• Country ranking ?

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  • Decanting time

  • When to drink

    from 2020
  • Food Pairing

    Grilled Skirt Steak and Peaches

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eParker: The La Tache 2011, picked on 5 and 6 September at 27.49hl/ha, has a wonderful bouquet that is quintessential La Tache: very complete and harmonious, beautifully delineated, succinct at first then with aeration, blossoming with brambly red berries, apple blossom, minerals and a touch of sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with immense purity and delicacy on the entry. This La Tache is extremely focused, velvety smooth in the mouth and although not as complex as the 2010, it has a beguiling femininity that will seduce at ten paces. It is extremely long in the mouth but politely does not outstay its welcome. Divine. 1,514 cases produced. Drink 2017-2040.

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The Story

Well-cared for vines, strictly controlled yields and as late as possible harvest produces an aromatic and opulent wine. Deeply coloured, La Tâche develops a palate of extraordinary aromas of dark fruits, truffle and spices.

Rich and concentrated, its bouquet releases infinite tones that melt in the mouth to form a lovely ensemble – always exceptional, even in the difficult vintages. Hence in 1950 and 1951, it was the only wine in the domaine that was bottled.

Like many other Burgundy properties, the parcel La Tâche was originally connected to a monastery. It was then owned by two different families, one of which was the Joly de Bévy, who were dispossessed during the Revolution.

Later owned by the Basire and then the Liger-Belair families, the remaining part of La Tâche was purchased by the emblematic Domaine de La Romanée-Conti in 1933, joining the other mythical crus of Grands-Échézeaux, Échézeaux and Richebourg. From this vintage, La Tâche, solely
owned by one single domaine, became a ‘Cru Monopole’.

It is of course rare, producing 20,000 bottles per year, and is highly sought after by wine connoisseurs around the world, particularly in Asia.

La Tâche remains more accessible in price than the iconic cru of the domaine, DRC, yet it is also regarded as an icon with legendary status.

Buying a bottle of La Tâche, even in a lesser vintage, not only provides an extraordinary pleasure when opening the wine, but, if not opened, will give a certain guarantee of a comfortable appreciation in the medium term.


Romanée-Conti lies on brown limestone soils 60 cm deep with a major clay component. Romanée-Saint-Vivant has similar but deeper (90 cm) soils. Higher up, La Romanée occupies a markedly sloping site (12%) and the soil texture is less clayey. La Tâche and La Grande Rue share brown limestone soils, rather shallow at the top end with deeper rendzinas lower down. The same is true for the Richebourg, depending on slope and aspect. The underlying rock is hard Premeaux limestone dating from the Jurassic (175 million years BC).

Lying between Flagey-Échezeaux (home of the ÉCHEZEAUX appellation) and Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vosne-Romanée occupies a middle position in the Côte de Nuits. The vines grow at altitudes of 250 to 310 metres and face east or, in some cases, slightly south of east. Vosne-Romanée, the central jewel in the necklace of appellations which is the burgundian côte, is not content with holding a mere four aces but boasts a total of six Grands Crus, each one famous the world over. A thousand years ago, it was the Cluniac monks of Saint-Vivant de Vergy and the Cistercians of Cîteaux who first realised the value of these very special plots of land.

One of these vineyards takes its name from Prince Conti who lost his heart to it in 1760. Romanée-Conti is one of the wonders ofthe world and has always been a singly-held entity. Next door to it, Romanée-Saint-Vivant recalls the medieval monastery of the Hautes-Côtes which is currently undergoing restoration and which is linked to it by its own path. La Romanée, La Tâche and La Grande Rue are also singly-held entities, as is Richebourg, whose mere name is enough to fill a glass.

These Grands Crus frequently give good results from long laying-down. As a general rule, they shouldn't be drunk under about ten years of age but sometimes they will be aged up to 20 or 30 years. Each appellation has its own distinct personality depending on its year of production and on the stage it has reached in its development. These flamboyant red wines fully express the subtlety and complexity of the Burgundian Pinot Noir grape. Their colour is a dark ruby turning crimson with age. Their wide-ranging bouquet is divided among small red and black fruits, violet, spices and, with time, underbrush. On the palate, this wine is well-defined with a powerful body. It is delicate, sensual, frank and full.

In addition to their powerful structure and exceptional longevity, these great wines develop tertiary aromas of truffle, underbrush, leather and fur. It goes without saying that strong-flavoured meats will do them justice : furred or feathered game, braised, in sauce, or simply grilled. Wild-fowl (eg Peking duck) or a nice cut of roast veal will be gently enveloped by the close-packed but elegant tannins of these mighty Pinot Noir wines.

Serving temperatures : 15 to 16 °C.


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Wine Information

2011 Vintage

2011: "Never more than this year - in spite of the some forty-six harvests I have experienced since my beginnings as a winegrower in Burgundy - have I felt and understood the importance of luck and gamble in the success or the failure in the face of a vintage".

At the time I am beginning to write this traditional report, trying to describe the broad outline of the vintage just after the harvest, the North wind that we had been expecting since May is back, bringing full sun and fresh nights, offering a wonderful end of season, enhancing the autumnal colours of the vineyards and intensifying the scents coming out from the wineries where the wines are fermenting. When today the vigneron awakens in these blessed mornings, he cannot help thinking of what the 2011 harvest would have been if April had not been hotter than July and had not led the vineyards to an ultra-early vegetative cycle in which they were permanently ahead of the seasons.

2011 seems indeed to give credit to those who talk of a climatic change or at least of a climatic disorder.

The vegetative cycle of the vineyards was marked by an outstanding earliness due to very high temperatures in early April. Those unusual temperatures were associated with drought conditions that were also unusual in Spring.

The vineyards like heat and drought. They were prosperous until the flowering, with no attacks from their usual enemies: mildew and oidium - and progressed quickly and harmoniously. There was only one drawback: under the sudden effect of a few very hot days, quite a few berries "roasted" in the sun.

By the very early flowering - the mid-flowering occurred on May 20th, at around the same time as in 2003 or 2007 - we saw a complete change in the weather with dominant winds from the West and South bringing rain and storms. The North wind, which is usually accompanied by beautiful dry weather, was never there, even though it blew on Palm Sunday, April 17th, and, should have been the prevailing wind of the year, if we trust the old saying.

But it is well known that gods do their utmost to deceive us, humans - Homer repeats it throughout the Odyssey - and the vignerons, like poor Ulysses shaken by elements, had to cope with those chaotic conditions that lasted in May, July and August in the form of sudden alternations of cold, rains, heat, sometimes scorching, followed each time by violent storms.

