BORDEAUX 2018: AN EXCEPTIONAL VINTAGE by James Suckling
After two weeks in Bordeaux tasting more than 1,100 wines from the 2018 vintage, visiting 67 châteaux and interacting with hundreds of winemakers and growers, I can tell you that 2018 is an exceptional year for Bordeaux wines.
This is a unique vintage for Bordeaux not only because of its hellish grape growing season, but also because it created wonderful wines with beautiful depth o...
Report and recommendations for the 2018 Bordeaux vintage
by Andrew Caillard MW
2018 is an exceptional year. Bordeaux whites and Sauternes are very good, but from an Australian perspective, the excitement is all in the red wines. All sub-regions produced examples of very good wines, but some performed better than others. Generally, the largest estates have made exemplary wines illustrating that the human factor and wealth can have a major impact on the terroir! Over the past few weeks I have tasted around 350-400 wines, sometimes in large format forums like UCG tastings or at various châteaux. These days it is difficult to taste wines blind, but color density, aromatic freshness, tannin density and overall balance are obvious indicators. In some cases, I tasted wines a few times, which allowed me to cross references.
The weather until a few days ago was clear with bright sunshine, warm days and a cool breeze. Temperatures have dropped now with more cloud cover and intermittent rain. Driving from Sauternes to St Emilion we passed through some light hail but not enough to cause too many problems. In two weeks, we saw dormant vines and trees come to life. The growing season starts a little early and, of course, people worry about the chance of frost. After the devastating frost episodes of 2017 and the challenges created by hail and mildew in 2018, there is a feeling that climate change could well have an unpredictable impact on future Bordeaux vintages.
We have tasted a good amount of primeur wines now. As usual the vintage will be exaggerated. The growing season was almost calamitous, but long hours of hot sunshine over the summer cleaned everything up and allowed the grapes to ripen very, very well. The colors, flavors, density and acidities are truly impressive and as a result the vintage is generally quite exceptional. It's difficult to truly understand overall crop losses, as growers are naturally quite cagey. But they vary from almost nothing to less than a third. At Ch Climens in Sauternes Barsac, I estimate that the harvest is around 20% of the average. When we know that this area lost its entire harvest in 2017 due to frost, the shock must be keenly felt. Mother Nature has been particularly cruel lately. The growing season story will inevitably create a negative impression, but few people will remember the details in years to come. They will only remember the wine. For some people with long memories, they believe the vintage is like 1947 or 1961. If so, it's not just an exceptional vintage, it's something beyond the norm. An immortal year. The concentration, weight and vitality of the wines are impressive. Despite the incredible density of tannins, saturated colors and flavors, the wines are actually quite easy to taste, indicating remarkable balance and life.
In my opinion, the strongest sub-regions are Pauillac and St Julien – both of which have produced wines of great consistency and classicism. They are powerfully expressive with pronounced ripe tannins and pure fruit flavors. The combination of better microclimatic conditions, wealth and physical resources contributed to the result. Ch Pontet Canet is an exception because of its approach to biodynamic viticulture. It suffered terribly from downy mildew and only produced a third of the harvest. The wine is distinctly different from wines like Ch Latour or Ch Pichon Lalande, but its overall buoyancy and fruit richness are convincing. It also represents something worthwhile and important.
I still think Pauilac is the benchmark for Bordeaux. Typically, the wines are extremely expressive with aromas of pure cedar and fine grainy tannins. This year, the wines are particularly dense and inky with abundant graphite tannins. They are not at all tense or soft and so when the tannins settle in, the wines will be exceptional.
There are many exceptional wines from Pauillac, including Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Ch Pichon Longueville Baron, Ch Lynch Bages, Ch Batailley, Ch d’Armailhac and Ch Grand Puy Lacoste. The premier crus Ch Latour, Ch Mouton Rothschild and Ch Lafite Rothschild are very impressive. Their second wines Les Forts de Latour, Petit Mouton and Carruades are also of very high quality.
The 2018 vintage was unanimously greeted with satisfaction from the north of Burgundy to the south. The exceptional weather, especially during the harvest period, made it possible to obtain grapes in perfect health, allowing harvesting for almost an entire month. The first tastings before the Hospices de Beaune wine auction gave a first idea that 2018 will be a truly great year.
The vines had accumulated some reserves over the winter thanks to very rainy weather, and the growth cycle started late. When the sun began to appear in April, the vines came to life, with very rapid buds. The mild weather then allowed the plants to make up for lost time, even ahead of the average. The April frosts shook the entire region, but the damage remained very limited. Flowering and fruit set took place without hindrance.
The summer was marked by constant heat and drought, with the exception of a few hailstorms in early July which had no major consequences. The vines continued to grow at a rapid pace until mid-August. Veraison took a little longer in places, with the heat and lack of water affecting some younger vineyards. Nevertheless, the water reserves having been replenished during the winter, most of the vines reached maturity thanks to the ideal climatic conditions.
The first grapes were picked in the last 10 days of August. Since flowering dates, precipitation and temperature varied greatly from one region to another, the harvest extended until the last 10 days of September.
The fruit was in very good health, and the weather was perfect, allowing each winemaker to harvest at the optimal time. The atmosphere was serene throughout the wine region, with producers appreciating this magnificent vintage combining quality and quantity. Many believe this will be one of the best vintages in many years.
The vinification of the whites took place without problems, the grapes having retained a good level of acidity despite the heat.
The reds required a little more attention during winemaking due to the relatively high potential alcohol level.
Red wines
The 2018 reds have an attractive intense color. They are already well structured and powerful, with well-integrated tannins and a good concentration of fruit. These exceptional wines are perfectly balanced, and already taste good in their early youth.
This is a delicious vintage with splendid maturity.
