a major concern, and it wasn’t long before their worst fears were realised. For 10 days straight in early April, temperatures at night dropped well below freezing. Thanks to a mass of cold air coming down from Northern Europe, temperatures were consistently dropping as low as -8˚C. The real devastation happened on the nights of 6th and 7th April – where rainfall just prior to dusk increased humidity levels, allowing moisture to get inside the buds. The water droplets froze, expanding and effectively exploding the buds, totally destroying them.

At such low temperatures, smudge pots and wind turbines can do little to protect the vines. Between 80 and 90% of Chablis’s first buds were destroyed. Vignerons therefore had to rely on secondary and tertiary buds if they were to produce any wine this year. But producers already knew production would be decimated, since these secondary shoots produce far fewer bunches – typically just a bunch per vine. Barely had the season started and the vignerons were looking at losses of up to 80%.

While the rest of April and May were a quiet time in the vineyards, it was the calm before the storm. Lots of rain and a significant increase in temperature in June saw the canopy expand rapidly. These storms meant vignerons had to be quick to fight the onset of mildew – not so easily managed with so much rain, particularly for organic growers who have to spray the vines after every episode if they were to sufficiently protect them.

The stormy wet weather continued into July and it was viticulturally challenging to keep the vines in a good state. With the wet weather, it was difficult to get tractors into the vineyards to spray; organic producers were further limited by restrictions on copper applications.

August was drier, but – like June and July – remained cold and the grapes only started to go through véraison (changing colour, representing the shift of the vine’s energy to ripening fruit rather than growing leaves and shoots) at the beginning of September. Even then, the ripening of the grapes was very heterogeneous and under-ripeness was starting to be a concern.

As a potential harvest date grew near, another storm arrived, with substantial rainfall on the 17th, 18th and 19th September. Vignerons were forced to gamble, holding off picking until after the storm, despite the substantial threat of botrytis; or to pick before and risk under-ripeness. Most opted for the former, having to wait a few days for the dilution of the grapes that followed the rainstorms to pass before harvesting. It was then a race to get the grapes in before the onset of botrytis. Most started to pick from 20th September onwards.

Vignerons had to identify which vineyards were most at risk and quickly get that fruit in before tackling other sites. Typically, the Grands Crus and Premiers Crus – with their elevation and aeration – were less affected, but no site was without risk.

With such heterogeneous ripening, and the risk of both botrytis and under-ripeness, sorting was essential to produce quality wine in 2021. Any botrytis would make the must prone to oxidation and darken the colour, but most notably diminish the purity and minerality that defines Chablis. Hand-picking, protecting the fruit in small baskets and whole-bunch pressing the grapes were all key to preserving quality.

The style of the vintage is defined by its relative coolness. The wines are taut, with powerful, energising acidity, putting the wines alongside 2011, 2012 and 2014. They aren’t as full as those of 2014 and 2012, yet have similarly vibrant acidity levels.

Unlike the recent warm vintages of 2018, 2019 and 2020; 2021 is not a fruit-driven vintage, but more floral (white flower), herbal (a charming herbaceousness) matched by powerful energy from the acidity. With the cool conditions, warmer Premier and Grand Cru vineyards tended to fare better, with producers suggesting that Les Clos performed particularly well. The sunny site has naturally lower acidity, a rounder texture and huge natural density, playing to the leaner, acid-driven style of the vintage.

Vignerons’ work in the cellar will also play more of a role in the finished wines. Domaine Long-Depaquit, for example, extended the lees contact and carried out more bâtonnage to create more body in the wine, helping better integrate the high acidities.

With yields decimated by as much as 80%, only tiny volumes will be available, and the wines will prove particularly difficult to find after their initial release. Although the vintage was by no means easy, the best wines are classically styled with a backbone of vibrant acidity – offering a distinct change to the solar 2018s, 2019s and 2020s.