In this general context, the Côte de Nuits was spared. Rains were not as frequent as in the Côte de Beaune. For instance, Nicolas Jacob, our vineyard manager, and his young team managed to protect the vineyards from mildew and oidium all through the Spring without too much difficulty. They did the ploughing and organised all the vineyard works in time, while keeping exclusively to biological treatments. In 2011 especially knowledge, experience and tenacity were put to the test for months in order to win the challenge. 

But the ultimate enemy was on the look-out: botrytis indeed did not take much time to appear. Rains had provoked abnormally big berries and at veraison (which spread out over three weeks) micro-cracks and even bursts had formed in the loose skins.

Fortunately, the low temperatures in July slowed down the vegetative cycle and the development of botrytis. Botrytis indeed likes damp heat, but stops its action as soon as it is cold. This cold phase was favourable as it strengthened and thickened the skins of the grapes.

By August 15th, there was a complete "change of scenery": hot and stormy weather set in with very high temperatures, almost scorching, and the maturation of the grapes accelerated. Thanks to the reserves of water retained in the soil and the luminosity favoured by still-long days, photosynthesis functioned at full blast and the production of sugars increased very quickly while acidities fell, both in a spectacular manner.

The vintage was taking a totally different direction, far more qualitative. This came as a relief to us.

Of course the storms, that regularly accompanied the return of heat, provoked anguish. Some places in Burgundy were hit by murderous hail storms, but the Vosne area was spared. We should have seen a spectacular progression of botrytis, but that did not happen thanks to the thickness of the grape skins and to the quick return of the sun after each storm.

During that time, the Côte de Nuits profited from the heat and was not much affected by storms. By late August, even if a good part of the advance that had been gained in the springtime was lost as the weeks went by in June/July, the grapes were approaching full maturity. The vineyards were reaching the end of their cycle but we were aware that if the storms had kept on coming back after each period of heat, the botrytis might explode and we ran the risk of losing the crop.

Never more than this year - in spite of the some forty-six harvests I have experienced since my beginnings as a winegrower in Burgundy - have I felt and understood the importance of luck and gamble in the success or the failure in the face of a vintage.

Wanting absolutely to wait until the grapes are fully ripe is the first rule. Doing it at the risk of losing the crop is the second one. Both are linked and both played their part to the fullest in 2011. 1) We had to wait beyond reason in order to pick ripe grapes. 2) We were lucky not to have any storms or humidity during the entire harvest, whereas those unfavourable conditions were everywhere around us and could have caused an explosion of botrytis should have they lasted 2 or 3 days more. The gods were at our side again.

We began the harvest in Corton on Friday September 2 and in Vosne-Romanée on September 5th. The weather was hot and dry, but uncertain, and we feared the pessimistic weather forecast for the following days. Thankfully the harvest proceeded from September 5th to 13h without any rain at all during the day.

In early September, the mildew had "bitten" the upper leaves of the vineyards and autumn colours were beginning to appear everywhere. There were also many berries that had roasted in spring, "figgy" berries that we had absolutely to keep for their richness in sugar and also an unusual number of green berries that had not changed colours.

Needless to say how important and difficult the work in the vineyards was this year. The harvester who cut the grapes that went their way to the winery had a major job: like a miner filtering the gravel by the river's edge in the hope of finding gold, he was asked to follow rules that are different every year and pick up the material, i.e. grapes that the fermentation in vats would transform into Romanée-Conti, La Tâche... the gesture of the harvester is the last selective and qualitative human gesture before the grapes go into the vats with their definitive qualities and defaults.

The harvesters were given clear instructions this year: let fall the berries that had roasted in spring, cut with clippers the parts of the grapes that had been affected by botrytis and most important, as it required judgement and experience, leave behind the vines bearing big or unripe berries where botrytis had largely developed. Those vines were harvested in a second passage at the end of the "big harvest".

Of course, the final touch to the sorting was accomplished in the winery where the grapes, before falling into the vats, passed by a team of 14 people assigned to reject what might have been neglected by harvesters. It should be noted that the vibrating table, set this year at the head of the sorting table, eliminated an impressive quantity of ladybugs and larva!

Due to the delicate sorting, the picking was not rapid and lasted until September 13th in hot weather with the threat of storms and rains hanging over us every day like a sword of Damoclès... that never arrived.

That is why I would like to stress again the importance of luck in the success of a vintage. If the grapes had been wet, even if only after one storm, the crop would have been lost in the twinkling of an eye. But on the contrary, the dates we had chosen to harvest were the right ones and we can thank the gods for giving us a mild end of season... and the possibility to harvest perfectly ripened grapes.

We must admit that the reduction of the crop, due to the attacks from the botrytis and other enemies of the vineyards and of the grapes, was significant in 2011, despite the defences we used. It should be around 30%. But this reduction is also a factor of quality. It has to be looked at like the result of a natural thinning: while the yield is reduced, the quality of the grapes is increased. In 2011 we would never have reached full maturity if a part of the crop had not been eliminated by botrytis or "roasting".

It rained more in the Côte de Beaune where the Montrachet was hit by hail in July, but the damage was not too serious. The veraison of the Chardonnay was late and the berries resisted better to the rainy period in early August. The botrytis had less impact than in the Côte de Nuits until September 3rd when a storm in the south of the Côte de Beaune resulted in many berries turning sour. We harvested earlier than expected, on September 6th, and the grapes that we picked were wonderfully golden with a 10% percentage of noble botrytis.

The vineyards were harvested in the following order:

Corton ........................................ September 2
La Tâche ..................................... September 3-5-6
Romanée-Conti et Montrachet ..... September 6
Richebourg .................................. September 7-8
Romanée-St-Vivant ..................... September 8-9
Grands-Echezeaux ....................... September 9-10
Echezeaux ................................... September 10-11

The vinification went without any particular problems. The only necessity was to cool down the grapes that were harvested in the sun and arrived warm at the winery, but of course we have modern methods to control temperatures. Bernard Noblet and his team were constantly on the watch. Their work was not easy: when the harvest takes place in warm conditions indeed, the vats tend to ferment all at the same time and it is essential to guide them on the way and rack off at the right time. Fermentations were especially long: 21 to 24 days with a good increase of temperature.

Devattings have just finished. The wines are full of "fruit". They already show some seduction and deepness, but also a lot of finesse. 2011 should be more in terms of elegance and purity rather than of power, even though it is too early to give a definitive opinion.