Crémant de Bourgogne
It is a benchmark year, with expressive aromas that vary from one grape variety to another, promising balanced and aromatic base wines. Pinot Noirs are generous, with notes of cherry and rose, resulting in balanced wines with pleasant freshness. Chardonnays are powerful, with moderate acidity, which makes them very round. The fruit aromas reveal exotic notes, nuanced by scents of apple and peach. Gamays have delicate aromas of raspberry and strawberry, highlighted by touches of citrus (clementine, lemon). The Aligotés are sharp and lemony, as usual, with a good length in the mouth.
White wines
In 2018, the aromatic complexity of white wines is incredible. They are explosive on the nose, with an astonishing diversity that reflects each terroir. The wines have a certain freshness and good minerality. On the palate, they are round and generous, balanced with a nice tension.
Regarding white Burgundy, 2018 was another atypical early harvest. Since 2000, there have been six vintages where some grapes were harvested in August, but 2018 might be the earliest. I don't know of any vintage other than this one where the grapes were harvested before August 24th. Often the determining factor for harvest date is early flowering due to a warm winter, sometimes intense heat (2003 for example), and sometimes it is a combination of both. Just because it’s very hot doesn’t mean it will be an early harvest. Vines will stop photosynthesis due to water stress if there is no rain and water tables are so low that they cannot absorb water from underground (the case for 2019 until here). In 2018 you have the combination of very warm temperatures in January and some periods of warm weather during the growing season but enough rain for the vines to ripen, which led to an exceptionally early harvest.
2018 will have many surprises and quality levels ranging from good to exceptional. During my visit in early June, I was amazed to taste all the wines, which were very forward due to the malolactic fermentations being finished. Many of the malolactic fermentations were finished not long after fermentation because there was very little malic acid. The abundance of tartaric acid will make for very lovely wines with great balance. Since there was only one rainstorm between August 24 and September 6, most of the growers had finished harvest in the Côte de Beaune. There were 23 mm (0.9 in) on September 6 and nothing more until September 23, which led to one of the most successful vintage in the Côte de Nuits since 2005.
Pricing is very stable with some tiny increases. However, most of the prices remained the same. The crop levels were huge, so bulk wine prices should be stable. Without any frost in 2017 and with good crop levels in 2018, prices should stay steady. The days of prices going up then down seem to be over as far as Burgundy is concerned.
Finally, to preview the red wines, with perfect conditions and since the growers waited until the beginning of September
to harvest, there are some incredible red wines in 2018. One way to gauge this quality is that the lower level Bourgogne Rouge wines are rich, full-bodied, super ripe, and powerful. This is going to be a joy to sell. There were some problems with overproduction, so some of the red wines will not have the power of others, and some growers who waited too long
to pick will have some crazy overly ripe and alcoholic wines. I heard that there were many wines that had trouble finishing fermentations once they surpassed 15%. I will be looking forward to tasting the red wines and seeing how they have turned out during my trip in November.
CHAMPAGNE: With record rainfall in winter, many hours of sunshine in spring and summer and the earliest harvest on record, the 2018 harvest in Champagne was truly unique. Its prematurity, abundant volume, ripeness and wholesomeness have left many growers singing its praises to the harvest. After a wet winter, budburst took place in April, from which time growth was accelerated. The exceptional conditions led to vigorous vegetative growth and an abundance of healthy clusters. The hot summer continued throughout July and August, and the harvest officially began on August 20 (although the first grapes were picked on August 17 by André Beaufort in Ambonnay – the earliest harvest never recorded). An average of 12,361 kg/ha was produced, but the agronomic yield was actually much higher, varying widely between 16,000 and 19,000 kg/ha. Wineries throughout the region were packed, with the biggest challenge for most producers being finding containers for all the wines. Therefore, the 2018 harvest was also used to replace less impressive wines in the reserves, which was particularly welcome due to the disastrous results of 2017. Even though it was an extraordinary year for the winemaker and winemaker, the jury still didn't take into account its quality. The wines are perfectly clean and mellow but particularly low in acidity (average total acidity 5.9 g/l), giving them a distinct sweetness. However, some producers (like Louis Roederer) have been able to produce wines with commendably low pHs (an average of 2.8 for Roederer) and these wines certainly do not lack dynamism or liveliness.
Seamless season of heavenly hangtime and phenomenal phenolic development
February saw abundant rains, followed by lots of filtered light in spring and early summer. Both bud break and flowering occurred a bit late, but under ideal weather conditions, creating plentiful and even fruit set. Summer brought generous sun during the day and cooler marine influences, virtually uninterrupted by major heat spikes. The relatively mild summer followed by extended fall sunshine and moderate heat created near-ideal conditions for winemakers to allow their fruit to accumulate flavor complexity with gradual increases in sugar levels. Volume is looking great, up 20-30% increase over average crop quantity.
AUSTRALIA: Very promising quality with the most optimistic reviewers declaring 2018 great in every region and for every variety. The more cautious view is that early frosts reduced yields, but that consistent good weather throughout the second half of the growing season actually resulted in great potential.
Barossa 2018 vintage to savor
The 2018 Barossa vintage was completed at the end of April 2018, with growers and winemakers satisfied with a high quality vintage and good yields.
“The flavors and colors of the reds are wonderful, and the natural acids in the Eden Valley whites surprisingly high, with early varieties this year including Riesling, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Grenache and Cabernet,” said Louisa Rose, head of winemaking at Yalumba.
The growing season is off to a good start, with winter 2017 precipitation about 10% above average. However, spring rainfall was only 78% of average in the Barossa Valley (BV) and 98% in the Eden Valley (EV), and December rainfall was only 57%. % of average in BV (88% in EV).
Drier soils, combined with warmer than average days in October and November (October 2ºC above average in VB (1.8ºC in EV) and November 1.1ºC above average in BV (1.6 ºC in EV), allowed the vine canopies to grow quickly, to flower well and to form a good number of clusters.
