Ken Gargett

John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($175) – From its very first release with the 1982 vintage, this has invariably been one of Australia’s great Cabernets and its status seems to soar every year. Forty years later, this wine will only enhance that reputation. Maturation was for seventeen months in a mix of French oak barriques and hogsheads, 43% of which were new. If anyone thought that attempting to follow the amazing 2021 would be a bridge too far, this wine will have confirmed that nothing is impossible. Another stunning effort, which I have actually scored a touch higher than its wonderful predecessor. 

Opaque maroon, there is a refinement and suppleness to this wine, which is all a bit thrilling. There is finesse and immaculate balance. The nose exhibits an array of flavours, black fruits throughout, notably blackberries, with chocolate, tobacco leaves, plum pudding, blueberries, cassis and aniseed. The oak integration is of the highest order and the tannins are simply silk. There is great length here and while the elegance is a highlight, the intensity here never wavers. A brilliant John Riddoch which has at least twenty years ahead of it – even more if you have the patience or are keen to make your grandkids think very highly of you. 98.

Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillion 2015 / This is the top dog from the Brokenwood stable (does one use a stable for dogs?). ILR, released only after a long spell in the cellar, is a tribute to their long term, peripatetic, former chief winemaker, Iain Leslie Riggs. It is whatever is the best wine from any of their vineyards. For the first time, the wine from their Murphy’s Vineyard, planted back in 1966, won the gig. If you are not familiar with that vineyard, it is in the Lovedale sub-region, so not a bad pedigree. Hand-harvesting, the fruit is crushed, chilled and pressed, neutral yeasts, no oak, no malo. Sounds so simple. And if any wine exceeds the vintage in 2015, this is it. There is a fine minerally background with serious length and a persistent finish. Notes of citrus, lemons and limes, pears, crisp green apples and more. Finely balanced, a seductive texture, excellent length and even the emergence of some early complexity. It already has some development, but it has many years ahead. In the year since first tasted, this has already picked up a little and shows every sign of doing so to a greater extent. 95p

Some of the Best Australian New Releases: Cullens – Dancing in the Sun 2024  – As with all Cullens, we see the use of biodynamics in action, although we are told this is the ‘fun and joyful’ side. Who knew biodynamics had a fun and joyful style? This wine is part of quite an extensive array of Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blends offered by Cullens, this one with a dribble of Chenin Blanc and friends as well – 53% Sauvignon Blanc, 28% Semillon, 14% Chenin, 4% Chardonnay and 1% Verdelho. It hails from a trio of their vineyards. 

A pale lemon hue, this has quite an intense nose with herbals to the fore, along with florals, soursop, citrus and touches of lemon curd. Pleasingly powerful aromas. This is balanced and seamless, with the palate beautifully constructed, and a lingering, clean finish. This will excite even more in a year or two and then drink well for the following four years. These Savvy Sem wines from Cullens are anything but your simple, slurpable Savvys blends, and all the better for that. 92. 

Australian newcomers: Mito Savitar Shiraz 2021 / Apparently Savitar is a mythical dragon. Nothing too mythical about the wine, it is real and really good drinking. It spent the best part of two years in a mix of new and older oak, mostly French. Under diam. 

A dark garnet/maroon, this is a wine of concentration, power and intensity. The nose gives us notes of chocolate and mocha with dried herbs, spices and tobacco leaves, as well as some oak which is well integrated. Impressive balance with a supple texture and fine tannins. There is some serious persistence here. Well structured, this is a very fine McLaren Vale Shiraz from a great year. Great stuff. This is going to drink beautifully for at least ten to fifteen years. 95. 

Best new Australian releases: D'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz 2019 / The current release of their flagship red, small batches of grapes were crushed and placed in five tonne headed down open fermenters, which saw foot treading when fermentation was 2/3^rds complete. Basket pressing followed, to a mix of new and older French oak. Excellent pricing for a flagship red of this quality. 

An opaque purple/maroon hue, the nose exhibits notes of chocolate, licorice, bergamot, blackcurrants, coffee grinds, cold tea and beefstock. The oak integration has been handled in the most exemplary manner. This is youthful, rich, powerful and bold with big flavours. Ideal for those who love big, ripe, concentrated wines, even when they are still young. Serious length here, good balance, fresh acidity, firm tannins and intensity which runs for the full length of the wine. This will drink well for the next ten to fifteen years. 95. 

Henriot Blanc des Blancs NV ($) – As it seemingly always is, the Blanc des Blancs is my favourite of the trio of NVs from Henriot. The Chardonnay is all from a variation of twelve crus, with around 40% of the wine coming from their reserves. Time on lees is around five years. The team have recommended that this be enjoyed from a quality Chardonnay glass rather than a typical champagne flute and I could not agree more. Dosage is under seven grams/litre. 

The freshness and focus stand out here. Linear in style, with notes of lemon curd, jasmine flowers, ginger and various stonefruits, it is exuberant and joyful. The champagne has excellent length, fine balance, seabreeze acidity and pinpoint focus. There is some early complexity already evident. Seriously impressive, enjoy this any time over the next decade. 94.

Gundog Estate Hunter’s Shiraz 2021 – To be honest, if anyone mentions Gundog Estate, my thoughts immediately go to fine Semillon, not Shiraz, which is definitely an oversight on my part. Their Shiraz wines are at least as impressive as the Sems, perhaps even more so. This one hails from a pair of low-yielding, old vineyards – Will’s Hill and Tinkler’s. Fermentation is in open top fermenters before maturation for a year in French oak puncheons. Deep red/crimson in colour, the nose is all red fruits, cherries and raspberries, with lifted warm earth notes and hints of animal skins. Notes of coffee grinds and dry herbs emerge on the palate. Impressive stuff, the texture is simply gorgeous, supple and seductive. Tannins are abundant but ever-so-silky. And such length! This is a cracking red, giving pleasure now but which will surely drink superbly for the next ten to fifteen years. 94, but expect that to go even higher with time.

John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 + other Australian new releases – One of our most iconic wines and a world famous Cabernet. It would be most people’s choice as the pinnacle from Coonawarra, every year. First made from the 1982 vintage, early examples from top years like 1982, still drink like a dream. From a stunning vintage like 2021, who knows the lifespan. The wine spent 16 months in a mix of French oak, 48% hogsheads and 52% barriques. 

An inky opaque maroon colour here, the nose gives us chocolate, blackberries, tobacco leaves, soy, licorice, mint, vanilla and dried herbs. This is impressively concentrated and balanced at the same time. The structure exhibits good focus, great length and fine, silky tannins. On the palate we see notes of coffee beans, root vegetables and mocha. This wine has power. It will give pleasure for twenty years, more if you want. 97.