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Vintage 2011

Burgundy 2011

'We are beginning to get spoilt with all these fine vintages', said Lalou Bize in October 2011. 'We are very happy with our 2011s.' 'Much better than we had expected,' said Denis Bachelet. 'Lots of colour and fruit, together with good acidity and souplesse.'

Yes. It would appear that Burgundy has done it again. And if views are not quite as enthusiastic in Chablis and in the Côte Chalonnaise, at least in the Côte d'Or (and particularly in the Côte de Nuits) we have another big one to follow 2008, 2009, and 2010. Nature is smiling on the Burgundy lover.

Weather Conditions

Burgundy suffered the worst of its winter as early as the end of November/beginning of December. It was cold and grey, and there was quite a bit of snow. It continued cold but drier in January, but a little warmer in February and March, and then in April, just as in 2007, summer arrived with a bang. In temperatures which climbed into the low 30°s bud break started early and the devemopement of the shoots was rapid. One thing was already clear: barring catastrophe the harvest would be early. This fine weather continued into May.

June was pleasant enough, without being really warm, and July cool and wet. Even August, except for the occasional pair of days, lacked heat until the middle of the month. This came just when it was required, and while there were three days of wet weather just as the harvest was due to start in the Côte d'Or (August 24-26) these were the only periods of anxiety to worry the growers. September continued dry and warm, enabling the Hautes Côtes and other late pickers to finish their collection at their ease.

Of course rarely does a summer season go by without some hail damage somewhere in Burgundy. Rully has received the worst of it this year, being blitzed on the 8th of June, and then, and more seriously, on July 12th. Decimated is frequently an over-exaggerated term, but that is certainly what parts of the vignoble looked like. There were several frost attacks in Chablis in the spring, plus hail damage there too on 29th June, which has affected the size of the harvest in Fourchaume and neighbouring grands crus. Overall, it was wetter in Chablis that in the Côte d'Or – and it seems also to have been drier in the Côte de Nuits than the Côte de Beaune. Both these factors underlie the relative success of these three areas.


The Wine

The white wine crop looks to be healthily-sized; if anything a little more plentiful than the average, growers talking about having produced 45 to 52 hectolitres per hectare in the Côte de Beaune. The fruit was healthy, pHs were around 3.10 - 3.15, and fermentations have been quite rapid. Some suggest slightly lower levels of alcohol than 2009 or 2010. Where red wines of equal reputation are made in the same cellar it seems that there is more satisfaction with the red wine results than with the white.

The red wines are even better in the Côte de Nuits. The crop is not large, there being less juice in the grapes than they promised, but this has led to added concentration. Alcohol levels are at a natural 11.5° - 12.5°, so the wines will not be too heavy. The colours are encouraging and there is plenty of fruit.

We need now (I wrote in November 2011) to wait patiently until the wines are tastable. Someone said to me long ago that you need to hold back and give the wines six weeks after the malos were complete before you can attack them with confidence. Only then, when the CO2 content has sunk to half, can you properly experience the mouth feel, the physical aspect of the wine.

One thing, though, is already clear. Two thousand and eleven Burgundy is a success.


November 2012

Twelve months on, with the wines now well post malo and ready for tasting, what do we make of the 2011s? The whites are following a pattern which seems to have arisen in previous years: very pleasant, reasonably fresh, obligingly fruity, but without real backbone, depth and staying power. Drink them soon. Don't, I suggest, be prepared to spend the high prices today asked for premier cru Puligny unless you have tasted them first and are convinced they will be better in 2020 than 2015. Go for Rully instead.

The reds, lighter than the 2010s and less exotically rich than the 2009s, are delicious. They may not have enormous backbone, but there are many which have a delightful purity of Pinot fruit – and pure Pinot is one of the world's most seductive vinous aromas. They should not take too long to come round. But while delicious then, I do believe they will last, at least in the medium to long term. Yes, at least in red, 2011 is a success.


January 2013

Prices are beginning to be released as I write. The high prices for the 2012s seen at the Hospices auction are bound to have its effect. But this seems to more evident among the already pricey, more fashionable wines and domaines. The polarization between simple (perhaps better rephrased as unpretentions) Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits grand and top premier cru is continuing. Many, particularly the white wine growers, have kept to their 2010 prices. More have raised their demands by five to eight percent, which means that British wine merchants can hold to last years prices, as the rate of exchange has improved. A few are increasing by 15 or even 20 percent as growers view the tiny amounts of 2012 in their cellars.

by Clive Coates MW:

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Tasting note


Transparent and Sophisticated

Written Notes

Ruby red colour with slightly garnet red hue. An extraordinary wine but far too young. Very closed nose, demanding a lot of time for opening up. Later showing aroma reminiscent of flintstone, ripe cherries, hints of blackcurrants and elderberries in the background. Very elegant yet present oak. On the palate excellent length and depth, very promising yet very closed.

  • 98p

Bright, medium red-ruby. Subdued but very pure and nuanced aromas of tangy red fruits, flowers, Oriental spices, licorice and crushed stone, plus an exhilarating hint of peach. Wonderfully suave on entry, then rich, ripe, dry and sharply delineated, showing outstanding refinement and aristocratic reserve to its spicy red and blue fruit flavors. The rising finish goes on and on, with noble tannins thoroughly buffered by fruit. This wine has the early balance to give great pleasure within the next couple of years--or, better yet, lay it down for a decade.

  • 96p

As it was from cask this is more restrained than usual and it requires aggressive swirling to coax the pure and spicy essence of red berry fruit aromas to emerge from the glass where there is a slight hint of herbal tea present. There is a similar reserve to the distinctly focused and linear flavors that enjoy a seemingly unlimited reserve of dry extract that renders the fine-grained and silky tannins almost invisible at present though I suspect that they will become much more apparent once the baby fat melts away. There is superb complexity and fantastic length and this mineral-driven effort should be capable of drinking well after only 12 years or so of bottle age but require a solid 20 before it's completely mature. While La Tâche is almost by definition a superbly elegant wine there is also always an inner core of muscle. In 2011 it seems to have more of the former and a bit less of the latter, indeed this may the first vintage in quite a while where it is ready before the Richebourg

  • 96p

"Only medium depth of crimson. Heady blend of sweetness and density. Candied violets dancing along the top. Lovely sweet palate entry and real life and lift. Dry but not drying finish and such confident structure. Lissom. Very firm finish and wonderfully sappy appetising undertow. Not heavy at all. Sweet then firm. Very pretty indeed. Seductress. Great raciness. 19.5/20 points (02/2014)

  • 98p

The La Tache 2011, picked on 5 and 6 September at 27.49hl/ha, has a wonderful bouquet that is quintessential La Tache: very complete and harmonious, beautifully delineated, succinct at first then with aeration, blossoming with brambly red berries, apple blossom, minerals and a touch of sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with immense purity and delicacy on the entry. This La Tache is extremely focused, velvety smooth in the mouth and although not as complex as the 2010, it has a beguiling femininity that will seduce at ten paces. It is extremely long in the mouth but politely does not outstay its welcome. Divine.