January and February were hot and dry, with very hot temperatures in February slowing the rate of ripening. January was slightly above average (1.4°C during the day but closer to average at night) and February was about average during the day, but with nighttime temperatures significantly warmer than average. average in the Barossa Valley (5.8°C warmer).
With summer rainfall at 50% of average, growers with access to water, soil moisture monitoring, good irrigation management and healthy soils experienced less stress – and subsequently delivered healthy fruit and consistent yields.
The Indian summer of March and early April was “the icing on the cake”, with average temperatures, without extremes, perfect for ending the vintage. The 28-30mm of rain on April 14-15 did not cause any major problems for picking – and was a welcome post-harvest watering for most Barossa growers.
Overall, in 2018, Barossa Valley crushed 56,970 tonnes*, down 22% from the 2017 vintage, but 9% from the five-year average. In 2018, Eden Valley crushed 11,593 tonnes*, down 3% compared to 2017.
The total Barossa crush of 68,563 tonnes* represented 9% of the total volume and 25% of the total crush value in South Australia.
Average prices for Barossa Valley varieties remained stable in 2018, with Shiraz at $2252 per tonne, down 1% from last year. At Eden Valley, the average price of Shiraz increased by 11% to $2636 per tonne and Cabernet Sauvignon increased by 15% to $2354.
*Wine Australia estimates the response rate for wine grape crush in South Africa to be 85%, so the actual total Barossa crush is estimated at between 75,000 and 80,000 tonnes.
ITALY 2018 - Evaluation Report
After the gloom of 2017, 2018 saw Italy bounce back, with abundant and healthy harvests in all major wine regions. The total harvest increased by 24% compared to the annus horribilis of 2017, which corresponds to an average year. Typically, picking began about a week later than the exceptionally early 2017 harvest.
Trentino-Alto Adige: 2018 saw a 23% increase in volume compared to the 2017 harvest. Heavy rains at the end of August threatened to compromise the harvest, but a return to warmer weather has allowed to produce healthy grapes. In Mezzacorona in Trentino, the reports from 2018 are extremely positive. Volumes are up 10% compared to average and even more compared to the two previous vintages. Budding took place two weeks later than usual, which made it possible to avoid the risk of spring frosts, which, together with balanced precipitation and continued warm and sunny weather, made it possible to create conditions ideal for a successful harvest. Picking began in mid-August with Chardonnay for Rotari wines and early indications of quality are good, with fresh, aromatic whites and elegant, well-balanced reds expected.
Veneto: After near-perfect conditions during the 2018 growing season, Prosecco producers are hailing this harvest as one of the best ever, certainly in terms of size, with Canevel reporting a ten percent increase in volume compared to 2017. A hot summer followed by a cooler period with some rain in the weeks preceding the harvest allowed the grapes to develop good levels of concentration and acidity. In Masi, volumes returned to average levels after the short 2017 harvest, increasing by ten percent compared to the previous year. The spring was warm and sunny, interspersed with periods of abundant rain, promoting good growth. In total, the precipitation was not higher than the seasonal average and the sparse clusters, due to poor flowering, allowed air to circulate freely around the grapes, which helped avoid the risk of mold. Quality is expected to be particularly high for Amarone from the Valpolicella region as cool, dry weather in September and October provided the ideal conditions for the grape drying process, while Soave also saw an average crop of healthy grapes harvested.
Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Friuli experienced a good harvest, with volumes up sharply compared to 2017. Record temperatures at the start of August accelerated the harvest and provided perfect conditions for picking ripe grapes and healthy. Masi began harvesting Pinot Grigio and Verduzzo on August 16 and completed picking Merlot and Refosco during the last week of September, recording a 15% increase in size compared to 2017.
Piedmont: Piedmont had an extremely successful 2018, with volumes up 35% compared to the previous year. The harvest has been a success across the region, with Barbera and Nebbiolo all looking good as well as the increasingly prominent Cortese.
Tuscany and Umbria: Chianti Classico was able to report an extremely successful vintage, with a regular growing season and no extreme weather events leading to a good harvest of healthy and ripe but fresh grapes. Antinori reports that the season passed without excessive heat and with enough rain to encourage plant growth. The harvest size was more normal following the shortages of 2017 and the wines themselves are elegant, with silky tannins, rather than large and powerful as they were in 2017. Bolgheri experienced wet conditions which presented a risk of mildew, which always required careful work in the vineyard.
Marche & Abruzzo: In Matelica, Bisci recorded a slight increase in production. A cold winter was followed by an average spring. The summer was relatively hot, but the extreme heat of 2017 was not felt and precipitation increased compared to the previous year, which helped avoid stress on the vines. The result was a good harvest of ripe and healthy grapes. To the south, in the Montepulciano country, La Valentina experienced a steady winter, with frequent spring and summer rainstorms in Montalcino being just as problematic, with a greater proportion of the crop lost to disease. Umbria saw a 40% increase in volume compared to the previous vintage
After an extended drought, rain finally came to the Douro in spring 2018 in such quantities that there was some damaging erosion. Following that, summer was hot, and yields were consequently low, but the classic varieties thrived in the heat, producing deep, intense, fragrant wines.
The 2018 Single Quinta Vintage Ports are the result of a rollercoaster growing season – with a prolonged winter drought, a deluge in spring, and heatwaves through the final ripening period. Despite the challenges, the 2018 wines are characterised by a well-defined acidity and marked freshness, reflecting the characteristics of specific parcels of vineyard within each estate. The star of the year was the late-maturing Touriga Franca, which excelled in the warm harvest, allowing each estate’s signature aromas to flourish.
SPAIN VINTAGE REPORT 2018
Wines from Spain has released its 2018 vintage report detailing the performance of each region, with most reporting a return to average yields following a challenging 2017 harvest, which saw widespread drought and heatwaves impact production.
“After several dry, hot vintages this year the rain came to Spain and in some regions the rainy spell lasted until early summer,” the report said. ” It was also a much cooler year with more gradual vine development and one where intense work in the vineyard was often necessary to keep yields in check and vineyard diseases at bay.
“The harvest began later and, with the benefit of fine weather in most of the country, picking took place steadily and well into the autumn. Yields were far more generous than last year and this should leave Spain in a strong competitive position.”
In brief:
– Weather: a cooler year with far more rain; fine harvest weather for most regions.
– Regional highlights: a far better year for Ribera del Duero, Bierzo, most areas of Castilla y
Leén and Valdeorras. Record crops for Campo de Borja and Monterrei and more
generous for Rioja and Carifiena.
– Wine character: fresher wines with moderate alcohol levels and strong varietal character.
Wine of Spain estimates a harvest yield of 48 million hl (source: OEMV), compared with the 36-38 million hl that was reported in 2017.
VINTAGE REPORTS FROM / AUSTRIA 2018: the vintage – fully ripe and abundant! / This year’s harvest – the earliest on record – will exceed the previous year’s volume, with the most recent data from Statistik Austria estimating around 3.2 million hectoliters! Winegrowers are certainly pleased with the fine quality of the grapes, most of which could be harvested this year without much worry about potential diseases. This factor also made it possible to grant a national increase in the maximum yield per hectare of twenty percent authorized, so that the estates could at least partially compensate for their harvest losses compared to the 2017 vintage. More modest harvests were sometimes recorded locally, where there was extreme drought – as in Lower Austria – or excessive precipitation as in the Südsteiermark.
2018: the weather
After a very warm January, the cold conditions of February and March meant that the vines budded later than usual, so that, unlike the previous two years, no damage was suffered by the late frosts. The second warmest spring since 1767 then allowed the growing cycle to catch up with the calendar. One of the earliest blooms on record was at the end of May in most wine regions; This advance of vegetation persisted, even during the hot summer. While the hot June still brought moderate precipitation, a hot July was characterized by scorching intervals and severe drought – the Weinviertel in particular suffered from this. Irrigation – where possible – and other viticultural techniques were urgently implemented to protect young, shallow-rooted vineyards from extreme stress. In August, the harvest was already underway; An influx of cold air at the end of the month ultimately made the grape material fresher, although thunderstorms and heavy rains provided unpleasant side effects and sometimes interrupted picking. A mild, sunny and above all dry September allowed the harvest to be concluded, which ended almost everywhere at the beginning of October. Thus, the winegrowers were not able to spend the often warmer than average October days outside, but instead found themselves in the cellars taking care of the vinification of this good vintage.
BURGERLAND:
From one point of view, the producers are very satisfied with the harvest volume above average by around plus ten percent, and on the other hand with the excellent quality of the grapes. Although the negative weather conditions of the past two years have not been repeated for the most part, in some cases great aridity and Zweigelt wilting have led to worry lines on growers' faces and extra work in the vineyards and cellars.
The exceptionally early harvest meant that the first finished Qualitätswein had already been submitted to the Federal Tasting Authority for approval on August 2 (!). The early start of the harvest had the advantage in northern Burgenland that the September rainfall only affected a small proportion of the grapes. By the end of the month, winegrowers had mostly finished harvesting, although there were still some grapes in the vineyards, especially around Lake Neusiedl – this year they are expecting Eiswein and a few Strohwein.
Also in Mittelburgenland, the clusters of small-fruited and loose Blaufränkisch were perfectly ripe and healthy thanks to proper vine work. If the previous vintage was described as a “picture book vintage,” then the current year can be seen in a similar light.
All in all, it is a fabulous vintage with fruity, typical and varied wines with a concentrated and elegant body! The characteristics that make white wines enjoyable are already true for young reds: ripe, balanced acidity supports the fruit, while the moderate alcohol content means pleasant drinking.
Australia / Barossa Valley: The Barossa 2018 vintage ended at the end of April 2018, with viticulturists and winemakers satisfied with a vintage of high quality and good yields.
“The flavors and colors of the reds are wonderful, and the natural acids in the Eden Valley whites surprisingly high, with early varieties this year including Riesling, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Grenache and Cabernet,” said Louisa Rose, head of winemaking at Yalumba.
The growing season is off to a good start, with winter 2017 precipitation about 10% above average. However, spring rainfall was only 78% of average in the Barossa Valley (BV) and 98% in the Eden Valley (EV), and December rainfall was only 57%. % of average in BV (88% in EV).
Drier soils, combined with warmer than average days in October and November (October 2ºC above average in VB (1.8ºC in EV) and November 1.1ºC above average in BV (1.6 ºC in EV), allowed the vine canopies to grow quickly, to flower well and to form a good number of clusters.
January and February were hot and dry, with very hot temperatures in February slowing the rate of ripening. January was slightly above average (1.4°C during the day but closer to average at night) and February was about average during the day, but with nighttime temperatures significantly warmer than average. average in the Barossa Valley (5.8°C warmer).
With summer rainfall at 50% of average, growers with access to water, soil moisture monitoring, good irrigation management and healthy soils experienced less stress – and subsequently delivered healthy fruit and consistent yields.
The Indian summer of March and early April was “the icing on the cake”, with average temperatures, without extremes, perfect for ending the vintage. The 28-30mm of rain on April 14-15 did not cause any major problems for picking – and was a welcome post-harvest watering for most Barossa growers.
Overall, in 2018, Barossa Valley crushed 56,970 tonnes*, down 22% from the 2017 vintage, but 9% from the five-year average. In 2018, Eden Valley crushed 11,593 tonnes*, down 3% compared to 2017.