  • 95p
Domaine de la Romanee Conti - La Tache 2011 - I was not surprised that the other guests wanted to drink the La Tache over the Romanee St Vivant also from DRC. I would have much preferred Romanee St Vivant for drinking at this early stage over the La Tache. Nevertheless the La Tache was enjoyable in so far as it gave a snapshot of the future potential that time would reveal for it to fully develop into a wine of grace and complexity. At this age it was oaky, almost sweet but with structure all wrapped in a velvety finish. 96 points
  • 96p
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Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy

Vintage Quality

Above Average

Value For Money


Investment potential

Very Good

Fake factory

Be Cautious

Glass time


Other wines from this producer



Corton Grand Cru


Grands Echézeaux

La Romanée-Conti Grand Cru

Les Gaudichots




Romanée Conti

Romanee Saint Vivant

Vosne Romanée

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault Blochet

Inside Information

La Tache tasting notes by Allen Meadows (October 2003)

2000La Tâche: Quite deeply colored with the classic La Tâche nose of dried rose petals plus a fantastic array of aromas and spices too numerous to even try to describe that lead to fine, detailed and beautifully textured flavors and terrific length. This is not a La Tâche for the ages as it simply doesn’t have the structure and density but it is remarkably complex and has sneaky finishing intensity. I liked this a lot for its superb style, grace and penetrating minerality but those who expect the usual level of power and structure won’t find it in the 2000. This is actually approachable now though it should age for at least a decade, perhaps longer, simply on the incredible balance that it displays. 92/2012-18

1999 La Tâche: Everything that I saw from cask made it into bottle intact and words remain inadequate to describe just how good this wine is. Classic La Tâche in every respect with its incredibly pure, marvelously intense oriental spice box nose, flavors of hoisin and pure pinot extract of indescribable complexity and length. The big tannins are completely wrapped in velvet and the finish simply does not quit. Destined to become one of the all time great vintages of La Tâche. 98/2015-30

1998 La Tâche: (“We are extremely pleased with how this wine has turned out and it should improve for many years to come” – Aubert de Villaine). Stunning nose of red and black fruits, oriental spices, tea and leather notes. Intensely sappy flavor with Burghound.com 127 October 2003 wave after wave of ever changing flavors. The personality here is edgy, cool, confident and pure with the ripe acidity framing the flavors and the finish here is wonderfully focused. 94/2010-18

1997 La Tâche: (“A solid wine in the context of the vintage but it is not a comparative standout” – Aubert de Villaine). Very floral and nicely spicy with elegant, relatively fine flavors that display solid intensity though less body and sappiness than the ’98. There is very good supporting acidity which tends to highlight the lighter but nicely focused, medium weight flavors. A very good rather than great La Tâche. 90/2009-17

1996 La Tâche: (“It’s quite possible that the ’96 will be the longest lived of any La Tâche produced in many years” - Aubert de Villaine). Fantastically pure with the classic spice box, hoisin and soy nose followed by big, rich, very structured flavors that display notes of earth, leather and tea. The tannins are big, ripe and are completely buffered by the sap with length that is simply phenomenal. This remains completely primary in character and seems not to have budged at all since it was bottled. A genuinely great vintage for La Tâche that should improve for another decade and last for 50 years. Very classy juice. 96/2010-20

1995 La Tâche: (“This is in need of at least another 15 years even though it is not particularly structured; be sure to give it plenty of air” - Aubert de Villaine). Stylistically, this borrows elements from both the ’97 and the ’96 as it combines moderate floral notes with most of the spice, soy and hoisin of the ’96 plus the densest flavors of any vintage to this point. The mid- palate doesn’t have quite the same sap of the ’96 and the long, dusty finish offers a hint of chocolate. This too has the potential to be very long lived. 93/2010-20

1994 La Tâche: Aromatically ripe with hints of the classic La Tâche nose but there are also hints of under ripe fruit. The flavors coat the mouth and they are still quite firm and youthful but the back end displays more than a trace of astringency and a healthy dose of austerity. Perfectly good for the vintage but not exceptional. 88/2006-14 (As noted in Issues 4 and 7, I have experienced a fair amount of bottle variation with the ’93).

1993 La Tâche: (“Severe, closed and understated but I am convinced it will be a great La Tâche” - Aubert de Villaine). This too evidences a slight floral quality, and a fascinating mix of earth, leather, tea and spice notes plus an interesting green bark component. The slightly austere, tannic, wonderfully rich flavors are dense, in fact extremely dense with excellent depth and terrific complexity and a finish that seems to go on forever. Though there are now hints of secondary aromas, this remains very young, structured and remarkably intense. When you get the right bottle, the ‘93 can be a real stunner. 95/2008-15

1992 La Tâche: When first opened, the nose is quite floral with a curious geranium component but with air, the aromas evolve toward spice and dried rose petal notes followed by medium weight, rich, nicely sappy flavors of good if not great elegance and length. Really very pretty and very fine in the context of the vintage. 89/now

1991 La Tâche: (“A great wine and it may eventually equal the 1990” - Aubert de Villaine). I have long been an admirer of this wine as it is dazzlingly elegant and very densely fruited with knock out aromas of spice, dried rose petals, clove, anise and black pepper followed by somewhat austere, rich, concentrated and gorgeously persistent flavors. The intensity here is really something to see and it just oozes class and refinement. 96/2007-16