The total Barossa crush of 68,563 tonnes* represented 9% of the total volume and 25% of the total crush value in South Australia.
Average prices for Barossa Valley varieties remained stable in 2018, with Shiraz at $2252 per tonne, down 1% from last year. At Eden Valley, the average price of Shiraz increased by 11% to $2636 per tonne and Cabernet Sauvignon increased by 15% to $2354.
*Wine Australia estimates the response rate for wine grape crush in South Africa to be 85%, so the actual total Barossa crush is estimated at between 75,000 and 80,000 tonnes.
DOURO 2018 HARVEST REPORT / THE END OF THE LONGEST DROUGHT
We assumed we would return to a normal year after the driest growing season on record in 2017, but we were wrong and the long drought continued until March 2018. The Douro had endured 20 consecutive months with precipitation well below average.
Our plea to the weather gods was clearly overdone, as the nearly two-year “seca” ended abruptly with heavy rains in March, April and May. These incredibly wet months delivered more than double the normal rainfall and culminated in a major storm on the evening of Monday, May 28. In the Pinhão region, 90 mm of rain fell in less than 2 hours, with localized but devastating hail. No soil can absorb this amount of water, especially our steep hillside vineyards, and erosion has caused serious damage. Incredibly, the olive trees were scarred by stones thrown at them by the gushing water as it flowed down the river. This major gale was heartbreaking, and the wise old Douro caseiros (vineyard foremen) shook their heads in despair.
Heavy spring rains are always a challenge as we go through delicate budbreak and subsequent flowering, and inevitably this watery spring has led to substantial losses. Work in the vines was intense and costly this year and farmers who were a few hours late in their treatments lost their entire harvest. It is impossible to ignore the fact that 16,890 Douro farmers own less than 2 hectares of vines each and yet they represent 23% of the region's vineyards. Most of these small farms are notoriously under-equipped and their future is increasingly uncertain as their children flock to the cities to find easier work.
Bud break was three weeks later than normal due to the wet and cool spring and the pintor (the painter) arrived two weeks later than average. Finally, a more normal weather pattern emerged in July with average temperatures and no relevant precipitation. The vineyards that survived the strange and difficult entry into the final furlong were magnificent throughout a hot August, clearly benefiting from good moisture in the soil.
The essential long-term weather forecast (unavailable to our ancestors) predicted good weather until October, which turned out to be completely accurate, allowing plenty of time for the grapes to reach full maturity. We now felt that we had truly deserved a quiet and pleasant harvest; September was a little warmer than we would have liked, with the monthly average 3.4°C above normal, but beautiful blue skies persisted throughout. The hot days caused grape ripening to progress faster than expected and cooling of the musts in the lagares was almost always necessary for each ferment.
Yields were absurdly low in 2018, with many of our vineyards producing 40% less than average. There are few that are less than 25% down from the norm. It was the second year in a row with dramatically low production and there was a desperate rush for grapes, especially those with few vineyards. Prices of Douro wine grapes have soared, which is probably a very good thing, certainly for farmers who have had a torrid few years. Hopefully the higher cost of grapes will correct the ridiculously low retail prices of some Douro wines that are seriously harming the future of our region, putting us on equal footing with low-cost, high-yielding flat vineyards of the world.
Despite (and partly because of) the incredibly low yields, we made excellent Port and Douro wines in 2018. La Touriga Franca was particularly good, having clearly enjoyed the warm final maturation period, and delivered wonderful color and particularly lifted aromas. The latter is not a normal characteristic of Franca, but it will be very noticeable in our wines this year.
It is somewhat ironic that the tens of thousands of tourists who have now discovered the unique charm of Porto as well as the extraordinary beauty of the Douro, are quickly drawing people into the hospitality industry, creating a serious labor shortage in the same vineyards that they admire so much. The Douro, the most difficult mountain vineyard in the world, is the last major wine region entirely hand-picked.
Germany Vintage Report:
This year's harvest produced truly exceptional qualities across the country. At the time of writing, many wine growers in Rhineland-Palatinate are still hoping for a successful icewine harvest, which was virtually non-existent last year, and have left grapes hanging on 532 hectares of vines for this noble specialty- gentle.
The German Wine Institute (DWI) has compiled the following report on the development of this year's vintage in the 13 German wine-growing regions.
Ahr: (561 ha)
The days of rain in the Ahr this summer could be counted on the fingers of one hand. Fortunately, there was abundant rainfall in January and February, which - at 120 l/m2 - replenished the water reserves. From mid-March, temperatures increased, leading to very early flowering of the vines from May 25. From then on, there was no more rain worth mentioning until September 23. However, the summer was not as hot as the comparable year of 2003; temperatures of 40° Celsius were not reached. The vines weathered the long summer drought better than expected – only a few vineyards with young vines required irrigation. The advantage of the very hot and dry conditions was the almost complete absence of diseases such as powdery mildew and peronospera. The Japanese cherry vinegar fly, especially feared by red wine producers, has not caused any damage either. Exceptionally healthy, albeit small, berries with must weights of 94 degrees Oechsle were harvested; Even levels of 120 degrees were not uncommon. The vines had produced a large harvest, so the yields of for example 90 hl/ha for Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) were higher than expected. Harvest occurred three weeks earlier than average, beginning in mid-August and ending on October 15. The vines have reached “a sugar content of unprecedented magnitude,” enthuses Reinhold Kurth of the Ahr Winegrowers’ Association. However, acidity levels were below normal. The total harvest volume is estimated at 55,000 hectoliters – in 2017, there were only 38,000 hectoliters.
Baden: (15,834 ha)
Baden is the warmest wine-growing region in Germany. Perhaps the vines there were better adapted to the extreme climatic conditions of last year, because flowering arrived earlier than ever after budburst – after only 30 days – starting on May 25 and therefore 14 days earlier than usual. Even April was the hottest on record, and that was not to remain the only record. The Siebenschläfertag of June 27 (lit.: Day of the Seven Sleepers) lived up to its name, initiating a new heat wave that lasted for more than seven weeks with temperatures near 40° Celsius. However, most vines withstood the drought well, producing a large crop of healthy berries that ripened quickly. Only the young vines needed irrigation because their roots were not yet long enough to reach the lower water tables. The picking began at the end of August and was peaceful and stress-free as there was almost no disease pressure. The estimated harvest volume of 1.55 million hectoliters - at an average of 90 to 95 hl/ha - is almost 30 percent higher than the long-term average. But the fact that the quality of the grapes was so high with such an above-average yield was, according to the Baden Winegrowers' Association, "never happened before." The wines are fruity, powerful and structured due to the high sugar content of the grapes, resulting in a more powerful vintage than the 2017s. But perhaps the icing on the cake is that in some vineyards the grapes might even be harvested for high quality sweet wines.
Franken: (6,139 ha)
Franken winemakers also witnessed early flowering and rapid ripening in a very hot and dry season. Isolated precipitation or storms were not enough to replenish water reserves in the soil. In some steep sites, the ground heated up to 60° Celsius. “Drip irrigation for young vines, which still need a few years for their roots to reach water, has become common practice – of course fine-tuned so as not to pamper them,” explains Hans Wirsching, winegrower from Iphofen. This means a lot of work because many kilometers of tubes have to be laid. A vine receives up to 40 liters of water over several hours, applied very precisely to avoid losses by evaporation.
Mosel: (8,870 ha)
When grapes look picture-perfect at harvest time, hopes are high for excellent wines. Such was the case in the Mosel 2018 – but that was not all. Volume estimates of approx. one million hectolitres were also very satisfying, especially as there had been roughly a third less the previous year. But until that happy end, drought and heat as well as the fear of hailstorms and heavy rain had kept growers on tenterhooks. There was indeed some rain and the odd thunderstorm in the Middle Mosel but the number one topic everywhere was above all the drought. As in the other regions, vine development was well ahead of the average and picking started as early as August for the early-ripening varieties and mid-September for Riesling. Healthy grapes, which really hung picture-perfect on the vine, filled growers with joyous anticipation. The rain in September, which thanks to the cool nights did not lead to rot, increased the juice yield and contributed to the also remarkable harvest volumes. With must weights which - in the case of Riesling ´s average of 85 degrees Oechsle - lay in the Spätlese range, the Mosel wines of 2018 are characterized by their rich aroma, harmonious structure with moderate acidity levels and elegant, juicy fruitiness. The vintage offers a wide spectrum for the wine lover, from very promising sparkling base wines to fabulous Beeren- and Trockenbeerenauslese wines. In the words of Pünderich winegrower Matthias Lay: “With the 2018 vintage, the good Lord has been very kind to us.”
Nahe: (4,225 ha)
In 2018 the grapes in the Nahe were ripe sooner than usual and the harvest had already begun at the end of August. However especially for the high-quality wines, some growers delayed picking the later-ripening varieties until October in order to promote grape phenolic maturity. This was made possible by the very hot and dry summer with optimal autumn weather – a “super summer” was how Winegrowers´ Association president Thomas Höfer described it. The wait was also possible because problems such as rot, mildew or animal pests were virtually non-existent. Perfectly ripe and completely healthy grapes with must weights that not infrequently reached 100 degrees Oechsle were the reward and basis for excellent wines. They very nicely reflect the diverse and typical terroir of the Nahe region. With must volumes of 440,000 hectolitres, the crop came in at 40 percent above the long-term average. An excellent and long-awaited compensation for the two previous, much smaller harvests of 2017 and 2016. For Winegrowers´ Association president it was: “An absolutely exceptional year”. Such exceptions the wine lover will be sure to value.
Pfalz: (23,652 ha)
When the going is good, it is very, very good. This saying fits the 2018 vintage in the Pfalz. Hardly any damage despite extreme summer temperatures and drought, almost no water catastrophes, perfectly healthy grape material in abundant quantities, fantastic harvest weather with noble-sweet nectars as the crowning achievement. It can hardly get better. It is therefore no surprise that the representatives of the Winegrowers´ Association were nothing short of euphoric. “Unique” or “almost too good to be true”, was the verdict even of the experts. The record-breaking warm weather period had already begun in April, leading to an early flowering of Riesling at the end of May. In this merry month there was also quite a bit of rain but unfortunately also some hail in the south of the region. The true heatwave then came in July and August. Picking for the first Federweißer (a partially-fermented, yeasty grape speciality) had already begun in August, with the main harvest following two weeks later and thus earlier than ever before. September recorded ideal, largely dry and settled weather conditions, with especially the red varieties profiting from the extended hang time to give intensely-coloured, full-bodied wines, not only in the case of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). The white wines have moderate acidity, while the alcohol levels also remained relatively moderate – surprising even for many growers given the amount of sunshine. Growers are delighted with the estimated yield of 2.5 million hectolitres, 17 percent above the long-term average. After years of small harvests it feels so good”, explains Winegrowers´ Association president Reinhold Hörner, “when we can once again meet the demands of the market with no limitations”.
Rheingau: (3,191 ha)
With the onset of “golden October” in the Rheingau, many winegrowers had just about finished picking. This year they had begun four weeks earlier than usual thanks to the hot summer 2018, which did not quite reach the highs of 2003 but nonetheless beat previous records of the last century of 1947, 1994 and 1976. The drought, which incidentally caused relatively few problems in most vineyards, prevented infestations from fungus diseases and the dreaded cherry vinegar fly. “It was simply too hot for the pests,“ explains viticultural consultant Berthold Fuchs. Extensive irrigation support was however necessary for the young vines. Indeed drought-stress posed the greatest threat for wine quality but the vines still produced an abundant number of clusters, resulting in a large harvest volume estimated at 285,000 hectolitres compared with 210,000 hectolitres the previous year. Fortunately the quantity of the 2018 vintage also kept pace with the quality, which is excellent thanks to the perfect health and maturity of the grapes. “An outstanding vintage”, said viticultural consultant Berthold Fuchs. This applies not only to Riesling but also to the region´s Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), which is proving to be particularly intensely-coloured and concentrated.