1990 La Tâche: (“A great vintage for La Tâche but several others are its equal, including 1991 and 1999” – Aubert de Villaine). Stunning, massive, full-on, classic La Tâche nose that displays almost unbelievable complexity with so many different elements that it is impossible to even begin to describe them all; the primary components include ethereal and still fresh pinot fruit, clove, knock out spiciness, anise, hoisin, soy and a trace of earth but these elements only hint at the sheer depth. The flavors are big, rich, refined, classy, penetrating and superbly powerful yet everything is in perfect balance and there is more than sufficient sève to balance off the still considerable tannins. The finish is intense, pure and so long that it is haunting; I can literally still taste this wine for days after I’ve had it because it has such a dramatic and emotional impact. This is one of the finest, perhaps even the finest young Burgundy I have ever been privileged to try and it only seems to get better with each passing year. In short, this is absolutely brilliant. 99/2010-30

1989 La Tâche: (“This seems to be stuck in a time capsule as it does not appear to be aging – it clearly needs much more time” - Aubert de Villaine). I completely agree with M. de Villaine’s comments as the ’89 really has not perceptibly budged in the last 5 years as it remains completely primary and while all of the classic La Tâche spice aromas are there, the complexity and depth that most vintages display by age 13 are not yet present. That said, the potential is clearly here as there is real concentration to the very fresh flavors supported by a solidly tannic backbone. One reason I’m persuaded that this will ultimately mature into a fine example in that the finish is extremely complex and long and thus the aromatics should eventually follow. 91/2007-15 This trio was tasted in February, 2003. Burghound.com 128 October 2003

1988 La Tâche: (“A very powerful vintage and still improving and even though this is not too far away from its peak, it should hold for many years” - Aubert de Villaine). Somewhat subdued and reserved on the nose with the classic nose of Asian spices, hoisin, soy and a trace of oak followed by sweet, long, structured and beautifully complex flavors. There is fine length here and the power is impressive. This is still a bit tight but this is finally beginning to unwind. I would give this another 5 to 7 years in the cellar and drink over the next 10 to 15 years. 93/2008-20

1987 La Tâche: This clearly retains its essential La Tâche character as there is lovely spice and surprisingly good volume for the vintage but the austere tannic structure is beginning to dominate and it’s hard to see this ever harmonizing completely. While cellaring the wine further will likely soften the structure, I fear that the fruit will have faded before this occurs. As such, I would be inclined to drink this sooner than later though there is no rush. 87/now to 2012

1986 La Tâche: A wonderfully elegant and pretty nose with fully mature, elegant, fine, ultra spicy aromas framed by the barest hint of sous bois leading to medium weight, relatively fine flavors and a long but fairly tannic finish. This resembles the ’87 in the sense that time will eventually resolve the tannic structure but it’s hard to see the nose ever improving from here. This is an undeniable success for a difficult vintage. 89/now to 2007 (I have had the opportunity of tasting the ’85 on more than a dozen occasions, including large format bottles and I have frankly never understood its acclaim. To be sure, it’s a perfectly good La Tâche but when I see the eye-popping prices that it routinely brings at auction, I personally find this nothing short of remarkable as there are clearly better vintages available for substantially less. In fact, Aubert de Villaine has more than once expressed his mystification to me regarding the near mythic popularity of the ’85 as well).

1985 La Tâche: (“A vintage of pleasure but it offers less class and nobility than the best vintages; completely ready to drink” – Aubert de Villaine). As I noted above in my comments, the ’85 is a fine La Tâche but well short of profound with lovely spice but completely mature aromas and nicely complex, full resolved flavors and a long, fine and pure finish. There is no benefit to holding the ‘85 further and even from magnum format, I would be inclined to begin looking for occasions to enjoy it; to be clear, it’s not in decline but it is as good as it’s ever going to be. 90/now to 2010 (The 1980 and 1981 were tasted in May, 2003 and both showed exceptionally well).

1981 La Tâche: Classic La Tâche nose of Asian spice and dried rose petals followed by medium weight, beautifully complex flavors of excellent depth and fine length. While this is by no means a great example, it is as good a 1981 as I've had in a long time and drinking perfectly now though certainly capable of holding if not improving. 91/now Note: I've experienced some bottle variation that may or may not have been due to storage.

1980 La Tâche: This leaps from the glass with soaring and ultra elegant, superbly spicy, completely mature aromas followed by medium weight, rich, detailed, wonderfully complex flavors and a finish that displays earth and a touch of the animale. This has begun to lighten now but it remains a wine of exquisite subtlety that is almost ethereal in its purity. By no means a wine of power but I find this to be a real stunner with one of the two or three best noses in this entire range of vintages. Completely ready to drink though it’s holding well. This strongly vies for wine-of-the-vintage honors. 94/now The ’78 is another vintage of La Tâche that I have had the pleasure of watching evolve for quite a number of years. It has reached a point in its evolution that quality storage has become paramount because less than pristine bottles are marred by excessive sous bois notes.

1978 La Tâche: (“1978 is a great vintage and very rich; perfect now”. Aubert de Villaine. Meadows: 1978 was marked by a miserable growing season and it wasn’t until the last 3 weeks before the harvest where very hot weather set in and essentially saved the vintage. The Domaine did not begin picking until October 16, an incredibly late date by today’s standards, when it is rare to see anyone picking in October. 1978 is incontrovertibly the greatest vintage up to 1993, easily surpassing 1985, 1988 and 1989 and edging out 1990. Whether 1993 will eventually be its equal still remains to be seen.). Strong hoisin, soy and Asian spice notes but this is finally beginning to thin just a bit after a long run of drinking perfectly. The flavors remain the concentrated, sweet, very rich essence of mature burg with superb length and quality depth though it no longer possesses the detail and finesse it once did. This is still a wonderful wine but it has seen its best days as the alcohol is now showing strongly and it should be drunk over the next 5 years. 92/now to 2007 or so

1971 La Tâche: (“This vintage produced the highest sugars I have ever seen; the ’71 is a very powerful wine though not necessarily the best balanced. I particularly like the combination of power and finesse and it’s ready now” - Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: 1971 produced a great many extremely rich and ripe wines of excellent concentration because there was so much millerandage, or very small berries that deliver a very high proportion of dry extract relative to the amount of juice. The crop in general was very small and the Domaine began harvesting on September 27. There was a good deal of hail though interestingly, the La Tâche seems to show almost no effect whereas the Romanée-Conti is clearly marked by it.). Compared to two prior bottles tasted in the last 12 months, this was positively explosive and delivered everything one would reasonably Burghound.com 129 October 2003 
expect and more from a great, fully mature Burgundy. Classic and very ripe old burg fruit intermingles with a wonderful array of spices, especially anise and soy all framed by a touch of caramel. The flavors are extremely rich, sweet and wonderfully concentrated with a deep, very sweet essence of pinot finish that still retains glimpses of its former power. The tannins are fully resolved and the finish is nothing but pure silk and velvet. Prior bottles have been in the 92 to 94 point range. This bottle: 95/now to 2010