Rheinhessen: (26, 617 ha)
90° Oechsle for the first Federweißer already on 6 August? That had never happened before in Germany´s largest wine region. A very early flowering thanks to the warmest April on record led to expectations of an early harvest. However the hot and dry, sunny summer served as an additional ripening accelerator. The very favourable, settled weather conditions continued into the harvest, allowing many grapes to stay on the vine right up to October and partly even to November. Of course the drought did present major challenges for growers in some locations and the steeper vineyards especially had to be partly irrigated. However, the Rheinhessen growers were overall pleasantly surprised with the performance of their vines. The harvest volume estimated at 2.95 million hectolitres is almost 20 percent higher than the long-term average. A growing season like 2018 is ideal especially for red wines because the grapes changed colour very early and benefitted from the extended hang time. But also the 2018 white wines in Rheinhessen will be rich in aromas, varietally typical and fruity with moderate acidity levels. Numerous noble-sweet specialities are also available. In view of the Rheinhessen Weinwirtschaftsrat (trade advisory body): “This great vintage was unexpected but will be remembered for a long time”. Wine lovers can already look forward to the results.
Saale-Unstrut: (772 ha)
This year a few winegrowers in Saale and Unstrut harvested twice – namely ice wine grapes from the 2017 growing season in the night of 5 – 6 February and then – already in August - the first grapes from the 2018 vintage. Never before had picking begun so soon in Germany´s northernmost wine region. The reason for this was the summer, which started early in April: “The vineyards experienced almost no spring,” reports the Saale-Unstrut Winegrowers´ Association. The high temperatures gave an almost explosive boost to vine development with a picture-perfect flowering at the end of May – such an early date was last seen in 2007. Fortunately, there was also some rain in May but still the drought was the main topic, which kept the growers on their toes throughout the summer months. It will “play a big role in future”, the Winegrower´s Association is convinced. Sunburn, drought stress and undersized berries were the main threats to wine quality, whereas this year fungus pressure and pests were virtually non-existent, which kept the work in the vineyard at a manageable level. The main harvest was finished in the first weeks of October. The forecasted 46,000 hectolitres are only slightly above last year´s figures (44,000 hl) and those of past years. But for that the quality of the wines is expected to be outstanding, with the Growers´ Association predicting substantial, aromatic white wines and powerful reds
Sachsen: (497 ha)
This year even in Sachsen almost all the area under vine had been harvested by the beginning of October, the exception being a number of Traminer and Riesling sites which were still waiting for Auslese must weights. For the growers, the summer was partly very labour-intensive as many vineyards had to be irrigated, not least because of the wealth of steep sites within the region. At an estimated 56.5 hectolitres, the yield was on average the second highest since 2000. According to the latest estimates, approx. 22,500 hectolitres of must were obtained, 7 percent more than the average of the last ten years. However, even at these levels Sachsen wines are still a rarity when compared with other regions. Because the grapes were smaller than usual due to the drought in the autumn, the juice was more concentrated, which accounted for the correspondingly good must weights. And the principle “quality over quantity” is the rule in Sachsen anyway. “Wines with a marked fruitiness are to be expected. This year will be remembered for a long time,” is the view in Sachsen winegrower circles. Moreover, by Sachsen standards the wines will be relatively powerful. Winegrowers on the Elbe have already reacted to climate change and are cultivating new varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. In 2018 not only these will show their true potential.
Württemberg: (11,360 ha)
High must weights are not a problem for regions like Wurttemberg where red wine accounts for almost 70 percent of the production – after all red wines may have a little more power. One can therefore look all the more forward to the 2018 vintage. Healthy red grapes with must weights often above 100 degrees Oechsle were harvested unusually early but without any haste or stress, resulting in richly aromatic, deeply-fruited wines with an excellent structure. Only the white varieties had to be picked relatively quickly. 80 percent of the wines fall into the “Prädikat” (ie. superior) category, even Beerenaulese grapes with must weights of around 250 degrees Oechsle were harvested. Hardly any drought damage was reported as fortunately there had been two good falls of rain, however the Ludwigsburg area also had some hail. Hermann Hohl, president of the Württemberg Winegrowers´ Association, was “completely satisfied” with the vintage. The ideal harvest weather allowed everyone to relax. The growers did not have to “chase after every last degree of Oechsle”, he said. Volume estimates of 1.2 million hectolitres represent a welcome increase on last year´s figures. “The consumer can look forward to top qualities at affordable prices,” the Association announced.
RHÔNE VINTAGE REPORT 2018 – an unexpected annus mirabilis!
Who would have predicted that this 2018 vintage would bring so much joy and would rank among the remarkable vintages of the Rhône Valley that have followed one another since 2015? The year produced a certain originality, mainly the wines of Saint-Joseph, Côte-Rôtie and Ermitages, whose flawless maturation offers an ode to Syrah.
At the start of 2018, we prepared for the vagaries of the year's weather, convinced that the series of good vintages would be broken.
So we prepared ourselves for the vagaries of nature during the wine season and put in hard work until the end... In the end, an understatement, because again and again we really had to dig our heels in .
Start of winter... The rain arrived just in time to replenish the water reserves depleted in 2017. It brought relative mildness for a month of January and set a new tone – with 110mm already recorded. ..