1969 La Tâche: (“Our ’69s were extremely seductive when young and retained this characteristic for the first 15 years or so of their lives as they were blessed with very ripe and clean flavors and supple tannins. However, they were never meant for a long life and should be drunk up as they perhaps lack a bit of acidity.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: I have always liked the ‘69s, finding them for years to be almost as good as the ‘66s as well as being a first class terroir vintage as the wines were always beautifully transparent. Interestingly, the vintage as a whole was noted for its acidity while the Domaine’s wines do seem to be a good deal less vibrant than many of the best wines of the vintage. In short, a fine vintage in general but not a great one for the Domaine. As an aside, 1969 is in my view the decisive vintage for Burgundy in terms of it once and for all breaking free of the English wine trade’s insistence on linking the quality of Bordeaux and Burgundy as the ’69 Bordeaux were incontestably boring). The classic La Tâche nose remains intact with sweet Asian spices and plenty of secondary development and rich, medium weight flavors that are beginning to lean out and the finish is now displaying some edgy acidity poking through. The tannins are largely resolved but again, they come up on the finish and the sweetness is not quite enough to completely buffer them. In short, this is good but no longer exceptional and unless you have bottles that have been stored under near glacial conditions, the time has come to drink up. 89/now

1966 La Tâche: (“We had excellent harvest conditions, beginning on October 5th with a perfectly clean crop and good quantity. In short, it was perfect in every way and we did virtually no triage (sorting) work. Here at the Domaine, we produced very powerful wines and the wines are blessed with good acidity and they’re not lacy but rather solid and dense. While the ’66 La Tâche is drinking well now, it will continue to hold.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: Despite the fact that this was a tough growing season, 1966 is generally the third best vintage of the decade behind 1962 and 1964 but ahead of

1969; that said, for the Domaine itself, the ‘66s are perhaps a touch better than the ‘64s but clearly behind the ‘62s. The aspect of the ‘66s that I admire the most is the richness and in my view, the ‘66s were not surpassed at DRC until the ‘78s. Most ‘66s are tiring and it is only the very best wines, stored in impeccable conditions, that still convey the true quality of the vintage). Some bricking though the center is still ruby. The wonderfully elegant nose is still quite fresh with some remaining vestiges of primary fruit though it has now largely passed into secondary aromas trimmed in the classic La Tâche spice and plenty of anise, clove and hoisin notes. The rich, full-bodied, beautifully detailed flavors display a slight edginess to them as there are the beginning traces of acidity poking through on the snappy finish. To be sure, there is plenty of richness and velvet to buffer most of the acidity but it may not for very much longer. Still, a real beauty of a wine and one that is perhaps slightly more reserved than many vintages. 92/now

1964 La Tâche: (“1964 was a big harvest that was very ripe and like ’66, we had excellent harvest conditions, which began on October 4th. Our wines are still drinking well and there is no rush to finish them. They were wonderful young with plenty of finesse yet good body and a lovely tenderness to them. I am completely enamored of our ‘64s.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: I would echo the comments of M. de Villaine as ’64 has always been a very rich vintage, for both reds and whites, that for years lived in the shadows of the reputation of a rainy and iffy ’64 Bordeaux vintage. The Domaine made excellent ‘64s though again, they are as a group behind the superb ‘62s and very fine ‘66s. Indeed, a recent head to head tasting of the ’64 and ’62 Richebourg clearly favored the ’62). Remarkably, this was still tight and backward aromatically though with air, the hallmark La Tâche spiciness began to emerge along with simply a superb range of complex aromas that are still quite fresh; indeed, it was akin to an aromatic fireworks show that rivals the ’59 and ’62 for best in the tasting. Likewise, the flavors were somewhat narrow at first but when they finally got rolling, the richness and depth were incredible and while this remains a structured wine, there are no hard edges. The finish is full, sweet and incredibly long and this is holding well. A flat out terrific performance. 97/now but be sure to give it air

1962 La Tâche : (“The ’62 is a point of reference for me a nd one of the greatest examples of La Tâche ever in my experience. The essential character of the wine is clearly one of discretion but it is, in my view, a simply brilliant example and one that is for me truly a measure by which all other vintages of La Tâche will be judged. The ’99 may very well surpass it but that remains to be seen.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: Though it required over 30 years before collectors finally caught on, 1962 has clearly emerged as the finest vintage of the decade, edging out 1964 and 1966. Interestingly, 1962 was not particularly well regarded for many years and even an average plus vintage like 1961 was regarded more highly. The growing season was cool until August and it rained in September, which further delayed the harvest. The general ban de vendange was declared on October 8th but the Domaine did not begin its harvest until the 15th. As to the Domaine, 1962 is indeed one of the greatest vintages of this storied place though it perhaps has never received the acclaim of certain others, probably because it is not a powerful, rich and massive vintage but rather one of delicatesse and understatement yet the purity of expression is almost unrivaled. A recent bottle of the ’62 Richebourg was simply magnificent). Even better than the bottle I had at the April, 2002 Acker tasting and words simply cannot express the astonishing aromatic complexity and for me this is the most complex nose of any vintage reviewed here. Much like the ’71, the flavors no longer have the sap and power they once did but the purity and detail are mind boggling. Silky, refined and altogether classy with a finish that goes on and on. This is a wine of drama and emotion - in short, quintessential La Tâche that is knee-bending in its brilliance and while there is no reason to wait, it appears to have the stamina to last for another decade at this level. In short, this is a genuinely complete wine of absolute genius. 99/now to 2010

1961 La Tâche: (“In 1961 we bottled barrel by barrel and there was still quite a bit of gas in the wines. Also, not all of the lees were clean near the bottom and thus we’ve experienced more bottle variation than we’re happy about. However, good bottles are very impressive if not quite so good as the ‘62s.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: The ’61 red Burgundy vintage was for many years quite highly regarded though I suspect that this had more to do with the stellar reputation of their Bordeaux brethren than the wines themselves. Yields were low, lower than ’62 or ’64 and slightly lower than ’69. To be sure, the wines were quite good through the 1970s and most of the 1980s but I have never thought the vintage was much above average. Today however, most of the ‘61s are tiring. The Domaine, which began the harvest on October 7th, made fine ‘61s and in my experience, the La Tâche was the best of the range, easily surpassing a good but not better Romanée-Conti. In fact, a recent bottle of La Tâche was simply spectacular, holding its own if not surpassing a perfect bottle of the ’43). The bottle at the tasting was lovely but tiring and took over 90 minutes to really begin to open. Another bottle tasted in May, 2003 was much better with the following note: A simply stunning nose of sheer elegance and incredible breed with all of the spice, hoisin, soy, dried rose petal and sweet earth notes imaginable followed by rich, full, wonderfully complex flavors that dance across the palate, ending in superb length. The only nit is that it is starting to thin out now on the backend, revealing a touch of acidity. Otherwise, this is a brilliant example for the vintage and it towers over the Romanée-Conti, also recently tasted at the Domaine. While it is certainly holding well and will continue to do so, there is no advantage to holding this further. By far the best example I have ever had of this wine. 94/now

1959 La Tâche: (“1959 was a big harvest with an extremely ripe, very mature crop that we brought in earlier than was usual in that era, which is to say September 25th. Our wines drank well for the first 20 years of their lives but now they should be drunk. The vintage reminds me a lot of 1990.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: I have always loved the ‘59s and it was one of the vintages that so seduced me to the charms of Burgundy when I took my first tentative steps down the road that leads to Burgundy in the 1970s. Though ’59 is not the greatest of post-war vintages, it is one of the very top as the wines are complete, rich, intense and possess truly extraordinary depth and power and remarkably enough, the best ’59s are still going strong. In short, 1959 would make my list as one of the top 10 vintages of the century. The ’59 La Tâche has always been a relatively tannic and robust wine though the last bottle that I had some years ago was drinking well). Relatively discreet and understated yet fantastically complex nose of fully mature and secondary fruit aromas liberally laced with caramel, earth and the classic La Tâche oriental spice notes that merge seamlessly into incredibly rich, dense and pure flavors of stunning depth and length and the only, extremely minor nit is a touch of alcoholic warmth on the finish. Otherwise, this is flawless and drinking perfectly with nothing but sheer silk and velvet in the mouth. A brilliant effort that is as good as it’s ever going to be. I would be inclined to find a reason to drink up sooner than later. 96/now to 2010

1955 La Tâche: (“The ‘55s were perfectly good wines at the Domaine if not really distinguished. There was an Indian summer with a medium size crop and we began harvesting on the 14th of October.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: The 1955 vintage was average at best and I have had relatively few standouts with the exception of a few of the Leroy wines, in particular the Chambertin. Most ‘55s today are showing somewhat roasted and stewed notes and should be approached with caution. I have no recent experience with the ’55 La Tâche though a bottle in the late 1980s was quite good if not better). Heavy bricking with no ruby left. This was quite funky at first but with extended air, it eventually revealed aromas of anise, spice, clove and the barest trace of sous bois and earth notes, leading to rich, still nicely intense flavors that finish with a mouth coating texture of pure velvet. While the richness is admirable, the freshness is now gone and if it is held much longer, the wine will undoubtedly devolve into entirely tertiary aromas and flavors. Drink up. 90/now

1952 La Tâche: (“1952 was a very good year. We began the harvest on September 29th, bringing in a ripe and clean crop. I have always liked the purity of the La Tâche though I have not tasted it in a long time.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: 1952 is a mixed vintage as I’ve had some spectacular wines though most now are tiring, which is no surprise after fully 50 years. It is a very tannic vintage and in certain respects, resembles the ’52 Bordeaux in style. My most recent experience with a ‘52 from DRC was a bottle of Richebourg, tasted in 2001 at the Domaine itself, which was holding well with plenty of life left). Quite brown with no trace of ruby or even orange left with really pungent volatile acidity. This is clearly not what it should have been and I have no other recent experience. Not Rated 1949 La Tâche: (“1949 was closed for years and years and even a bottle tasted in 1972 was still closed. However, once it opened it showed just how magnificent it is and it is undoubtedly one of the finest vintages we at the Domaine have ever produced. The wines are still solid and spicy yet with real breed and class.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: 1949 is for me the greatest post-war vintage of all, combining perfect balance, elegance, transparency, power and richness in the way that only great Burgundy can. The malos were extremely long for the extremely small crop and while some prefer the incredible richness of ’47 or the power of ’45, for this observer, the ‘49s are what great Burgundy is all about. No recent notes on any of the Domaine’s wines but in the ‘80s, I had several bottles that are among the greatest wines I have ever tasted). The first bottle opened had a very low fill and not surprisingly was quite oxidized – essentially dead on arrival. Our host graciously consented to open a second and it too show some oxidative notes but not to the point where it completely dominated the nose as there was enough complexity to be enjoyable because of the sheer richness on the palate. The round, supple, still nicely powerful flavors were extraordinarily rich with terrific depth though showing some signs of surmaturité and a lack of vibrancy. This bottle may very have had storage issues and based on prior bottles of the ‘49 (see my comment above), it wouldn’t surprise me. 88/now

1947 La Tâche: (“The 1947 harvest was extremely hot and since we did not have any effective ways of cooling the musts, the fermentations happened quickly. Interestingly, despite the extremely warm harvest, the wines have breed and class and are not over ripe. They are however ready and storage is extremely important because otherwise the ‘47s are tired.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: 1947 is the greatest year since 1929 in my view, surpassing ’34, ’37 and ’45 though few ‘47s have held up as well as any of these vintages as it wasn’t not nearly as tannic. The crop was extremely clean and for this era, the harvest began in mid-September, which is incredibly early. Still, the vinification presented some problems and while the heights of the vintage are as good as ’45 or ’49, it is less consistent. No recent notes on any of the Domaine’s wines though a bottle of ’47 La Tâche drunk in the late 1980s was still alive and well and most impressive). Moderate bricking but not yet completely to the center. As one would expect, the nose is extremely ripe with hints of volatile acidity though not so much as to be off putting yet there is something less than completely clean here. The flavors however are sweet, velvety, wonderfully rich with surprising vibrancy and length. This is delicious and is now moving into that essence of pinot phase that older burgundy sometimes does. Still, the wine’s power suggests that it is not yet ready to go gracefully into that vinous good night and if well stored, I would expect bottles to continue to show well. That said, there is clearly no reason to wait. 89/now