The Méal plot was pruned on January 18, followed by other sectors and pruning. At this time of year, we typically explore the bare hillsides to identify walls that need rebuilding, water runs that need maintenance, and vine stakes that need changing. This gives us enough time to decide on future planting projects, schedule the removal of old terraced vines and prepare the slope for the next generation: transmission.
Last February arrived and temperatures became wintery, falling to -8°C in Tain l’Hermitage.
Spring on the horizon, things started... Slowly: growth seemed impassive and spring dragged its feet. And it rained, oh how it rained... more than 130 mm fell in March.
From north to south, plans to plant vines are progressing somewhat, and here and there in the northern Rhône, we see holes in the middle of the greenery... Planting was underway.
In our domain of Saint-Étienne in Montfrin, in the Côtes du Rhône, the first little spring flowers were already blooming, the ladybugs are starting to court their partners and we can see the first saps gushing from the vines.
In Ampuis, the work on the slope of the Neve is coming to an end and it is time to lay the last stones in the walls which will stand there for a century, like the imprint of the passage.
In mid-April, the bud was well underway on Greffieux (Ermitage), and the first leaves appeared with a temperature above average, a daily record of 30°C! And then, with a roll of drums, the vegetation flew away. Heat, water, what more could you ask for? The vines swirled in a frenzy, taking on their splendid mantles of green leaves.
In the “North” we were in a mad rush to start green work. Under the pouring rain, we can glimpse spring finally unfolding with the first poppies coloring the green plots. From then on, the pace accelerated.
On May 8, the inflorescence was visible to the naked eye, but we have to wait a few weeks (May 27) to be able to capture the scent of the sweet pollen exalting the vine flower in Méal and Murets (De l'Orée) . The corks remain and will have difficulty falling from the berries... But this had no impact on this vintage. The storms returned on May 30 and led to a fall of flowers, affecting the Syrah grapes in the plains of Crozes Hermitage.
Meanwhile, in the south... At the beginning of June we have to tackle the downy mildew that resulted from the spring rains in the early maturing plots – already more than 600 mm of rain in the middle of the year. The initial appearance of downy mildew went almost unnoticed because it was already on the cluster, almost as big as peas at this stage. It was a quick attack that left the quality of the berries unscathed, but will reduce the quantity of grapes. We had all hands on deck trying to control the fungus, hoping that the Mistral – conspicuous by its absence until now – would start to blow.
We missed our planting schedule because of the rains. But luckily, the stored rain proved invaluable for getting through the summer...
Summer... In Valliguières (Domaine Roc Folassière), we noticed a few spots of flowers falling on the Grenache in mid-June, but the vegetation had completely recovered from last year's frosty period and the plots were flourishing.
At the beginning of July in Saint-Barthélémy-de-Vals (La Combe Pilate), the vegetation did not stop growing and the trimmings followed row after row. The water has proven to be more than beneficial. The Viognier clusters developed well, announcing a good harvest.
Who would have thought that given the intense heat, ripening would take so long? We tasted the grapes, realising that initial impressions and berry colour could be deceptive, as the grape pulp was taking its time. Fortunately, the whites, protected by their hardening skins, maintained their acidity levels. Decision time was upon us!
This year, we started with Méal, at dawn on 23 August. The crew met at the top of the hill for cutting instructions to bring in the first Marsannes. We took our time, allowing the sun to rise far beyond the Murets hills and shed its morning light on the slopes. The buckets filled up and the first baskets were brought out. Game on!
The rains set the grapes free and they started to come on well. Every new day the Taste sharpened, by which originates the characteristics of the upcoming wine. The tastings give a clear picture of fine tannins and good acidity levels in the reds, which will be crucial for age-worthy wines.
The Grenaches at Valliguières (Roc Folassière) are superb, and on the Agasse, the old vines already bore an exceptional fruit.
30 August, in Châteauneuf-du-Pape: the vegetation show no sign of stress despite the heat. The Grenaches are taking their time and ripening slowly. In the scorching heat, we have to be patient, no point in hurrying.
In the meantime, we begin to harvest roussannes at Saint-Étienne Estate in Montfrin. The reds will follow a few days later. The berries had ripened while maintaining acidity and it looks luscious, thanks to the water reserve in the clay under the pebbles.
31 August, at Esteban (Combe Pilate): a final tour of the vineyard as the picking team rolls in. We begin picking Viogniers for this atypical sparkling.
On the granite slopes of the Bessards, the pace starts to pick up, everything speeds up under the persistent heat, and when we need to move, there will be no time to lose if we want to avoid the overripeness.
The last tour on Condrieu slopes for a progress report of Viogniers. We were surprised by the freshness brought by lemony notes of cardamom. Then, on 4 September, without a doubt, Chery was harvested.
At Ampuis, on the Côte-Rôtie, the skins ripened and they are almost ready. With the help of the heat, the pulp is bringing out more intense colour. As the weather hold up… with more sunshine to come, we decide to put off a few more days to achieve the optimum… the excellence.
5 september on the Ermitage, the Marsannes of De l’Orée on the Murets hill were collected… They have beautiful golden skin with good acidity in the pulp that we want to preserve to keep the balance.
The day that made a tremendous success of the 2018 vintage: 6 September.
10mm of rainfall after a succession of scorching days, and more days in the cards, the rain set everything off. Now we had to get moving or we would miss out on the vintage and that bellyful of sunshine; the daytime temperature reached and sometime rose above 30°C daily. However, biodynamics were clearly on our side, helping keep the overall balance of the plants and the fruit.
7 September: we harvested the white Granits on the Saint-Joseph slope while keeping a very close eye on the progression of ripeness as temperatures start to soar. So, day in day out, the pickers keep pace with the sun collecting the berries before it is too hot to preserve the mineral expression of the wines.
Report by M.Chapoutier
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