1945 La Tâche: (“It’s generally not appreciated but there was hail damage but even so, we had an exceptionally good, extremely small harvest because of the frost during floraison. We made extremely good wines but I don’t believe they are truly great and most of them are tiring now.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: One of the greatest of the post war vintages and certainly one of the longest lived. It was the last year for Romanée-Conti on the old pre-phylloxera vines as they were grubbed up after the harvest. I have had any number of fine old ‘45s though many of them today are still tannic but have lost the freshness of their fruit and most have, not surprisingly, become entirely secondary and tertiary in character. The ’45 La Tâche though has an immense reputation, second only to the incredibly rare and legendary ’45 Romanée-Conti). Bricked all the way to the center with some brownish tint creeping in. The nose here is extremely advanced with pronounced tertiary aromas that hint at the spice that was once there, all liberally laced with strong earth notes and noticeable VA (volatile acidity). Happily though, the flavors are still remarkably pure and seriously complex with a spicy, velvety, moderately tannic finish. On the palate, this is still a gorgeous wine but one that is clearly in decline and I can’t see any reason to delay drinking it sooner than later. 94/now

1943 La Tâche: (“I love the ’43s and especially La Tâche. It was a true war time vintage with almost no intervention of any kind; there was no sugar for chaptalization or anything else for work in the vineyards. The best examples of the vintage are pure and fine and well stored bottles are great. I would call the ’43 La Tâche a serene wine.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: 1943 is one of those surprising vintages in that nothing went particularly well during the growing season with frost in the spring and hail in July yet I have tasted a number of solid wines, including a sensational bottle or two of the ’43 La Tâche. It is clearly the best of the war time vintages, not including of course ’45 which everyone considers to be a “vintage of the peace”. I’ve tasted the ’43 La Tâche twice in the last month, when it’s from good storage is nothing short of phenomenal; a bottle of ’43 Richebourg, also tasted last month, was classy and pure but tiring). Simply mind boggling complexity and I feel almost silly trying to describe the sheer breadth of spice aromas, nuanced dried flower notes and sweet incense hints all framed in anise and earth. The full-bodied, velvety, indeed silky flavors are deep, rich and incredibly complex and offer superb mouth coating sap and stupendous length. This took every bit of 30 minutes to open but once it finally got going, it just kept expanding and growing and while this does not have the power of the '45, it is an extremely impressive effort, especially for the vintage. 95/now

1942 La Tâche: (“1942 was a perfectly good if not exceptional vintage for the Domaine and again, there was no intervention of any kind. We harvested relatively late, which enable us to harvest grapes with sufficiently high sugars to make quality wine but this was not the case everywhere.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: I’ve had some very good bottles of the ’42, the last as recently as last month but even at its best, it’s not as good as the ’43. The harvest started early, in fact on the 13th of September but the grapes were under ripe and it was only the few growers like DRC who waited that made anything of real interest. The vintage might have been better regarded had there been sugar to chaptalize it but alas, there wasn’t). While still very pretty and beautifully complex on the nose, this particular bottle wasn't especially fresh and the flavors, while again intact with no sous bois in evidence, were rich but a bit tired. I've had better bottles and they range from 87-90 points; all are drinking perfectly now. 89/now

1937 La Tâche: (“1937 is a very concentrated vintage, certainly more so than any of the other vintages of the 1930s, including 1934. At the Domaine, I view our ‘37s as some of the finest we have ever made because even though there is great richness, it is complemented by excellent spice and a seductive delicatesse.” Meadows: 1937 produced some incredible wines and remarkably enough 65 years later, wines that are still youthful and quite tannic. They were closed for decades though seemed to begin opening up in the 1980s, an incredible 50 years later. As a vintage, ’34 is better regarded but at the Domaine itself, it appears that ’37 gets the nod with ’37 being more backward, concentrated and tannic whereas ’34 created more elegant, purer yet lighter wines). This bottle, most unfortunately, was oxidized beyond recognition and was completely undrinkable. Not rated.

1929 Les Gaudichots: (“1929 is a sublime vintage and along with 1999, is perhaps the greatest vintage we have ever made. If the wines have been well stored, they are still young and should continue to last for years.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: 1929 is undoubtedly one of the century’s greatest vintages, ranking toe-to-toe with 1915, 1923, 1949 and 1959 though at this level of perfection, it seems a bit silly to try and rank one vintage over another. As an side, it was the second in a series of good to great vintages ending in the number 9 and only 1909 and 1939 being true disappointments. The genius of ’29 is its ability to combine a forward and generous nature with elegance, purity, concentrated flavors that have more than withstood the test of time. An all time classic vintage). Heavy bricking but still ruby in the center. This began with a slightly funky nose that eventually blew off to reveal wonderfully expressive, rich, almost liqueur-like aromas with evident spice nuances on the now almost completely tertiary aromas. Despite the well-matured nature of the aromatics, the nose is not tired or fading but rather quite vibrant and virile, indeed somewhat reminiscent of an octogenarian distance runner that never seems to tire. The rich, velvety, silky flavors are lacy and detailed with a fascinating blend of complexity and power plus plenty of old vine sap on the terrifically long back end. This would have been one of the show stoppers of the night had it not been paired with the equally amazing ’23. This is still a gem and holding perfectly; in short, there is no rush. 95/now

1923 La Tâche: (Nicolas bottling). (“The 1923 vintage continues to amaze me as it doesn’t ever seem to change and thus it may live forever. I’m kidding in a sense but the wine has been like this since the day that I met it and the best way I can describe it is to say that it is not a young wine but neither is it an old wine. It’s truly an exceptionally good vintage for us.” Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: Many old Burgundians still talk about the 1923 vintage as one of the top two or three vintages of the century. It was one of the smallest harvests in the history of the Côte d’Or with a very cold and wet spring followed by a hot and dry summer. The crop was small but extremely clean and very ripe with incredible concentration and plenty of buffering sap. I have had only one other ’23 from the Domaine, the Romanée-Conti, which I had in May along side the 1921. It was spectacular and still youthful though I had the barest of preference for the ’21). Much like the ’23 Romanée-Conti tasted earlier this year, this is amazingly youthful with some bricking but still plenty of deep ruby in the middle. Cola, Asian spices, earth, anise, hoisin, clove, cinnamon stick and some secondary fruit notes that are extremely ripe and rich lead to big, powerful, fantastically deep flavors blessed with buckets of sap. There is the barest hint of acidity and still some firm tannins on the finish but the sheer elegance and impeccable balance make this an extraordinary wine. This is still on cruise control and while it will not improve from here, which is itself an amazing statement for an 80 year old wine, there is certainly no rush to drink up. In short, a pure and incontestably pristine example of greatness. 97/now

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